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Right and thanks. I am just now remembering your earlier post advising against Teflon tape, although perhaps with a minor caveat (and appropriate disclaimers) so long as the tip is left bare.

Kevin
 

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Thanks for the response. I bought the brass T from Monkeywrenchracing. Im planning on installing the temperature sensor on that T and the oil pressure sender on the sandwichplate. Is this setup OK? Now, I have to find the BSP to NPT adapter.
 

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I looked for the BSP to NPT adapter in Amazon but they have several available. Which size would I need to fit in the T from Monkeywrechracing? Thanks
 

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I got, from seller PRM on Amazon: BRASS ADAPTER 1/8" NPT MALE X 1/8" BSPP FEMALE W/ SEALING WASHER. Part number HD-MFNB1/8".

I paid $8.99. Now a bit more.

I fear you'll have to rely on input of others as to what is a good (or workable) set up. I am mostly out of my bailiwick on the engineering side and tend to rely on what others have done.
 

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So I picked up a Mishimoto sandwich plate, 200 degree thermostat, and fittings (thanks exigegus). Last night, I pulled the original thermostat and put them both in a pot on the stove with a thermocouple and verified their opening temperatures. The 185 opens at 185 and the 200 opens at 200. I'm starting to think about where to add pressure and temperature sensors. I plan on putting the temp sensor on the 1/8 npt port on the sandwich plate. Has anybody tapped a 2nd port on the sandwich plate for pressure? There's .350 of thickness in the circular part which should be enough for 1/8 npt.

It seems like this would be preferable to adding a tee at the stock oil pressure switch port on the block or installing a sender relocation kit. The relocation kit solves the risk of vibration failing the adapter but adds a bunch of new connections that could leak.

Am I on the right path or is there a better way?
 

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So I picked up a Mishimoto sandwich plate, 200 degree thermostat, and fittings (thanks exigegus). Last night, I pulled the original thermostat and put them both in a pot on the stove with a thermocouple and verified their opening temperatures. The 185 opens at 185 and the 200 opens at 200. I'm starting to think about where to add pressure and temperature sensors. I plan on putting the temp sensor on the 1/8 npt port on the sandwich plate. Has anybody tapped a 2nd port on the sandwich plate for pressure? There's .350 of thickness in the circular part which should be enough for 1/8 npt.

It seems like this would be preferable to adding a tee at the stock oil pressure switch port on the block or installing a sender relocation kit. The relocation kit solves the risk of vibration failing the adapter but adds a bunch of new connections that could leak.

Am I on the right path or is there a better way?
I think you are on the right path. I have always used a remote location for the OP sender, and using teflon paste on the hose adaptors and not overly torquing things, I have never had any leaks. As others have pointed out, the heavy chunk of OP sender can really be a vibrating time bomb, and is easy to soft mount anywhere it is convenient, and connect with the needed length AN -3, or -4 braided line. You can get various lengths of line, complete with the female ends for $12-20. at places like Speedway, or Pegasus.
 

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I think you are on the right path. I have always used a remote location for the OP sender, and using teflon paste on the hose adaptors and not overly torquing things, I have never had any leaks. As others have pointed out, the heavy chunk of OP sender can really be a vibrating time bomb, and is easy to soft mount anywhere it is convenient, and connect with the needed length AN -3, or -4 braided line. You can get various lengths of line, complete with the female ends for $12-20. at places like Speedway, or Pegasus.
This is on my LFX Miata; pretty easy to locate.
 

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My only hesitation with relocating the stock sender and mounting a tee is the number of connections.

block-> BSP to AN adapter-> AN line-> AN tee or adapter and NPT tee-> whatever adapters are required to reconnect the factory BSP OP switch plus the new NPT sender.

Also, is the stock oil pressure switch BSPP with sealing washer or BSPT?
 

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It is taper as I recall

I bought a dual sender and wired that into where the stock light goes, so I have a gauge and the stock OP light with no T.

If you are nervous about even a gauge sender on the block, I would not stress over the various joints, as long as they are done correctly
 

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I decided to use the "T" system and remote mounting the sender. Also, I think someone on this forum posted a sandwich plate that was drilled for the oil pressure sender.
 

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Discussion Starter #112
So I picked up a Mishimoto sandwich plate, 200 degree thermostat, and fittings (thanks exigegus). Last night, I pulled the original thermostat and put them both in a pot on the stove with a thermocouple and verified their opening temperatures. The 185 opens at 185 and the 200 opens at 200. I'm starting to think about where to add pressure and temperature sensors. I plan on putting the temp sensor on the 1/8 npt port on the sandwich plate. Has anybody tapped a 2nd port on the sandwich plate for pressure? There's .350 of thickness in the circular part which should be enough for 1/8 npt.

It seems like this would be preferable to adding a tee at the stock oil pressure switch port on the block or installing a sender relocation kit. The relocation kit solves the risk of vibration failing the adapter but adds a bunch of new connections that could leak.

Am I on the right path or is there a better way?
I tapped for a 2nd sensor. Went through the bottom of where the thermostat bottoms.
 

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The stock pressure sender unit does look to be a BSPT. I know this because when I tried to install a BSP (non-tapered) fitting into that spot on the block today (to hook up to a braided line and a remote T), I was unable to do so. Granted, my wrenching skills are modest at best (it took me a few tries to get the stock sensor back in after I gave up on the new fitting), but I think only a BSPT will work. The taper on the stock unit is actually pretty obvious on visual inspection.

I did get the Mishimoto in. Thanks Exigegus for the idea and the fittings! Once I get my temp sensor hooked up (at the pan), I'll try to make some data to share.

Note: The MWR upgrade union bolt is just a tad too thick to fit in the Mishimoto, so I put the stock one back in. I may at some point try to turn a bit off the MWR fitting on my lathe to get it to fit. Does anything think that would be a mistake? I.e., would it mess up the temper or something like that? It is very close so I won't need to shave off much.

Exigegus, the dual sender sounds intriguing. Do you remember where you sourced that?

Or maybe I should just leave the stock OP alone and attach my new OP gauge sensor directly to the Mishimoto? Only one of the ports is accessible, but I only need one. That will vibrate too, but it cannot be any worse I imagine than what the stock OP sensor is doing and that hasn't fallen out yet (although now that I have uninstalled and reinstalled it, maybe it will!). So one sensor vibrating is ok? I am after all putting the temp sensor unit right on the oil pan plug. Are we just trying to avoid attaching to the block some massive contraption with a T and multiple sensors?

Many thanks. And Happy July 4th!

Kevin
 

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You were able to use the Monkey Wrench union upgrade on the Mishimoto? I couldn't squeeze mine in so reverted to the stock union. Maybe I wasn't trying hard enough. ;^)
 

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Bringing this thread back alive... I'm getting ready to install the Mishimoto sandwich plate onto my Elise. Is there a torque spec for the union bolt? A little searching around Mishimoto's site mentions 35 ft*lbs for this bolt and 25 ft*lbs for the M20 adapter fittings. Does 35 ft*lbs sound right for the 2ZZ?

Also, on the topic of the union bolt, is the MWR kit a smart upgrade at this point before I put everything back together?
 

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Exigegus, the dual sender sounds intriguing. Do you remember where you sourced that?
FYI, the dual sender for idiot light and pressure gauge is usually a VDO part. Hot rod suppliers like Summit and Jegs list the variants. They are available in different pressure ranges for the gauge sender, different turn on pressures for the idiot light, and several different fitting threads. I haven't found a BSP variant, but the world is full of adapters. Of course, if you've already bought your gauge, you get to figure out if the full scale resistance matches the sender at the appropriate pressure.


https://www.vdo-gauges.com/sensors/pressure-sensors-switches/pressure-sensor-with-warning-contact.html
 

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Missed the question. a little late

Equus from Amazon, cheap stuff but seems to work well enough

I wanted small diameter

I think this one

[ame]https://www.amazon.com/Equus-8164-Electric-Pressure-Aluminum/dp/B001QJ9JX8/ref=sr_1_8?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1546454221&sr=1-8&keywords=oil+pressure+gauge+equus[/ame]
 

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Bringing this thread back alive... I'm getting ready to install the Mishimoto sandwich plate onto my Elise. Is there a torque spec for the union bolt? A little searching around Mishimoto's site mentions 35 ft*lbs for this bolt and 25 ft*lbs for the M20 adapter fittings. Does 35 ft*lbs sound right for the 2ZZ?

Also, on the topic of the union bolt, is the MWR kit a smart upgrade at this point before I put everything back together?
I put the MWR union bolt back in and think it is much more substantial (and hence better) than stock. I had to turn the part down ever so slightly to get it to fit the plate. I think the Mishimoto plate I got had a very slightly undersized hole. Others (everyone else) have not had that problem.
 

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I had the same issue and put back the stock union. How much did you had to reduce the MWR union in order to fit the Mishimoto Plate?
 

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I decided to pick up the MWR upgrade. See my other thread here. I haven't gotten any responses yet but after a couple days thinking about it (and waiting on there 12mm hex socket), I decided that the MWR setup is what I'm going with even though it does have a couple shortcomings.
 
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