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I just went through a similar hunt but decided on going with the BOE oil pan instead of changing the sandwich plate. That pan has a bung for the temp probe, and I am going to use the factory pressure location. Just the nightmare of getting that original pan off is enough to make me wish I had just gone with just a different sandwich plate. When I used to live up near you (assuming you are in Lake Orion as your profile says on here), my first stop was always to see if MWR had any used parts lying around
@exlondoner I think you were a victim of autocorrect there. Did you mean the Mishimoto plate?
 

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Appologies it's been a few years, I mean't GlowShift sandwich plate.

It's an excellent plate and a simple install, it is the route I would recommend.

Max speed is also another reputable brand.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I just went through a similar hunt but decided on going with the BOE oil pan instead of changing the sandwich plate. That pan has a bung for the temp probe, and I am going to use the factory pressure location. Just the nightmare of getting that original pan off is enough to make me wish I had just gone with just a different sandwich plate. When I used to live up near you (assuming you are in Lake Orion as your profile says on here), my first stop was always to see if MWR had any used parts lying around

@exlondoner I think you were a victim of autocorrect there. Did you mean the Mishimoto plate?
I have the GPan that has one bung Ican use for temp hook up. I will look where the factory pressure location is but might be more easy for sandwich plate? Yes in Lake Orion, MWR is a 30min drive for me and a go to place for OEM gaskets and parts on the fast.
 

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OK now recommendations on a single Oil pressure/temp 2" gauge, I ordered the BWR gauge bracket.

thanks, Alan
 

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I went with this but am still in the process of hooking it all up:


I'd lean towards the temp sensor in the pan rather than the sandwich plate. The sandwich plate will read a little colder, more so the closer the probe is to the return line.

The tricky part I'm hitting now with the pressure sensor is that I don't have a socket set big enough. I ordered a 24mm from what I could find, so I'll find out tonight if that was the right size or not. As a first principle, I don't like adapters, but sometimes it is worth it given how much more work it would take to do it without one.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I just went through a similar hunt but decided on going with the BOE oil pan instead of changing the sandwich plate. That pan has a bung for the temp probe, and I am going to use the factory pressure location. Just the nightmare of getting that original pan off is enough to make me wish I had just gone with just a different sandwich plate. When I used to live up near you (assuming you are in Lake Orion as your profile says on here), my first stop was always to see if MWR had any used parts lying around

@exlondoner I think you were a victim of autocorrect there. Did you mean the Mishimoto plate?
Are you going to replace the factory Oil pressure hook up or do some kind of T fitting to have both? starting to like this option vrs sandwich plate @cyow5
 

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Are you going to replace the factory Oil pressure hook up or do some kind of T fitting to have both? starting to like this option vrs sandwich plate @cyow5
The stock oil light really just comes on once the engine is hosed anyways, so I have no qualms with removing that connector. Rather than T in, I am just going to really on my programmable pressure gauge to give me a warning earlier than the stock one would've anyways. I've been lazy so far and not looked into how the stock pressure switch works, but my guess is that it grounds to the engine block when pressure drops below the threshold. If that's the case, simply unplugging it will keep that light off and all will be dandy. Otherwise, I'll just manually ground it out. Shouldn't be too hard to trick the ECU into thinking the sensor is still there.
 

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I wouldn't remove the factory warning sensor...

What happens if your aftermarket gauge sensor decides to fail? Yes it happens, the factory should come on around 2-5 psi and offer some protection.

I also don't recommend using a T adaptor at the factory point if you do decide to tap into the pan and use both (stock and aftermarket), the vibrations will definitely make it loose, and we all know what to expect thereafter.

Using a sandwich plate is a simple and proven method.

Good luck with whatever you decide :)
 

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I wouldn't remove the factory warning sensor...

What happens if your aftermarket gauge sensor decides to fail? Yes it happens, the factory should come on around 2-5 psi and offer some protection.

I also don't recommend using a T adaptor at the factory of you don decide to tap into the pan and use both.

Using a sandwich plate is simple and a proven method.

Goodluck with whatever you decide :)

If the aftermarket gauge fails, then I'll handle that then. It would only be a problem if the gauge fails and the engine gets a leak at the exact same time, which I'm comfortable with those odds. I'd rather be able to see the problem coming than only get a warning after it has grown to be a huge problem. Plus, I'd rather use the location that Toyota used rather than a location elsewhere that may have a different pressure reading anyways.

I honestly don't remember; what was the oil pressure scare you had a while back? Is that applicable here?


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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I have the glowshift oil pressure gauge and the sandwich plate. The only issue I have is that every couple of years I have to replace pressure sending unit as The vibration kills it. It may be just poor quality unit but they are pretty cheap at $15. I just buy a couple to have on hand. I would like to put sender at factory port with a T. Tommy
 

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