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Discussion Starter #1
2005 Elise, about 75k miles
Symptom: Left rear caliper no longer retracting and starting to drag excessively
Looked at a rebuild kit but don't have the experience to get inside. Ordered a replacement (rebuilt) caliper. Got the caliper in, tore apart the car to put it up on the lifts, etc. Wheel off, pads/rotor off, then find this.

The stock caliper (chipped paint red, it looked great 70k miles ago) is numbered 4051 and appears to be the same as the new caliper which is numbered 6D18. They look identical save for the bleeding nipple on the new one is on the opposite side where the brake fluid comes into the stock caliper.

Could this be a superseded part # and they simply screwed the bleeder on the wrong one? I'm not going to try to swap it or use it if I can't verify it is the correct one as that will likely render it unreturnable.

Thanks for the help!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It doesn't match up at all to the right side. The bleeder fit perfectly when I swapped them. The only thing that's being a pain is getting the e-brake cable back on. Otherwise, it lined up and seems to sit perfectly though I haven't added fluid yet.
 

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All of the casting marks line up and the cable entry, looks like the bleeder was placed in the wrong hole. If your having trouble getting the e-brake cable on check the other end to see if there is an adjustable threaded shaft. You can back off the nut to put some slack in the cable and get it hooked up.

Casting numbers can change because of batch control {to determine if there was a fault in the product they can trace it to that 'batch' and not have to sort through thousands. I would take a caliper and measure the inside bore of the piston and see if it matches the original. If it is different then you need to research the correct size.

Most cables have some sort of an adjustment. On most rear calipers today the piston "ratchet's" out because it's shares the e-brake. Some rear calipers on Volvo's are electronically operated for the e-brake... why :confused:

Also on the first upper picture the cable is not passing through the 'ear' you can see the rust where the stop was sitting. It's by-passing it and needs to go through it.
 

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The bleed screw should always be on the uppermost part of the caliper (above the piston) so you can bleed the air out properly. The "uppermost" hole depends on where the caliper is mounted... in the case of the Elise/Exige/etc, it's mounted behind the axle and so should use the hole that your arrow is pointing to.

It's entirely possible that the more common applications of the Brembo caliper are mounted ahead of the axle, and use the bleed screw in the position in which it was sent to you.

EDIT: Reinstalling e-brake cable is a minor PITA. I use a pair of vice-grips to grab the edge of the tab that holds the cable end (on the extreme right edge of your photo), lock it down, rotate the tab, then slide the end of the e-brake cable though the slot and into its seat.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I figured out why I was having an issue with the e-brake cable and it popped right in. In the above pic I had already taken it off but sharp eyes for noticing. The bleeder valve flipped to the other side no problem. They apparently put it in the wrong one. Everything else seems to line up fine including the pads, etc. I believe the 'batch ID' is on the mark.

Everything seems good save for getting the danged thing to bleed/flush. I was having an issue with getting the bottom of the fluid line to come out without totally torquing/twisting the line itself so I removed it at the suspension junction (as designed) and fluid came out. Drained the line of the old stuff, put the new caliper on, re-attached and put some fluid in the caliper. No matter what I do, including a vacuum bleeder, I can't seem to get anything from the resovior to the caliper. It was working fine before and the pedal has zero pressure now.

Is this perchance an ABS thing blocking it though I haven't had any issue bleeding ABS system before. The whole thing needs to be flushed (it is fed and full with new fluid at the resivior). Idea's are welcome. I know I'm missing something stupid here.

Oh, and I did a feed draw from the location I undid through the caliper via vacuum to be sure it was actually drawing and that worked like a charm. It must be air between the master cyl and the line connection. This SHOULD have been a simple job..
 
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