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199 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·

The Car: 1999 Elise Sport 190 (Series 1) - Factory Track Prepared - 1,600 lb Aluminum Lightened Chassis

Primary Use: Performance Driving / Track Days

Existing Engine: Rover 1.8L VHPD (est. 175whp)

New Engine: NA Acura TSX 2.4L K24

Performance Goal: 280whp/210ft-lb Tq



A few months back, I sourced the first component needed... an engine.

K24A2: 2004 Acura TSX

* Displacement: 2,354 cc (143.6 cu in)
* Power: 200 PS (150 kW; 200 hp) @ 6800 rpm
* Torque: 232 N·m (171 lb·ft) @ 4500 rpm
* Bore: 87 mm
* Stroke: 99 mm
* Redline: 7100 RPM

Actually, I was quite lucky finding this particular engine. Most 'Frankenstein' hybrid engines (K24 long block with a K20 head) require two separate purchases, but the Acura TSX (2004-06) came factory with the desired combination... Long Block with iVTEC Head (so no need to get the K20 head).

Engine Cost: $1,800. It may not look pretty, but considering nearly all the internals will be replaced, the only things we really wanted were the block and the head. Most everything else goes in the garbage.

Build Strategy: I have a few options here. NA or SC'd. Also, I could also de-stroke the engine to where it will rev to 12.5Krpm, but at the expense of more frequent rebuilds.

Some may be asking... why K24 vs. K20? The simple answer, personal preference. At 1600 lbs, I didn't want to take the fun out of driving the car (SC'd = 325+hp) so I settled on a performance goal of around 275-280whp. Fun... but not insane. I didn't want an engine that was so tweaked, I only got 5K miles out of it. I wanted longevity and reliability as a priority. Second, I prefer a NA aspirated engine, but a NA K20 would really only give me a few HP more than my VHPD. Considering the expense involved in the conversion, I want a little more for my money. A performance built K24 will easily meet that goal.

Since I recently blew the head gasket on my VHPD (at Road America in early July), I figured it's time to officially start the conversion process...

Removed Wheels and Undertrays.

Removed Rear Clam.

VHPD Engine Exposed

Removed Air Intake (Note Oil in Overflow Bottle)

Removed Rear Suspension Components and Exhaust

Re-Wiring Strategy

Install Pigtails on Honda Connectors (more info in build guide)

Strap-Up Engine Trans Assy

Turn Assembly Gently and....

VHPD Removed

Milestone 1.... Complete.

Now let's get this cleaned up and build the engine.


K24 Conversion Strategy: Surprisingly, there is not a ton of difference between a K24A2 (TSX) and a K20A2 (RSX Type S -or- Euro Civic Type R). Aside from the obvious displacement, the only significant physical difference is block height. The K24 'Long Block' is 19mm taller than the K20 block. Since most conversion kit mounts are made to fit a K20, I had to take this into consideration when fitting a K24. Here's a photo taken out of the back of my van when I picked up the K24.

In order to better understand the difference in what might be required for the front engine mount, I super-imposed a photo from a K20 to see how it matched up. Notice the chain case bolt-hole pattern is different from the two engines.

Notice the bolt hole pattern difference? Because it's popular to swap the K20A2 (RSX Type S) for the K24 (TSX), I found that there are some custom front engine mounts engineered to adapt the K24 to the K20 engine mounts in the K20 RSX Type S. This one is offered from Club RSX (Aluminum Light Weight).

Club PowerRevRacing K24 Engine Mount (Black)

If you're looking to save a few dollars, you could also opt for a K24 CRV mount for $30. It basically allows you to bolt directly to the K24 chain case, and adapt to a K20 mount. (pictures to follow).

As for the transmission, you'll need to use a gearbox from a RSX Type S ('02-'04) or the Euro Civic Type R. It bolts directly to the K24 (or K20) with no issues. We'll discuss tranny preparation in the next post.

I want to build a K24 that will provide a bit more power over stock specifications, so step one is dis-assembly of the TSX.

Remove front pulley.

Remove Cams and Valve Train Assembly.

Chain Case Removed.

Cylinder Head Removed.

Carbonized Pistons.

Cylinder Head.

Once teardown was completed, I boxed up the crank, block and head to send to ENDYN Racing in Ft. Worth, TX. Endyn has been building Honda racing engines for 20+ years (working directly with Honda Racing) to get the most performance out of various engines. Their website is The Old One - Energy Dynamics and Endyn's owner (Larry Widmer) is recognized as the one of the best performance machine/build shops on the planet.

After several discussions with Larry, Endyn will build me an engine kit built to extreme performance specifications that I can assemble in my own garage. In short, I don't have to worry about all those bearing tolerances, end gaps, and other techno-guru specs that aren't my specialty. He'll provide me all the parts to assemble a coordinated racing engine, but in a kit form so I can enjoy the build experience in my own garage. Next.... the specs of what I chose to have Endyn build for me.


Now for a little about the K24 Performance Build...

The Block: Endyn will bore and hone the block to 87.5mm (no need to sleeve) with deck plate. This bores the cylinders properly without ovalizing cylinders (deckplate). Evidently, without the deck plate, cylinders will warp slightly once assembled creating 'out of round' cylinders. The deck plate prevents this from happening. They will also deck the engine block, ensuring proper fit to cylinder head.

They will provide 87.5mm RollerWave pistons (12.5:1) and coat piston skirts (Endyn custom design for the K24). Piston Rings will be installed with proper end gaps to ensure proper fit. Custom Crower MaxiLite Billet Rods (not Brian Crower) are provided with custom fit wrist pins and rod/main bearings fit to within .005 in.

Line Hone Main Bores To Spec
Cometic Head Gasket to 87.5 mm bore (custom)
Fit Rings/Rod Bearings/Main Bearings to Spec

Cylinder Head: Full Racing Performance CNC (Port match to Skunk2 Intake Manifold)
Valve Job, Decking & Assy, Premium Tapered Manganese/Bronze Guides, Hone Fit Valves
New Valve Seats
Black Nitride Coated Flat Face Exhaust Valves
Black Nitride Coated Flat Face Intake Valves (36mm) , +1mm larger
Eibach Valve Springs
Chromoly Retainers
Valve Spring Seats for Dual Springs
Split Locks
Valve Stem Seals

Check this out: Honda K Series Heads

Custom Endyn Stage 2 Camshafts - Sized to provide performance but easy on the Toda chain tensioner.

Endyn Camshaft Information and Specifications

K20 Oil Pump - CNC Port/Polish and machine work to fit K24.
Fluidampr Harmonic Balancer (K Series)

Additional Parts:

Skunk2 Pro K Series Intake Manifold
Skunk2 70mm Throttle Body
Custom Exhaust Header/Manifold (local builder TBD)

Engine will ship 8/16/10 and build will start immediately.

While the Rover VHPD won't be rebuilt immediately, I do plan to pack & store all the Sport 190 components I remove for future restoration to factory specs. If I ever decide to sell the car, they'll go with it. I promised myself not to do anything that couldn't be reversed, after all this is one of about 50 Sport 190's (very rare).


Next, I needed a transmission. In order to make life easier, it made sense to use the same transmission the K20 would use. That way, all the existing mounts/mount kits would work. I sourced a 6 speed transmission from an '04 Acura RSX Type S for $800. This is basically the same transmission found in the '02-05 Euro Civic Type R, but it has a longer final drive gear (4.389FD). Actually, the longer FD gear might be better for the higher torque delivered by the K24 (especially in such a light car).

Here's where a major decision had to be made. Which conversion kit/mounts to go with? Since Alan Gourlay has been my mentor from the beginning (Thanks Alan!! You da man!!), my original plan was to follow his Stark build. But after several conversations with my tuner regarding my HP goals, I needed to go with some of the 'higher performance' intake manifolds. The problem was that because the Stark mounts position the engine more forward, these 'higher performance' intake manifolds would most certainly hit the forward bulkhead/firewall. While I could have cut the firewall, I decided that was not the best path (after all, it's a Sport 190).

There was another problem too. Remember the different bolt pattern on the front of the K24 chain case? The Stark front engine mount was designed for the K20, so some serious modification would be needed to make that mount work.

The Link-Up mounts move the engine/trans about an inch further toward the rear of the car, but there will be some 'deeper' cutting of the transmission to adequately clear the rear sub-frame mount on the Lotus. That additional inch opens up a range of 'higher performance' intake manifolds that will most certainly help me reach my power goal. It also straightens out the drive shafts a little more which I'm told reduces heat build-up in the tri-pod joints (plus no need to cut the sub-frame as required for Stark drive shafts). Don't get me wrong... I think the Stark kit and the folks at Stark are 'top shelf'. A GREAT K20 conversion kit. For me, it was about the intake manifold and front engine mount.

Minor Problem: Link-Up mounts are ONLY part of a kit accessible to certified installation shops. Called Geary at EliseParts... no luck. On to PLAN B.

Plan B: Stormin Normin (SELOC) took the Link-Up mount design, made slight improvements through his own experiences, and has a local fabrication shop that makes them up for him at a fraction of the cost ($500). Problem solved.

No so fast... these are just the mounts. Not a kit. What does that mean? No instructions. Little to no support (but a GREAT price). No bolts or associated hardware. Go this route... you're on your own. Not like the professional delivery of Stark's kit and support. But wait, I'm installing a K24. Half of any K20 Conversion Kit I purchase won't work anyway. It was then that I realized I would have to become VERY resourceful for the parts I would need to pull this off.

I ordered the SNS Automotive mounts (Stormin Normin) and they arrived a few weeks later. The bushes were not installed so I dropped them off at the local machine shop and the pressed them in. Tight fit... but they went in nicely. I also had them sandblast them so I could apply a new coat of paint to them.

First things first. I need to cut the corner of the transmission so it will clear the Lotus sub-frame mount. I get an old photo from SNS that indicates where to cut.

Pretty straight forward. I grab my trusty hack saw and go to town. (Previously, I was a hand model... but was not 'master of my domain'. I even lost a contest once)

I love a perfect cut! Wait... WTF!!!

I'm pretty sure that's going to leak some tranny fluid. Wow! It was then I realized... "Welcome to the world of DIY!" Time for a cold beer and some reflection.

The next day, I split the transmission case... rinsed all the shavings/filings out... and headed off to my specialty welder. $40 and he plugged my hole (no comments guys). It was then that I felt... well... resourceful. An unexpected issue pops up... deal with it. Solve the problem.

Little bit of paint... and we're back in business. In fact, now I'll have a ton of room.

I don't fault SNS. I made the cut without talking to others and getting consensus. A 'teachable moment' as they say. I pretty much get a grin on my face when I think back on my surprise when I did that. :lol:

I re-assembled the transmission and started to fit the new SNS mounts.

I'll have to say, the SNS Mounts fit PERFECT. Very precise fabrication. Very happy with them thus far. I had to get resourceful when it came to the linkage assembly sourcing the ball end joints, threaded rod, and stainless steel hardware from Home | Fastenal (great source for hardware). The existing shift cables will be reused and will connect directly to the rocker arms.

Linkage works smoothly with no binding. I also installed a new clutch slave cylinder, drive shaft seals, boot and throw-out bearing.


199 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
While I wait for the engine components to arrive from Endyn Racing, I decided I may as well pull the front clam. After all, I'll need to replace the Elise OEM radiator. Why replace the radiator?... I'm glad you asked. :wink:

The Acura K Series engines (Honda's too... one and the same) have a cooling system that operates at much higher pressures than the Rover K Series engines do. This increased pressure can blow the pressure plugs out of the OEM radiator, resulting in the loss of your engine coolant.

Notice all the dusty dirt and broken driving light. I took a short cut (or long cut) at 80mph around Turn 3 @ BIR. Woo Hoo!! The dry cleaners are still trying to get the stains out of my racing suit.

OEM Radiator Removed.

It is highly recommended that the radiator be replaced with a High Pressure Extra Capacity Aluminum Radiator supplied by my friends at Elise-Shop. I opted to install two fans, vs only one in the OE configuration.

Here is the new radiator installed. I also took the opportunity to replace the two front driving lights. Elise-Shop was kind enough to include plastic light shields that take the brunt of the rock chips incurred on track.

After siphoning the remaining fuel from the OE 8 gallon tank, I dropped the fuel tank as we'll need to replace the OE in-tank fuel pump. Why? You guessed it... because the Acura K Series engines/injectors like to operate at a higher fuel pressures.

Note: Another option is to leave the OE pump and install a surge tank (a swirl pot) in the engine bay with a secondary pump. Aside from the arguable safety issues created by that approach, I need the engine bay real estate for more critical performance components (i.e. laminova oil cooling system & remote oil filter).

Many take this 'swirl pot' approach because there really hasn't been a quality manufactured in-tank replacement pump solution... until now. Read on...

OE in-tank pump removed.

Here is the newly released high pressure in-tank fuel pump designed to replace the Lotus OE pump. This is actually the first one shipped from Yvo @ Elise-Shop (actually the first prototype). Now there are probably a few folks out there that think this idea is not new (and its not), but what is new is that it is not a hodge-podge assembly of replaced parts on the OE pump, but rather a completely re-designed piece of performance equipment designed (and factory manufactured) specifically for Lotus engine swaps. Elise-Shop now offers many new custom parts to assist DIY customers. Talk to Yvo. I can't begin to tell you how much help he has been. Thanks Yvo!!

Comparison to OE pump

New pump fitted and fuel tank re-installed

I'm going to need to make room for all the engine components and parts that will arrive this week so a quick trip to Lowes for some wood and I'll box up the OEM Rover 1.8L and 5 spd trans to store in my barn (in case I ever want to restore the car to OEM specs). I kind of felt like I was making a coffin for a dead engine. :cry:

The first items to arrive were my OEM Acura drive shafts (RSX Type S) and the kit necessary to convert them for use with the Lotus Elise S1 Hub Carriers/Uprights (appropriate length axles and custom wheel hubs).

All that will be used from the new Acura drive shafts is the inner and outer joints/boots. A custom length drive shaft and custom fabricated wheel hub (from a UK supplier) will complete the custom drive shaft assembly.

Notice the size difference between the OEM Lotus Joints and the OEM Acura Joints. Although some kits make use of the Lotus OEM Outer CV joints, it's no wonder they're prone to failure under extreme performance use at much higher HP delivered by the Acura K Series engines.

I will have to custom fabricate a speedo sensor bracket to accommodate the larger Acura CV joint... but then who needs a speedometer on the race track? :driving:

So what I need to do is rebuild the drive shaft and fit the new axle.

There was a slight problem with the custom hubs working properly with Honda CV joint housing, so some additional machine work was necessary. The first problem was that when the Honda spline nut was fitted, the 36mm socket would not fit over the nut without hitting the hub flange (centers the wheel for lugs). The solution was to shave a little off the inside of the flange and turn down the socket a little. Now it works fine (and the flange is still thicker than the OE hub flange).

Second problem was where the Honda CV joint mated up against the inner Lotus wheel bearing. While I could have turned down the Honda CV housing a little, I knew this part would be eventually replaced and I'd have to machine it again. I had my machinist make me a custom stainless steel spacer that sandwiches between the CV joint housing and the Lotus bearing. Should work perfect.

Axles fully assembled and ready to go...

Finally.... my engine arrives back from Endyn Racing (Ft. Worth, TX). Woo Hoo!! First thing... a quick inventory of parts. (Man I love it when UPS comes screaming down the street!!)

Machined Block - Deck Block / Line Hone Main Journal / Bored & Hone to 87.5mm (with deck plate)

Cylinder Head - Full Race Modifications (this thing is made to FLOW... baby!)

Eibach Dual Valve Springs / Chromoly Retainers

Black Nitride Coated Valves (+1mm Intake Valves with Seats)

Open up and say "Ahhhhhh"!

Custom Endyn Roller Wave Pistons - 87.5mm 12.5:1 Compression / Coated Skirts

Custom Crower MaxiLite Billet Connecting Rods (Not to be confused with Brian Crower rods)

Modified K20 Oil Pump / Port & Polished (note machined area for K24A2 application - more on that during assembly)

Fluidampr Harmonic Balancer

Toda Chain Tensioner

Custom Endyn Stage 2 Cams will arrive shortly, but I'm ready to start building this bad boy!

Block shipped with both halves of block together, so the first order of business is removal of the lower block assembly. We'll need to install the crankshaft before we can bolt the block to the engine stand.

Install the four oil squirters first.

I had Endyn prefit all bearings and rings to performance specs, so its important to get each bearing in its appropriate journal.

Once the bearing halves are installed, generously coat each with a thick coat of assembly lube. Don't forget the thrust bearings. :rolleyes:

Lower the crankshaft 'very carefully' on to the lubricated bearing halves. Then lube the bearing halves on the lower block assembly.

The lower block will require HondaBond gasket sealant, and this stuff dries pretty quick. I suggest before applying the HondaBond, have all your bolts ready to go and your Torque Wrench adjusted for the main caps.

It's important to replace the Main Bearing Cap bolts with brand new ones. You'll also want to use a quality moly lubricant (i.e. ARP) on the threads and between the bolt head and washer. This ensures proper torque is achieved with minimal resistance. So have your ARP moly lube ready as well. Lastly, clean the HondaBond areas with 3M Adhesive Remover to get any oil residue off the mating surfaces.

Ready... set... go..... Apply the HondaBond to areas as indicated in the engine manual. Smooth out with your finger and assemble the block halves together.

Apply moly lube to the main bolts and torque to specification in the sequence indicated in the engine manual. Once torqued, go back and check them again.

Your not done torquing these yet. Start again in the proper sequence and turn each main bolt an additional 56 degrees (as shown in the manual). Now you can install the remaining bolts around the perimeter of the lower block and torque to spec.

And the crank spins as smooooooth as butter. Let's put it on the engine stand and assemble the pistons, rings and rods.

Again, since Endyn has already set the ring end gaps and honed the rod journals, we just need to assemble (again per the manual). Exception: The piston pins on the Crower Rods are floating pins, so no need to heat the piston and press in. Just apply a little assembly lube to the wrist pin, install the snap ring, and your good to go. Note: It is important to ascertain if the rods need to face a certain direction. Mine needed the journal tangs toward the exhaust side of the piston, but check with your manufacturer for your application.

Install your piston rings with end gaps facing angles as indicated in the manual and your ready to install in the cylinders.

Important Note: Invest in Wiseco Tapered Ring Compressor sized for your specific application. These install the pistons effortlessly! The universal 'crank-to-compress' ring compressors are RISKY and can damage your cylinders, rings and pistons pretty easily.

Identify the first cylinder (cylinder 1-4 front to back) and rotate the crankshaft so the journal for that cylinder is at BDC (bottom dead center). This will help ensure the rod bolt don't contact the polished journal and score/scratch it.

Use plenty of assembly lube on the piston, the cylinder, and the tapered ring compressor. Install the bearing on the connecting rod and apply more assembly lube.

Ensure the piston is facing the correct direction (valve indentations aligned with valve sizes). The larger piston indentations (intake valve indentations) should be on the same side of the engine as the intake manifold. The smaller indentations go toward the exhaust side of the engine.

Place the tapered ring compressor on the cylinder (ensuring the piston/rod combination is for that cylinder - they're matched). Lower the piston/rod assembly carefully into the ring compressor. LIGHTLY tap the piston down into the cylinder with the wooden/rubber end of a 'LIGHT' mallet.

Once the rings have cleared the block deck, remove the ring compressor and set aside. Continue lightly tapping the piston toward the bottom of the cylinder. Reach underneath and guide the rod onto the crank journal (preventing the rod bolts from touching the journal surface.

Rotate the engine (bottom up) and install the rod cap (with lubricated bearing half). Install the rod bolts using ARP moly lube. The lube should be used both on the threads and the underside of the bolt cap. This allows for proper pre-load while torquing these bolts (minimal metal to metal resistance for accurate torque readings). Torque to rod manufacturer specifications (which may be different from OE torque specs indicated in the Helms manual).

Repeat process for remaining cylinders. Since I was building this by myself, I couldn't really take photos of each step of that process. Here is the finished installation of pistons/rods. You should be able to turn the crank without binding, but understand it will get more resistant to turn as you install more pistons.

The next step is to install the oil pump. I've replaced the bulky and heavy K24A2 oil pump with a modified K20A2 oil pump. It had to be modified to work with K24A2. Note the lower block bolts are not flush (as on the K20A2), so they prevent the K20 pump from directly bolting on.

The solution involves machining some unnecessary aluminum off the K20 oil pump so that it straddles the K24 lower block bolts. Endyn performed this modification and also ported/polished the pump for improved flow.

A small oil port (used on the OE K24 pump also needs to be plugged to prevent loss of vital oil pressure. Once again, Endyn plugged for me.

Lastly, I installed a K20A2 baffle (throwing the old K24 baffle in the trash with the K24 pump).

A new K20A2 oil pump chain and guide must also be replaced (as part of the oil pump conversion). I also opted to replace the chain tensioner as well.

The next step is installation of the cylinder head. First, I installed the new ARP head studs, finger tight but fully seated. Don't forget the two dowel pins that center the gasket and head precisely over the cylinders (not shown in that photo... but installed).

Head, valve train, and new Endyn Stage 2 cams installed.

Installed cam gears and new timing chain / Toda chain tensioner.

Align arrows on crankshaft. Note dark gray chain link aligned with crank gear dimple mark.

Align cam gears. Note cam gear marks are aligned and dark gray chain links are aligned with dimples.

The next step was to install the oil pan with Clockwise Motion oil sump baffle installed.

Install Chain Case

Install remaining engine components (new water pump, Fluidampr Harmonic Balancer, etc)

Skunk2 Pro K Series manifold with Skunk2 70mm Throttle Body, Skunk2 Composite Fuel Rail, and Bosch Injector Dynamics ID725cc Injectors.

Next step, flywheel, clutch, and transmission assembly.

Stay tuned... Mac out

160 Posts
First! Sorry, I had to say something. It must be pretty disheartening that people gather en masse to have a circlejerk about their +30 HP stock superchargers, but completely pass over someone who basically built a new car. Bravo!

1,316 Posts
Nice project, but another cause for potential lack of big interest is that you have one of a handful of S1 cars in the US so your conversion is not turnkey for S2 owners, unless the swap parts will work on an S2 car.

Very nice, by the way!

852 Posts
There are probably a lot of people like me who read the whole post and looked at every picture, but will never do such a project themselves so don't have much to say or ask. Still, it's fun to learn a little more about what's possible, and what's involved.

Very nice work, by the way,


172 Posts
I was trying to figure out why the lack of interest, but I think your insight has edumacated me on LotusTalk.
I really appreciate the time and effort you've but into documenting your conversion. I would love to do something like this myself, but I'm not skilled enough to start any time soon. It's great seeing the play-by-play and I'm looking forward to your next post!


58 Posts
K24 conversion

The K24 conversion on the S2 is very similar to the S1. My friend just converted his '06 Elise to K24 (NA 280 whp). Kits are available. Major difference was the throttle by wire conversion.

Supercharge it, and you'll approach 400whp. Yikes!
Very impressive Mac:up: I like the way you went first rate for the engine built. When you have the best, you don't worry about the rest:)

any info on the K24 kits your buddy used? what is your gearbox/clutch solution?

How I wish we can have the S1 not just for track.

199 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Most conversion swaps are the K20a (JDM) or the K20a2 ('02-'04 Acura RSX Type S), along with the 6 speed manual transmission that they came with. I just substituted the TSX K24 long block & cylinder head. Everything else is 100% RSX Type S... wiring harness, trans, ECU (Hondata converted).

An S2 conversion kit is available from Prototype Engineering in CA. I don't immediately have any contact info as my S1 kit is not from there.

As for street legal, I know a few guys with street legal S1's with Honda/Acura power plants. As a Frankenstein assembly of parts, they successfully sold it to DMV as a kit car, and licensed it as so.

1,673 Posts
I think this thread is awesome. I've been going through most of the same process except the engine build. Very nice write up and great pictures. That car will be a blast!

1,673 Posts
No problem, this is one of the best write ups on the site in my opinion and I waisted all morning reviewing it. Now I have to go work on mine.

1,267 Posts
I really like this post, as I originally wanted to buy a Series 1 Elise and install a Honda engine/transaxle conversion. Since I wanted a street car and numerous posts about this subject convinced me that it would be risky to attempt to register a Series 1 Elise for the street, I went with a Series 2 instead. Having completely stripped down an old Elan and rebuilt it, I can appreciate the effort you're putting into this project. The modern stuff looks much more daunting that what I had to deal with. Great project!

782 Posts
Thanks for the great post. This has potentially solved a problem for me in my B16 powered S1 as I have had some fuel pump/ pressure issues. Now I have a question. This was a very serious project involving a lot of skill, knowledge, and engineering ability. Do you have a shop or are you just an extremely serious track junkie/racer? I'm looking for someone to build a more serious B series for me to replace the stock B16A2.

199 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Thanks for the great post. This has potentially solved a problem for me in my B16 powered S1 as I have had some fuel pump/ pressure issues. Now I have a question. This was a very serious project involving a lot of skill, knowledge, and engineering ability. Do you have a shop or are you just an extremely serious track junkie/racer? I'm looking for someone to build a more serious B series for me to replace the stock B16A2.
Maybe not so much skill, knowledge, and engineering ability as... Prepared, resourceful, and patient.

I'm not a mechanic (by trade), but I did a little tinkering with cars in my late teens (under the tree out back.... literally). I haven't turned a wrench in 25 years (not even oil changes). I'm 50 now and just wanted a tinker toy for the garage.

This build is the culmination of reading hundreds of build threads, planning and budgeting (via Excel spreadsheet), and asking lots of questions to those who have. Where did you buy that piece? Why this? Why that? Multiple forums too.

Budgeted $20k... and I'm almost there. My best advice... Plan, budget, build it first in your head (start to finish), and take it one step at a time (in the planning too).

Patience is key. I wouldn't attempt this on a daily driver car that I needed to get to work in.

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