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shay2nak
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I lowered the car this weekend and now the driver side front wheel gap is slightly larger than the passenger side front. Also, the driver side rear wheel gap is smaller than the passenger side rear wheel. How come?? I drove the car a bit and it's still the same. I also lowered the same amount for each front wheel and the same for each rear wheel. Lotus shows measure distance from top of the locking nut to the shock mount. So for the fronts I have 95mm and the rears I have 100mm.

I know I have to align the car now, but why are the wheel gaps different? I looked at the ride height and they're pretty much the same. :shrug:

any advice or comments would be appreciated!

Thanks!
Ara
 

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It isn't uncommon on handmade vehicles and even higher production cars. I had a Porsche 944s2 cabrio and the rears had close to 1/2" gap differences in the rear wheels. When I tried to sell it, this one dude thought the car had been repaired eventhough it had never been hit, so he passed on it because of that. How you can correct it, that's another issue, I wouldn't know what would be more effective without compromising the mechanicals under the shell.
 

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i replaced the suspension of my old espritv8 to coilovers and the fender gap was never equal on all sides. that's just the way it is.
 

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Put some air in the Driver's side front tire, take some out of the Driver's rear tire.

Gaps even.
 

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I assume you were on a level pad - Measuring the "Gap" is not an exact science! Definately get corner balanced.
 

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something else might be happening

I lowered my Exige as well and found strange things happening.

I have the track pack with the Bilsteins and single adjustable shocks. The bulletin released by Lotus suggests the ride height be lowered from 130 mm to 120 mm for the track.

Lotus provides a couple of measurements to help get the ride height in the ball park before starting to corner weight. The measurements are from the top of the locking collar to the center line of the shock mounting bolt. Stock ride height (130 mm) measurement is 110 mm and lowered the fronts are 104 mm and rears 102 mm. (See here for an image of the bulletin, thanks to Mark)

I started with the suggestions and found my car was still sitting higher(!) than the suggested stock ride height. My car was sitting 137 and 134 mm. I am measuring from the frame rail to the ground.

Given that I need to go another 10 mm, I am not sure there is enough adjustment left in the spring perch. I imagine I am doing something wrong. Anyone got suggestions?

Michael
 

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Given that I need to go another 10 mm, I am not sure there is enough adjustment left in the spring perch. I imagine I am doing something wrong. Anyone got suggestions?

Michael
Do you have the weight in the car? I think it is 75KG. You have to have the weight in the car before doing any geo work or ride hight adjustment.
 

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Michael,

Do you have height measurements before doing any work...as the car was delivered?

Patrick is also correct -- you need to weight the car. Your car (with track pack springs which are the same as LSS) will drop 5-6 mm with just you in it (I'm assuming ~185 lbs for you weight). :)
 

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forgot to measure before

I did forget to measure the car before hand. However I did record the number of turns on the locking ring from the top so I can get back to the factory setting.

You were diplomatic when suggesting my weight was 185lbs! Actually you are close. I did have weight in the car, my largest son, about 125 lbs and half a tank of gas. I also note the Lotus bulletin recommends a full tank of gas and two 12 stone occupants. A quick review of my conversion tables suggests a 12 stone person will weigh 168 lbs. A quick calculation suggests you should measure when the car has 400 lbs of occupants plus gas. I only had less than half that, 156 lbs.

I will buy some sand bags and see where my car sits.

Michael
 

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Ara,
1. ride height has to be measured from the front and rear of the frame to the ground.
2. the car needs to be weighted I use weights only for the driver not the passenger because the set ups I do are for track.
3. the car has to be rolled back and forth 20-30 feet to get the suspension to settle or on slip plates, to take a new measurement after a adjustment.
4. you need 2-4 mm of rake and the car can be perfect for ride height and you can be 80+ lbs off on corner weights.
That's why it takes 3-5 hrs to do ride height and corner weight . If done correctly you can be within 1mm side to side and less than 3 lbs difference on the corner weights. carl
 

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+1 Carl.
I think if you want the best set up you need to consider if you are setting it up for one or two people.
I use wood pellets in 40 lb. bags to form a person in the driver seat at equal weight to the driver. I believe matching weight is critical to the precision of this operation.
In addition remember that if you lowered the car this will change the geo,
the toe will need to be checked at the least.
Here is a primer on a string alignment you can do with a little practice
at home.

Geo Alignment Rig (Home Made) - SELOC TechWiki
 

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shay2nak
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Discussion Starter #15
I'll check the tire pressure, but they should all be what they should be.


Were they same height before lowering them?
AFAIR the fronts were the same, but the rear tire gaps were different.

How did you lower it?
Lowered with track pack


Ara,
1. ride height has to be measured from the front and rear of the frame to the ground.
2. the car needs to be weighted I use weights only for the driver not the passenger because the set ups I do are for track.
3. the car has to be rolled back and forth 20-30 feet to get the suspension to settle or on slip plates, to take a new measurement after a adjustment.
4. you need 2-4 mm of rake and the car can be perfect for ride height and you can be 80+ lbs off on corner weights.
That's why it takes 3-5 hrs to do ride height and corner weight . If done correctly you can be within 1mm side to side and less than 3 lbs difference on the corner weights. carl
I know I still have to corner weight & realign (maybe) but how do you lower the car with weight in it? Don't you have jack the car and remove the tire to get to the perch to raise an lower the car? I didn't put any weight into the car while lowering it.

Also I didn't do any official measurements before. I do vaguely remember the height of the locking nut to shock mount to be about 115mm and I lowered it to 100mm. The fronts I can't remember, they were probably 110 and I lowered it to 95. I basically lowered the front and rear the same distance.

I have no idea...all I can think of is that the car the weight on each side is so much different that if affects the gaps. What is corner balancing exactly? Sorry I'm a bit of a noob when it comes to suspension.

Also I did drive the car a bit including a canyon section and the car is still the same...
 

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Listen to Carl -- he's done this many many times.

Corner balancing involves raising and lower the corners to get the cross weights equal (RF+LR)=(LF+RR). You should have four accurate electronic scales to do this. There are shops who do this for a fee -- hundreds of dollars. If you're tracking your car, you should do it.

Getting the corner weights right is more important than matching the heights, but it's usually possible to do both.

Good luck!

--Joe
 
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