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Discussion Starter #1
I've noticed that my Elise often requires 2-3 seconds of cranking before it starts. This is primarily on cold starts. Has anyone else noticed this issue? It runs fine after it has started, but I didn't want to get stranded if this is a sign of something malfunctioning.

Thanks
 

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two to three seconds when cold? really?
 

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Hummm my 06 has done that a few times but it has been a little bit random on cold starts. Most of the time mine starts right up but there has been a couple times when I thought "WTF that took too long to start"

I have a new set of spark plugs standing by if the problem becomes less random. I will also check the usual stuff on the next oil change like cleanliness of the MAF and air filter this weekend.

I haven't tried the multiple prime yet but will keep it in mind.
 

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Does your car have a 'Cold Start Injector' ? That injector gives it the primary shot of fuel to get the system running so I would check all of those connections. Check ALL ground connections for loose wiring and corrosion especially if the fuel injection system has grounds.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
It's not starting at all now. Unless a weak battery is causing all of this, it may be due to a separate issue...possibly the alarm. The remote is not unlocking the doors and the car does nothing when the start button is pressed. I've tried re-synching the remote, but it does not help. The red light is blinking on the dash, so I guess I'm unable to disarm the system. I'll try some of the other disable methods when I get home.
 

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my 06 was sitting for about a week, and it started on the very first turnover.
Interestingly, Lamboirghinis seem to need at least 50 turnovers before they start.
 

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you problebly have already thought of this but, after work one night went to start car and nothing - full dash lights ,headlights etc--started pushing fob buttons, mind you buttons- then thought I deactivated something or whatever - got the manuel out with the code [pin] went through the steps still nothing- got a ride home- came back next day with my spare key & fob set, presto, car started right up - dummy I was - battery needed to be replaced in fob--and always best to press fob before turning key, you'll hear electric fuel pump before pressing start button
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I think it may have been the keyfob battery. I replaced that and went through the sync process a few times and it finally started to respond. The doors unlocked and the car started. I'm a bit paranoid to lock it with the remote again, but it seems to be working.

The car battery is less than a year old, so I think it's fine. It cranked up immediately. The few times that it took a while to crank, the engine was still turning over quickly. I'll just try the fuel pump prime in the future if I run into long cranking times again.
 

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When you get in, deactivate the immobilizer, THEN turn the key to "on", THEN listen for the fuel injector to prime the system (2-3 seconds), THEN push "start" and it should start right up. If you turn the key to "on" before the immobilizer deactivation and pressing "start" the fuel system isn't primed and you get that long cranking phenomenon.
 

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When you get in, deactivate the immobilizer, THEN turn the key to "on", THEN listen for the fuel injector to prime the system (2-3 seconds), THEN push "start" and it should start right up. If you turn the key to "on" before the immobilizer deactivation and pressing "start" the fuel system isn't primed and you get that long cranking phenomenon.
Ohhhhh! My process is always key in turn to start then turn off immobilizer (I don't lock my car at night). I always assumed the hard start was from my tiny battery and didn't give it much thought. One thing I did notice is that if I tap the start button for a quarter of a second then wait a second then hit it again it would start up immediately. Seems to correlate with what you're saying :)
 

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By-the-way, "primed" means giving the fuel pump time to pressurize the fuel system.

While the longer crank time isn't good for the starting motor, it at least does start pressurizing the oil system before internal combustion starts, which can help reduce bearing wear. I don't know if the oil system gets pressurized enough in those few seconds to make a difference to bearing life. But, I would rather replace a starting motor than bearings.
 

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Ohhhhh! My process is always key in turn to start then turn off immobilizer (I don't lock my car at night). I always assumed the hard start was from my tiny battery and didn't give it much thought. One thing I did notice is that if I tap the start button for a quarter of a second then wait a second then hit it again it would start up immediately. Seems to correlate with what you're saying :)
Permanently deactivate the immoblilizer then you will never have to worry about it (or the blinking little light). Get in , turn the key and hit the start button, just like thousands of other people do with their cars everyday.


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I've noticed that my Elise often requires 2-3 seconds of cranking before it starts. This is primarily on cold starts. Has anyone else noticed this issue? It runs fine after it has started, but I didn't want to get stranded if this is a sign of something malfunctioning.

Thanks
Found your problem. Check this thread. It's a seal at the fuel pump and fuel tank.
 

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Different but similar topic/question.

On our DBW setup, does slightly depressing the gas pedal really do anything to help it start?
Not sure when the ECU tells the throttle plates, MOVE THIS MUCH. Does it move the throttle even at 0 RPM?

If the motor "floods", does keeping the gas peddle floored (WOT on the cable driven setup) help?
 
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