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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Cheers cheers cheers lads,

Creating this thread to document an (apparently common) shift/clutch/gear issue that the earlier models have. Opinions welcome.

-Bought Evora in TX yesterday, my cunning plan to drive back to orange county w/out paying transportation costs.
-Drove 750 miles straight (temps ranged from 85 to 65). Whoops.
-Drove into first gas station, car wouldn't physically shift into gear. Oh so naively attributed this to a fluke - willed it out of my consciousness.
-Drove into second gas station, had to coast car into parking spot. Stubborn knob wouldn't shift into any gear, it seemed decidedly comfortable remaining in neutral.
-Parked, I was unable to shift through gears. But when I turned the car off (with clutch engaged) occasionally able to shift through gears.
-Under the pale midnight moon, while sobbing quietly alone in my car in the middle of no where, I fruitlessly tried to shift through gears, engine and wrench lights eventually both turned on, to my delight.
-This morning clutch pedal is completely engaged (maybe a few inches of leeway).
-Getting it shipped back to A1 in California to diagnose.

Been sleuthing through threads and it seems all too typical this will need a $9k+ clutch replacement my dear Watson. Thought I was being cute buying a sports car with Toyota parts.

Car has 30k miles (2011). Thank god for Bitcoin but I'm not completely decided I'll keep the car so if people want to shoot me offers I'm all ears.

Will continue to document...
 

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Unless the clutch was thrashed, it's probably hydraulics. If there's no record of the OE master cylinder being replaced with an aftermarket, chances are good that it needs one.

Congrats btw on snagging an Evora. Let me guess, it's black? :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Unless the clutch was thrashed, it's probably hydraulics. If there's no record of the OE master cylinder being replaced with an aftermarket, chances are good that it needs one.

Congrats btw on snagging an Evora. Let me guess, it's black? :D
Haha, I wish, probably wouldn't be in the situation I'm in!
Note to self: buy that dudes car
 

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2010 Lotus Evora in BRG w/ Oyster. All options, 1 of 1.
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Could be anything from a bad master, bad slave, fluid needs flushed, all the way to a ruined pressure plate or throwout bearing.

I'd start with the hydraulics. Easy enough to get eyes on the Slave (from below) and see if it moves when you push in the clutch.
 
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2011 Evora NA 6sp
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start with the hydraulics and get that sorted before you really trash the clutch.
 

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like others said it sounds like you are not even getting to the point where the clutch functions....somewhere between your foot and the clutch is probably the issue. best of luck. i had to replace my clutch master cyliner last year on my 2011 at 35,XXX miles...second owner. common problem...the rubber seals basically melting and showed up when doing a break fluid flush lol!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
-Preemptively ordered the Wilwood MC
-Remaining wildly pessimistic

The dropped clutch pedal was only the very last symptom. Can other owners confirm strong resistance when trying to shift into gears? Wrench/engine lights?

I will say it seems obvious that whatever this issue is, it's the aftermath of running the car for 750 miles in Texas nonstop.

*I know absolutely nothing about mechanical issues so I greatly appreciate all your help.
 

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A dropped clutch pedal is fairly common when the m/c is failing or has failed. Some have had the opposite though; a stiff pedal that won't easily go to the floor. Both ended up being m/c-related.

Any time that you can't create enough pressure in the hydraulic line to move the release fork will likely result in resistance in shifting since you're not completely disengaging the clutch.

If you got a wrench and/or the MIL lights, those are likely something else. You'll want to get an OBD reader if you don't already have one.
 

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2017 Lotus Evora 400, manual
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OC Evora owner here. That sucks! I'm not the one to give any advice on this but hope it turns out ok.
 

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2010 Lotus Evora in BRG w/ Oyster. All options, 1 of 1.
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I have an early 2010, and I know the clutch was done really recently.

I have no idea if they did the master though, and I haven't pulled the clam to find out.

After coming from the BMW world of failing rod bearings and tearing unibodies, this Lotus is refreshingly simple to deal with. I still like my BMWs, I just did a set of rod bearings yesterday, but a bad master cylinder is pretty basic by comparison.

That's to say 'Buy it, you won't regret it'.

Most people who seem to sell their Evoras are either upgrading or are the sort of people who want something other than excellent driving dynamics.
 

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Generally manual cars will shift smoothly when the vehicle is off. No clutch pedal needed as there are no moving shafts or gears. Clutch pedal sitting on the firewall would have me thinking hydraulics. Sorry to hear but things will work out for you. Did the prior 750 miles have you smiling and playing like a kid behind the wheel?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Generally manual cars will shift smoothly when the vehicle is off. No clutch pedal needed as there are no moving shafts or gears. Clutch pedal sitting on the firewall would have me thinking hydraulics. Sorry to hear but things will work out for you. Did the prior 750 miles have you smiling and playing like a kid behind the wheel?
Well it was burning through 750 miles of a straight line drafting behind semis. But the brief time I had wheeling around town was...this car is WAY underrated. If this ends up a major expense, not sure if I'll keep it, but this thread has given me hope.
 

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Its been stated numerous times already, but most likely M/C related issue. Probably 95% of owners on here with shifting issues have been caused by cooked fluid, bad M/C seals etc.

When getting it sorted make sure the clutch line has the heat wrap. If not, have it added. Also, the maintenance schedule says fluid change every two years. I do it every year and only use quality fluid (Castrol React SRF).

Heat wrap:


Also, as agentdr8 mentioned, get a reader to sort out the code issues. They could be caused by something as simple as a $20 brake switch which has failed for numerous LT owners over the years. Low battery (causing weird electrical stuff, trip a CEL or airbag light), brake switch (wrench, T/C light, no Sport function) and M/C issues (dreaded pedal drop) are probably the most common issues discussed here.

Good luck getting it sorted!
 

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2010 Lotus Evora
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Don't sell it. Read my post and replace the master cylinder. Then find some twisty road and all will be well.

You bought a car that you can get everything for an oil change at WalMart but a new headlight costs 3 grand. It's all part of the Lotus mystique. You will also notice after a while that when you turn onto an "S" shaped on-ramp your brain will whisper "Chicane".
 

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Stick foot under clutch pedal. Lift with some pressure when mpedal is at top of travel. Helps it refiil. Then pump several times. It will get you home!

DO NOT WASTE TIME REPLACING WITHE STOCK POS. GRP HAS WHAT YOU NEED!!!
 
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