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A few weeks ago I had the fortune of meeting up with some local guys to help install a Stage II exhaust on an '07 S. In doing so, I had the missfortune of having to drive on I95 past Baltimore. With all the bumps in the road, my driving lights, namely the passanger one, came loose. I can move them into the correct position with my hand, but as soon as I hit a bump, it begins illuminating a patch of road about 10ft infront of my car and that's it.

Last night while trying to tighten these, I discovered its a real PITA thanks to the glued on mesh grill. My mesh is cut incredibly close to the driving lights so I can't fit a socket past the light housing at all unless the lights are loose and freely pivot up and down. After an hour of tinkering, I've decided to replace the two M4x10 Hex head screws that hold the two mounting brackets together with philips head version of the same (McMaster-Carr part number 94387A245). This means that in theory I'll be able to remove the screws with a philips head screw driver that will fit through the mesh with the help of a magnetic retrival tool (inserted via the front turn indicator opening). I should be able to pull the driving light housing out through the opening in the mesh, tighten the side screws (with lock-tite this time) and/or replace the bulbs if/when necessary and reassemble without having to remove the entire front clam or spend hours trying to manipulate my arm in strange ways, dropping tools into the front air dam.

I just thought I'd post this to see if anyone else has a better suggestion or ever has the same problem I have. I will try to post some pictures soon.

*note: I did searching but did not have too much luck with this, perhaps I've just used the wrong terms. if I've missed a more useful/detailed thread, I appologize*
 

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A few weeks ago I had the fortune of meeting up with some local guys to help install a Stage II exhaust on an '07 S. In doing so, I had the missfortune of having to drive on I95 past Baltimore. With all the bumps in the road, my driving lights, namely the passanger one, came loose. I can move them into the correct position with my hand, but as soon as I hit a bump, it begins illuminating a patch of road about 10ft infront of my car and that's it.

Last night while trying to tighten these, I discovered its a real PITA thanks to the glued on mesh grill. My mesh is cut incredibly close to the driving lights so I can't fit a socket past the light housing at all unless the lights are loose and freely pivot up and down. After an hour of tinkering, I've decided to replace the two M4x10 Hex head screws that hold the two mounting brackets together with philips head version of the same (McMaster-Carr part number 94387A245). This means that in theory I'll be able to remove the screws with a philips head screw driver that will fit through the mesh with the help of a magnetic retrival tool (inserted via the front turn indicator opening). I should be able to pull the driving light housing out through the opening in the mesh, tighten the side screws (with lock-tite this time) and/or replace the bulbs if/when necessary and reassemble without having to remove the entire front clam or spend hours trying to manipulate my arm in strange ways, dropping tools into the front air dam.

I just thought I'd post this to see if anyone else has a better suggestion or ever has the same problem I have. I will try to post some pictures soon.

*note: I did searching but did not have too much luck with this, perhaps I've just used the wrong terms. if I've missed a more useful/detailed thread, I appologize*
You're better off going in from the front, where the lights are, than trying to do anything from where the indicators are. Pull an indicator to see why I say that.

Socket head screws might be a better alternative - along with a ball end hex wrench. I don't have any issues getting a 1/4" drive wratchet & extension on the forward facing ones and then swinging the light back up and using a combination wrench on the sides.

In addition, the driving light is an assembly - near as I can tell, the bulbs aren't replaceable without some surgery (it's not a receptacle).
 

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Be very careful not to over tighten the lights. The soft aluminum housing strips easily. I had to re-tap mine to a larger thread and then applied locktite.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
You're better off going in from the front, where the lights are, than trying to do anything from where the indicators are. Pull an indicator to see why I say that.

Socket head screws might be a better alternative - along with a ball end hex wrench. I don't have any issues getting a 1/4" drive wratchet & extension on the forward facing ones and then swinging the light back up and using a combination wrench on the sides.

In addition, the driving light is an assembly - near as I can tell, the bulbs aren't replaceable without some surgery (it's not a receptacle).
I've already gone through the indicator opening and found it pretty easy to work with, just didn't have the philips head screws. I'll definitely have to take another look at it this evening to see what you are talking about though. I cannot for the life of me get a socket on the forward facing ones though. I seriously only have about 1/4" of clearance the entire way around the light housing when it is properly aligned. I can't really even fit the screws through it let alone a scoket or anything like that.

I didn't realize you couldn't replace the bulbs... that REALLY sucks.

Be very careful not to over tighten the lights. The soft aluminum housing strips easily. I had to re-tap mine to a larger thread and then applied locktite.
I've already tightened them down, snugh but not insane and added some locktite. I was expecting sheet metal screws and a plastic housing at first so seeing metal threads was like mana from heaven.
 

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I've already gone through the indicator opening and found it pretty easy to work with, just didn't have the philips head screws. I'll definitely have to take another look at it this evening to see what you are talking about though. I cannot for the life of me get a socket on the forward facing ones though. I seriously only have about 1/4" of clearance the entire way around the light housing when it is properly aligned. I can't really even fit the screws through it let alone a scoket or anything like that.

I didn't realize you couldn't replace the bulbs... that REALLY sucks.
I was going the other way on mine and found it nearly impossible to get up to the indicator opening from the center grille.
:shrug:

The socket fits in there with the light swung down. I loosen the sides with a combo wrench first, swing the light down, then I can get a socket on the forward facing ones. Tightening things up is the reverse.

Yeah, it's still very fiddly.

Someone here had taken apart their lamps and put in HIDs but I'm 99% sure the lamps aren't meant to come apart.
 

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Well, I replaced 1 of the screws last night (it was the only one I couldn't previously get to) using the mehtod I described above and it worked like a charm. I'll try to post a picture or something this evening if I find my self in the garage with a camera.
 

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Last night while trying to tighten these, I discovered its a real PITA thanks to the glued on mesh grill. My mesh is cut incredibly close to the driving lights so I can't fit a socket past the light housing at all unless the lights are loose and freely pivot up and down.
I'm assuming that you are talking about the pivot bolts on the sides of the light housings. You should be able to use an open end wrench to get to these. If it's the others, then loosen the pivots and then tighten front facing mounting bolts, then aim the lights and tighten the pivots with the open end wrench.

In addition, the driving light is an assembly - near as I can tell, the bulbs aren't replaceable without some surgery (it's not a ceptacle).
Sorry to disappoint you, but the bulbs are easily replace from the back of the driving lights. You may have to remove the light housings from the car to get access, but it's easy to change the bulbs after you remove the rubber cover off the back.
 

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Sorry to disappoint you, but the bulbs are easily replace from the back of the driving lights. You may have to remove the light housings from the car to get access, but it's easy to change the bulbs after you remove the rubber cover off the back.
**Sigh of relief**
 

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Sorry to disappoint you, but the bulbs are easily replace from the back of the driving lights. You may have to remove the light housings from the car to get access, but it's easy to change the bulbs after you remove the rubber cover off the back.
And I'm so incredibly disappointed.
:rolleyes:

Good to know.
 

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