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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello All,

I'm a brand new owner of a 2005 CO Elise. It came in on a truck from Chicago to Charlotte on Saturday (took delivery 9 days to get here). To my surprise, and my luck 5 miles into the drive with my wife the car already has issues, check this out:

Issue: Car was completely warmed up (had idled awhile prior to start of short trip), and we had turned around to head back home. Car had been driving perfect for the beginning of the drive, but then I decided on the on ramp to hit the second cam to see how the car felt. At 6.5k rpms the second cam hit but then the car stuttered like it was out of gas. I lifted and hit the throttle again, it pulled for a bit then cut fuel again. It did this over and over again until I was down to around 40 mph on the highway. I then started just blipping the throttle quickly to keep the car moving as any holding of the throttle would cause the car to cut fuel or whatever it's doing. Get to a stop light and the car dies, but I'm able to fire it up right away and blip the throttle obnoxiously all the way home where. Current state is still the same, won't hold idle without blipping the throttle.

Some background on the car: 66k mile, single owner who I'm told was an older gentlemen who let the car sit for years. Dealership that sold it claims they drove it 4 hours to receive it without any issues. Was on a truck for 9 days with most of the days driving through pouring rain.

What I've done so far (excuse my terminology, still learning this platform):
  • Checked codes, none present or shadow
  • Replaced TPS
  • Checked lift solenoid by applying 12v, heard click
  • Checked filter behind lift solenoid, looked clean
  • Removed valve cover, noticed light rust on the camshafts. Have yet to remove the lift bolts. It appears maybe its locked in second cam?
  • Checked camshafts to wiping
  • Checked spark plugs, looked fine
  • Disconnected battery, but maybe not long enough to reset ECU
  • Checked fuses in front and in back, none blown
  • Sat in car and made vroom vroom noises wishing I was driving instead of already working on it
Conclusion: With the help of a forum member, we both think its possible that when the engine engaged the second cam that maybe the lift pin got stuck and is not disengaging. I can't find anyone that has had this problem before, and I find that nearly impossible or I should just start playing the lottery more often. Does anyone have any experience with this? I have videos and pictures etc that I can post.



~Anthony
 

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Check your lift bolts and intake cam for wear. How many miles?
 

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Are you getting any codes?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
No current codes or shadow codes. But I presume this is only because I was only about a mile or so from home when this occurred and since then its only idled for 30s to a min.
 

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I'm sending you this it may or may not help but will be tied up for a bit. OBDII code P2647
 

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Have you hooked up reader to see if you can see any past or present codes? That last link has similar symptoms as you are experiencing. I would check bolts and send video/photo of cams and maybe as others come on they might have suggestions. Looks like there are two solenoids involved and they can get garbage in them and are relatively easy to inspect. BTW rules of thumb is to wait at least ten minutes once your water temps up to normal operating temps before engaging second cam. You can explore all the cam wiping threads but overcooling is an achilles heel of the car and there are many approaches to dealing with it. Richard
 

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No. Wait at least 20-30 minutes after coolant is fully up to temp.
 

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That symptom will occur if you jump on cam 2 before water is 160 degrees. Even then, while the car will LET you, don't do it. Wait at least 10 minutes AFTER water temp hits 160
 

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Have you hooked up reader to see if you can see any past or present codes? That last link has similar symptoms as you are experiencing. I would check bolts and send video/photo of cams and maybe as others come on they might have suggestions. Looks like there are two solenoids involved and they can get garbage in them and are relatively easy to inspect. BTW rules of thumb is to wait at least ten minutes once your water temps up to normal operating temps before engaging second cam. You can explore all the cam wiping threads but overcooling is an achilles heel of the car and there are many approaches to dealing with it. Richard
He's stuck in second cam though not first, that doesn't seem like a normal failure for the typical causes like clogged filter or broken rockers. He sent me a slow-mo video and it looks like the rocker is following the high cam when cranking, so I can't think of what would cause that except for a siezed changeover pin unless I'm seeing something wrong in the video

@mm3boost post up the slo-mo video if you can
 

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No. Wait at least 20-30 minutes after coolant is fully up to temp.
That very much depends on the oil temp. If the car is set up properly you can reach 180 degrees oil temp in 15min from cold.
 
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did you take out the lift bolts and have a look at them when you checked the cams? They are right there after you take the valve cover off, and it would be easy to verify their condition to check off being the source of a problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Update

Yesterday I took the valve cover off again and checked the lift pin bolts, they were the revised ones and looked to be practically new. Then I put some dielectric grease on the coils and put the car back together. Attempted to start the car again and still the same issue but finally a CEL popped on which was p0123, bad TPS. Oddly enough I just had replaced that TPS so I checked the voltage to it and it was reading 4.3 volts at 0% throttle and 4.8v at 100% throttle, way off. So I put my original TPS back on and it read .56v at 0% throttle. When I fired it up on the original TPS the problem was gone, even though this was the same TPS the problem started with. Today if the sky isn't falling out again I'll try and get it fully warmed up and hit the high cam again to see if the problem is 'cured'.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Update

Drove the car for about an hour yesterday with no symptoms. Hit lift as often as I could, for science. Locked the car to go into a store and then had to google how to unlock it with the proper key orientation, classy Lotus. Guess I'm going to write this problem off as some sort of moisture condition from the car sitting on the truck for days in the rain, who knows. Even the CEL cleared after about 25 miles. Hope the issue doesn't come back far from home!

Thanks for all the help and suggestion guys, hoping to have many years of enjoyment with this car :).
 

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Glad that you were able to get past your lockout and stuck cam issue. I'm sure you'll be like I would be at this point and always wonder if you'll be revisited by gremlins but you've got a great handle on the understanding of what's going on. Now get out there and enjoy your new car! Richard
 

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Clearly your newly adopted car was testing you to see what sort of owner you were going to be, and you obviously passed ;) Well done and enjoy!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Your fuel pump could be dying.
He had a rough idle that smoothed out at higher rpm; a dying pump would be the opposite (smooth startup and idle while the rail still has pressure from priming and then struggle to keep up with higher rpm).
 

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Discussion Starter #20
So after about 200 miles of blissful driving the same problem came back today as I pulled into my neighborhood, thankfully. Throwing code p0123 for TPS. So I did some research and found that I should get the TPS from an 00-02 Toyota Tacoma and did that this time. Replaced the TPS but the issue still exists.
Right now with key on my TPS reads 11.8% and when I go full throttle it reads 75.3%.
Any ideas?
 

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