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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Is it true that you first have to remove the diffuser in order to expose the rear lift points before putting the car on a lift? Why do the Brits have to make everything difficult?
 

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Some brave souls only use the exposed four jacking points but you have to put weight up front to keep the car from tipping (ask one fast lotus!)

Yep to get to the two jacking points you need to remove the diffuser first. I put on the quick release, makes dropping the undertray and diffuser a 5-10 minute operation.

Chris
 

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Well there is two ways to 'lift' the Elise beyond removal of the diffuser panel so as to expose the rear lift points...using the points noted under the car (each site is marked) and using a four point lift, simply lift slightly since yes the car can 'teeter' on the rear lift points...if very close to ground (like 6" up) no big deal and just have someone slightly push on the front...but this technique is NOT for lifting way up for obvious reasons :rolleyes: But if you are willing to lift one side up at a time, simply place a floor jack at the rear lift site (one in front of the rear wheel opening not the on covered by the diffuser panel) (also I place a piece of 2x6" x 8" L piece of wood between jack and lift point) and jack up...one whole side of the car can be lifted that way. But yes to do a full four point lift to get car way up in the air the rear diffuser must be removed at access those intermal lift points.
 

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One other clever way that I read about for lifting the Elise involves two sets of ramps (like RhinoRamps). Use the single center lift point on one side to lift the side of the car. Insert a ramp under each of the tires on that side. Repeat for the other side. You may have to do it in stages if your ramps are tall. This could make getting under the car to remove the diffuser/undertray easier. Then you can do oil changes, etc. with the car setting on the ramps all the way around.

If you wanted to do wheel/suspension/brake work, you could then use the "real" jack points with jack stands to support the car.


Edit: When I attempted to do this, my jack slipped out from under the side of the car before it got high enough to clear the ramps. Others have successfully done it this way, but my car came crashing down to the ground. I suspect that those that can do it this way have the Sport Pack suspension, and the suspension doesn't droop as much as it does with the Standard suspension (like my car). The side to side angle required to get my car high enough put too much sideways load on the jack and resulted in it being pushed out from under the car.
 

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TimMullen said:
Use the single center lift point on one side to lift the side of the car. Insert a ramp under each of the tires on that side. Repeat for the other side.
That's a really clever idea.. obvious now that you describe it, but new to me.

Work that pulls the wheels can be done on half the car at a time anyway. Otherwise, the added height from lifting the wheels on ramps would be quite welcomed.

I see a second set of PepBoys Rhino ramps in my future..
 

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The problem with using the ramps is that they generally aren't very high if you want to get under the car.
 

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My method is based on wanting to have wheels off ground..so the ramps allow the clearance to access panels and what I am showing is to remove wheels and access panels... and this is the single jack methods in pic form>>>
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Sounds like in order to do it safely with a twin post/4 arm lift I will need to remove the diffuser first. The quick disconnects sound great.
No way I'm taking a chance with the two middle and two front jack points.
 

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ressurect old thread...

if i want to just take off the wheel, do i need to remove the rear diffuser? or just use the exposed 4 jack points stickers (2 front, 2 rear) to lift the car slightly off the ground as pictures above, then change the wheel?

thanks.
 

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gameson said:
ressurect old thread...

if i want to just take off the wheel, do i need to remove the rear diffuser? or just use the exposed 4 jack points stickers (2 front, 2 rear) to lift the car slightly off the ground as pictures above, then change the wheel?

thanks.
I've always used the exposed jack points to change a wheel. Anything else seems like overkill. Just make sure your jack is locked and in good working order. Use jack stands if you're wary of your jack giving way. But, in the time it takes to remove one wheel and stick another on, you should be safe.
 

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gameson said:
ressurect old thread...

if i want to just take off the wheel, do i need to remove the rear diffuser? or just use the exposed 4 jack points stickers (2 front, 2 rear) to lift the car slightly off the ground as pictures above, then change the wheel?

thanks.
Just use the centre lift point and do one side at a time.

Using a four point lift on the exposed jacking points could lead to a "qball incident" - and do you even want it to fall backwards at all???
 

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most likely i m going to use the floor jack, not lifting the car like qball. i watched discount tire place and they do lift it off the ground to replace tire, but the clearance from the ground is so minimal, it's not even over the head, enough to have the wheels hang in the air, so pretty close to the ground.
 

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gameson said:
most likely i m going to use the floor jack, not lifting the car like qball. i watched discount tire place and they do lift it off the ground to replace tire, but the clearance from the ground is so minimal, it's not even over the head, enough to have the wheels hang in the air, so pretty close to the ground.
Ask qball; if the tires are more than 2" off the ground, using only the exposed jack points on a 4-point lift can be hazardous to your baby's health. :eek:

For just taking a wheel off or changing to track wheels/tires, the floor jack method illustrated above is perfect -- and perfectly safe. (Er, don't forget to set the handbrake.)

For oil changes and under-car work, I have a KwikLift (http://www.kwiklift.com/features-all.htm) in my garage and love it! It's everything they say it is. No disappointment. When I purchased it, I picked it up from the trucking terminal in Denver with an S-10 P.U. truck, unloaded it at home and had it set up within an hour -- solo. Had it for five years and wouldn't live without it.
:clap:
 

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ringmeister said:
Why do the Brits have to make everything difficult?
You mean, "Why do the Brits have to add a flush aluminum sheet bottom to the car that contributes to better aerodynamics and less lift?"

xtn
 

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I'd always use a jackstand and place it right next to the lift point somewhere between the jack and where I plan to work at if I had to lift the side of the Elise using only a floor jack. I rather risk the damage to the chassis instead of my head.

I'll be doing this soon I plan to clean the air filter out and switch to a K&N, so rear driver's side tire must come off.
 
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