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guys, trying to find grip on the Rear, any valuable comments?

Picture of the car

And onboards...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jJrWCO8Ttrw

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_5arMLK_Cvw

Thanks!!

 

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Sure Gents!
here is present set up:
Jrz 3 way
F 550
HS 8
LS 6
R22

R600
HS6
LS4
R20

wheel alignment
F

L-2,37 R-2,35
L-1,5mm R-1,5mm


R

L-1,59 R -2.02
L+0,7mm R+0,7mm


Cusco lsd

Wheels

8x16 with Yoko 210/580r16 1,65 bar hot soft
10x17 with dunlop 265/630r17 1,9 bar hot mid

Difference in tire temperatures was 5-10 degrees between sections out/mid/in


Its N/A as i will race this month in polish national championships, the car is build according to Fia regulations and unfortunately min weight is 900kilos with engine up to 2000cc

 

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https://plus.google.com/app/basic/p...ource=apppromo&pct=ab&pcv=6008521463554597073

 

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As above
"Difference in tire temperatures was 5-10 degrees between sections out/mid/in"
So F 45/55/60 C
R 55/62/73 C


How about spring rates, no one commented?

guys, camber on the rear is nearly same, this is 3 minutes differenc!!!

 

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You have all the details above.

^FFS it is easier to read a core dump^

For each corner:
Weight
Shocks:
Rebound damping
Compression damping
Toe
Castor
Camber
Bumpsteer
Temps: inside middle outside

 

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A good starting point for suspension setup would be 3.8 camber in the front and ONLY 0.1mm toe out. For the rear, 2.0 camber and 1.2mm toe in.

Sure but front is not a problem so why i should increase camber?

 

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Jrz guy said i have to start with correct platform, which is springs rates as start point...

 

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If your rebound is clicks from softest, then you have too much rebound damping. I know we talked about this before. Rebound damping should be much less than compression damping.

But how? Rebound is from 0 to 24 and for example low compression speed is from 0 to 6 clicks.

 

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Your springs are close enough...I have 550/700 on mine. The softer spring in the rear will get you more traction in the rear...which you don't have. At this point, going to stiffer springs in the back will just make your situation worse. Get the geometry right first...

Which car you are running and which shocks?

 

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Your springs are close enough...I have 550/700 on mine. The softer spring in the rear will get you more traction in the rear...which you don't have. At this point, going to stiffer springs in the back will just make your situation worse. Get the geometry right first...

My springs are close? At the front im at the limit of shocks regulation... Maybe I should use front 600 rear 650 and go lower with the clics?

Why you think my tire temp is too high? Dunlop guy told me 70c is minimum.

 

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Gents, anyone noticed my wheel offset?

Maybe this picture will help?

 

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We are talking about different lever working on springs...

 

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I never said your tire temperatures were too high...I just said that your tire temperatures are showing poor suspension setup.

Look...you are getting a lot of very good (free) advice here... Springs are NOT the cause of your handling problems. If you don't believe us, change them...then you will see that we were right.

Sure but im confiused...

So what is exact place that I should start in your Opinion?

Guys thank you for trying help me, I would love to pay somone to do adjustment for me but here in Poland no one have a clue about it, lotus is an exotic and we have just one race track in Poland

 

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Also, corner balance...has that been done on your car. You don't tell us the weight on each wheel...that could be way off on your car.

I did this last year, Im still waiting for balast i have to add to the weight of the car and then will do cornering

 

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Hqve you noticed where is Ball joint vs. In edge of the rim? I belive this also makes the Difference for springs ratio?

 

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A good starting point for suspension setup would be 3.8 camber in the front and ONLY 0.1mm toe out. For the rear, 2.0 camber and 1.2mm toe in.

Front camber you recommend wont destroy my front wheel traction? Half of the tire wont be hot enough....
Front is soft as you can see on the pictures so on braking there will be additional - 2 degree of camber...
Toe per side or in total?

 

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Here is under braking

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-...ok/w1338-h889-no/DSC08694+%281600x1063%29.jpg

 

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Not really...not enough to matter. All that will do is make the feel different in right hand turns from left hand turns...and not track straight.

Take the wheels off and measure the distance from the mounting face to the edge of the rim...you will have to put a stick across the wheel to do this. If they are different, you have bad quality wheels. Get new ones!

O man, this is custom forged lightest you can have braids for 6000 euros per set..belive me they are just fine.

 

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My toe numbers are per side...so only 0.2-mm total toe out in the front. Almost zero!

You will also need to buy the front upper wishbones and steering arms from a 2-Eleven to get that much camber in the front... they fit on all othe Lotus chassis...just made for motor sport use.

Agree, was thinking about them.

 

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If not the wheels (after measuring) something on the upright is bent...or the chassis... not being there, it is tough to say from a distance... sorry...

No you didnt understand, im trying to show that wheels are in longer distance from the shocks so this create different force working on the spring/shock...