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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Lotus Exige S260 Sport AP Racing BBK Caliper Bolts + Rear Brembo Caliper Rebuilt Kit

Hello,

I recently acquired a used set of AP Racing calipers with the 308mm rotors, from an Exige S260 Sport. The set is missing one of the caliper bolts & I am trying to verify these measurements I've taken with anyone that has first hand experience with this please.

Caliper Part #s:
LF = CP7635-7S0BGLOT
RF = CP7635-6S0BGLOT

Bolt Measurements taken with digital caliper:

M10x1.5
85mm length from bottom of head to end
95mm length including head
Semi Threaded
Hex head with 15.05mm OD
12.9 Grade

Questions:

What material/plating are these bolts?
Are the threads cut or rounded?
Anyone have a part number & place to order?
Do I have the correct measurements?

Here is a sample pic of what kit I have & the bolts


Also looking for some information on the Brembo REAR caliper rebuild kit:

Part#:
22.5279.00
22.5278.00
 

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The threads are rolled...and I can't tell from the photo if the bolts are painted, cadmium plated or zinc plated...if it looks like paint, then probably an epoxy paint. I would use these bolts from McMaster-Carr.
View attachment 91303A288.pdf
the extra 5-mm in length may not be a problem...but they could be cut or washers placed under the head of the bolt.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The threads are rolled...and I can't tell from the photo if the bolts are painted, cadmium plated or zinc plated...if it looks like paint, then probably an epoxy paint. I would use these bolts from McMaster-Carr.
View attachment 185843
the extra 5-mm in length may not be a problem...but they could be cut or washers placed under the head of the bolt.
Thanks for the response. Yes, I was planning on looking at McMasterCarr. Was this the closest match you could find?

I'll test to see if they would need to be trimmed down by 5mm. The only other thing I see that is off is the OD = 16mm where the OEM = 15.05mm; not a big deal can always be shaved.

On a side note; updating this thread to also see if anyone knows where to get the Brembo REAR caliper rebuild kit?

Part#:
22.5279.00
22.5278.00
 

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Yes that was...Don't go cutting up bolts. They are treated so they would not corrode. Cutting the end to make it shorter will not affect anything. As for the head of the screw, go measure the counter-bore in the caliper for the socket head cap screw. If you’ve got a minimum of 16.5-mm, use the McMaster-Carr bolts as is. Do not machine the head of the screw down. I would also replace all of the screws with the McMaster-Carr screw so all of the head diameters will be the same. The head of the screw determines the amount of crush on the aluminum caliper when torqued.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yes that was...Don't go cutting up bolts. They are treated so they would not corrode. Cutting the end to make it shorter will not affect anything. As for the head of the screw, go measure the counter-bore in the caliper for the socket head cap screw. If you’ve got a minimum of 16.5-mm, use the McMaster-Carr bolts as is. Do not machine the head of the screw down. I would also replace all of the screws with the McMaster-Carr screw so all of the head diameters will be the same. The head of the screw determines the amount of crush on the aluminum caliper when torqued.
Great info; thanks. I'll take some measurements this weekend of the caliper & report back here. Hoping this kind of info helps out the people & lurkers :)

I also found the rear seal kit for the rear brembo brakes. Will post up here later with that info.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Just heard back from Stillen; they are offering the Brembo rear Seal Kit as a new part in their system due to the request I made! :)

Lotus Brembo Rear Calipers:
P/N:
22.5279.00
22.5278.00

Brembo Rebuild Seals from Stillen:
P/N: 143.63017
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yes that was...Don't go cutting up bolts. They are treated so they would not corrode. Cutting the end to make it shorter will not affect anything. As for the head of the screw, go measure the counter-bore in the caliper for the socket head cap screw. If you’ve got a minimum of 16.5-mm, use the McMaster-Carr bolts as is. Do not machine the head of the screw down. I would also replace all of the screws with the McMaster-Carr screw so all of the head diameters will be the same. The head of the screw determines the amount of crush on the aluminum caliper when torqued.
Been thinking about this; might be able to take measurements of the depth for the caliper bolt mounting hole later. My only concern with the extra 5mm bolt is that I would need to use special washers that could fit inside the caliper bolt hole to space out the excess if it bottoms out before the caliper is secure (I havent looked at how the caliper attaches to the knuckle yet to see if its an open threaded or closed threaded hole - if it is an open threaded hole, will the extra protruding 5mm hit something in the suspension?).
 

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Been thinking about this; might be able to take measurements of the depth for the caliper bolt mounting hole later. My only concern with the extra 5mm bolt is that I would need to use special washers that could fit inside the caliper bolt hole to space out the excess if it bottoms out before the caliper is secure (I havent looked at how the caliper attaches to the knuckle yet to see if its an open threaded or closed threaded hole - if it is an open threaded hole, will the extra protruding 5mm hit something in the suspension?).
No, the suspension is all to the "outside"...check around, those "special" washers are called AN washers. Even if the threaded hole is not open, run in the new longer bolt finger tight and measure to the base of the head...they just might go in far enough. Threads are usually made deeper.
 

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I just looked up the smallest OD washer that McMaster-Carr has for an M10 screw, and it is 19-mm...too large! Hope that the longer bolts will go in or get them cut down.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I just looked up the smallest OD washer that McMaster-Carr has for an M10 screw, and it is 19-mm...too large! Hope that the longer bolts will go in or get them cut down.
Wait...going off your quote:

"Yes that was...Don't go cutting up bolts. They are treated so they would not corrode. Cutting the end to make it shorter will not affect anything. "

If I cut, what can I use to treat them...I dont think painting will work; anodize?
 

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Cutting up the bolts was for the head of the bolt (don't do that)...I continue to say that cutting the end off will not affect anything. I've used Rustolium high temp (Bar-B-Que) paint for the end of the screw. Anodizing only works for aluminums...cad plate or zinc plating is for iron based metals.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Cutting up the bolts was for the head of the bolt (don't do that)...I continue to say that cutting the end off will not affect anything. I've used Rustolium high temp (Bar-B-Que) paint for the end of the screw. Anodizing only works for aluminums...cad plate or zinc plating is for iron based metals.
Oh yeah, I wouldnt have even thought of cutting/milling the head - reducing the threads at the tip is the way. I typically would attach a nut, cut, remove the nut & file down the rough areas of the new threads on the tip.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Checked the OD clearance for the head & it looks like 16mm OD from the bolt at McMaster might be a tight fit. There is no need for a AN washer as well.
 

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Sorry to bring this thread back but I'm having the same issue. Did the bolts from McMaster worked? Are these the same size for the front and back? I have the AP racing BBK for the front and back. Thanks
 

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Sorry to bring this thread back but I'm having the same issue. Did the bolts from McMaster worked? Are these the same size for the front and back? I have the AP racing BBK for the front and back. Thanks
OP hasn't posted in nearly 18 months, and the other poster has been banned for years.

San
 
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