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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I removed the cluster. Seems mostly a simple job. For what it is worth, here are the steps.

It would be a good idea at this point, to apply a layer of blue tape to the front of the dash cluster to protect the visible parts from scratches.

Using a small philips screwdriver, remove the screws from the sides of the steering column. These screws hold on the bits of cowling and other assorted plastic parts. Pics to follow.

Remove top cluster cover. There is velcro holding it down in the rear of the cowling (towards the front of the car). Not sure if you need to do anything else but wiggle it until it comes free. There are four tabs with metal clips on them. They pop out. I think it is hard to not lose a clip though. See pic of the cluster cover sitting on my desk.

The cluster is then attached to a rectangular bracket thingie that attaches to the aluminum dash extrusion. There are 4 philips (med) screws that can be reached with a normal length screw driver. If the tool is too long, it will be a problem. You can reach around the stalks. See pic with screwdriver pointed to front of car.

The cluster is now loose. You can see two hook shaped plastic things that go downward. You can leave one of them on, or maybe both. I took the one off closest to the door to allow me easier access to the connectors. Two remove the hook shaped things, use a standard philips screwdriver. See pic with screwdriver pointed to hook thingie.

Now the only thing holding the dash cluster to the car are two connectors. The white one has a small clip you can press in with your finger to release it. The other connector (black) is a very tight fit, but just wiggles out eventually... or use a flat bladed screwdriver to pry gently on the sides.

Remove dash.

There are 4 long machine screws with washers that hold the dash together, But to get to the side 2 screws, you need to first remove the mounting bracketry. That is held on with 4 nuts. There is not a lot of room outside the nuts and they are too deep to use some sockets on. I found a socket driver bit 9/32" or 7mm will work well. Remove the 4 nuts and washers.

Now pull off the bracket straight. It will want to get hung up.

Remove the remaining philips screws that were below the sides of the bracket. Remove the 4 smaller machine nuts on the studs. Again, use a 7mm wrench. A ratcheting wrench makes short work of this.

The back of the cluster will now pop off. It might need some persuasion. Again, you have to pull straight.

Inside is the printed circuit board. There are two small philips screws attaching the board to the front plastic case. Remove those. The only other thing attached is the small 2 pin connector for the electroluminescent panel. Push in the detent lock and pull off that connector. The board will now pull away from the front of the cluster. What will be left behind are the needles for the two gauges, the electroluminescent membrane and the plastic housing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Putting things back together is the reverse... the only tricky part are the two gauges. The parts connected to the needle are loose between the needle and drive motor shaft. You have to get everything lined back up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Now here is the question. How do you zero the needles when you put it all back together? Do you somehow have to manually get them zeroed when you push the shafts back into the gauges?
 

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Randy- when I did my best approximation to "zero" the needles after changing out the EL panel I...

- temporarily remounted the cluster without front glass installed

- did the open door, quick insert key turn ignition on rachet sound reset until they appeared to be zeroed

- started the car, let it warm up, checked for 800-900 idle tach alignment.

- took the car for a test drive with a gps unit in tow... and brought a passenger!

- got it up to 80 mph and checked speedo accuracy. It was off a bit so I had my passenger CAREFULLY hold the steering wheel. I popped the needle off and lightly realigned.

- I also did the same thing with my DL-1 (which registers RPM) on the Dash1. It read 4500 - I tweaked the needle to say 4500.

- rinse and repeat if necessary.

I couldn't think of any other accurate way of doing this. YMMV!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Turns out the EL pad is not the problem. Neither are lighting up. :(

I put my old one back and can mail back your's. Oh well.

Maybe time to just make the swap to the new dash.
 

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Driver circuit, sean still has mine, once i get it back i'll take a look over and see whats what on it.

keep hold of it for now, maybe someone else can use it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Yeah, I took a quick glance at the circuit. Nothing obvious.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Randy- when I did my best approximation to "zero" the needles after changing out the EL panel I...

- temporarily remounted the cluster without front glass installed
How did you remove the front glass?
 

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Here's how to zero the needles:

1. Remove the two red fuses (7.5) under the dash.

2. With the car off, press and hold the trip button for about 2 seconds then turn the key (while continuing to hold the button in).

3. In a second or two the software version should flash on the screen in the gauge cluster. When it does, your needles should be reset

Sometimes you may have to do this a couple times to get it exactly right.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
David, clarification please? You cut around the seal from the front outside. As in looking at the front of the dash cluster, the clear plastic meets the black plastic housing and you slid an x-acto knife in there? You did not have to take the cluster apart for that?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
To answer the last question, yes. Just run a small knife blade between the clear plastic part and the outer black plastic housing. There is a small channel you can run the blade along. Just be careful and take your time.

Then carefully pry up with a small flat bladed screw driver and you can separate the clear plastic from the housing. I left it attached at the bottom so it was "hinged." Then I was able to pull off the needles entirely (again, using the small flat screwdriver).

I connected the rear connectors, turned the car on and placed the needles where they should be, at zero rpms and zero mph. I had to tweak mph once, but then they seemed fine. I started the car and noted it still said 0mph and the rpms climbed up to where they should be. So, so far so good.

I was able to just push the clear plastic back into its recessed area and it seems to stick fine, but if needed, I will add a dab of silicone.
 

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Here's how to zero the needles:

1. Remove the two red fuses (7.5) under the dash.

2. With the car off, press and hold the trip button for about 2 seconds then turn the key (while continuing to hold the button in).

3. In a second or two the software version should flash on the screen in the gauge cluster. When it does, your needles should be reset

Sometimes you may have to do this a couple times to get it exactly right.
You shouldn't have to remove any fuses to do this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
FWIW, the normal zeroing procedure does not work when the needles have been removed and one it point to a bazillion rpm and the other points to negative light speed.
 

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thanx loads mate just followed your instructions and it worked a treat, i am a new lotus owner and wasn't able to start my baby so jumped started it yesterday and have been trying to find out how to zero the speedo and rev counter, phew what a relief,i phoned my dealer and they were talking a new cluster £300. cheers charliex
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Some more pics added (and also to the first post).

Pic of back of cluster showing the two connectors to be removed.

Bracket thingie

Pic of front lens after carefully prying it out (after using a small blade to cut any adhesive).

Pic of electroluminiscent panel
 

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