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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi again..and Thanks Guy's.

I was just in the Garage sitting in the car idling for a half an hour.
The Flaps are not working.
Their isn't any heat.
Car started right up. Temp is minus 2 degrees.
A little rough at first.
Idle was at 1100. Car a bit shaky for less than a minute.
Car started to smooth out after getting warm and the engine felt very smooth after 10 minutes. Idling after 10 minutes was about 975RPM.
That whirring kiddie toy noise is still there of course. burbling??

Tried every conceivable adjustment on the HVAC. Of course I read your education upon it and used it. No go. she's not flapping or heating.
My x- 928's had this kind of system as well.

After shutdown ,I noticed a lot of condensation-water below the tail pipeon the ground. Smelled it ..only water.
I also after very good warmup jabbed the throttle a few times. There was a pop almost every time I let off the pedal. Not loud, but there.
Is this ok?
Man-I can't wait to pilot this Machine.
 

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Cal H
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982 Posts
pop during pedal lift off is pretty normal.
You have leak or bad pump
The vac line for the HVAC is very small hard black plastic tubing about the diameter of a cocktail straw. You must assume the lotus position on the driver side. (on your back with head in the foot well) The tubing should go into a rubber T and split off to the actuators near the center of the car. I suppose that it might be disconnected in the engine bay so check that too.

You will probably be driving before me in the spring as I still have to assemble my engine
 

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Super Moderator
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I highly recommend that you master how to take digital pictures and post them.

That is a very effective way to leverage the Esprit brain trust on this forum. The pictures (and sometimes video with audio) can help rapidly diagnosis issues from a remote worldwide audience such as us.

I recommend a photobucket.com account - upload pictures there, copy the 'DIRECT' URL there and post back here using the 'yellow mountain square' icon on the message window top section.

If this doesn't make sense, tell me and I'll try and send you a cheat sheet.
 

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FYI - I forgot if you have ACCURATE history, but is the timing belt current?

You don't want to be running the engine AT ALL if the timing belt is in question. That should be job #1 - make sure timing belt has been changed within 3 years/36K miles.
 

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Cal H
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982 Posts
I have heard of T belts breaking at very low RPM like around 2-3K rpm. A few reported just slowly pulling away from a stop. Must be a sick feeling and don't even want to think of it. Although if not for such an occurrence I would not have my car. I forget, do you have the ability to change the T belt or do you have to send it out? Chances are if he had the original wiper blades on the car I would say the T belt is too. Plus if he was on a tight budget there is a laundry list of items to do. Not tragic just annoying but that is probably why you got the car for a less expensive price. Oh if you are going to replace cam seals, cover gaskets, or do C service (check and adjust valves) check the condition of the followers and tell me what they look like. For that matter if they look iffy and you have the cash just replace them. I think they are around $20 USD a piece
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I highly recommend that you master how to take digital pictures and post them.

That is a very effective way to leverage the Esprit brain trust on this forum. The pictures (and sometimes video with audio) can help rapidly diagnosis issues from a remote worldwide audience such as us.

I recommend a photobucket.com account - upload pictures there, copy the 'DIRECT' URL there and post back here using the 'yellow mountain square' icon on the message window top section.

If this doesn't make sense, tell me and I'll try and send you a cheat sheet.
Hi. Thanks for the education. I'll give it a try soon. If I fail, I will bother for your "cheat sheet".
Thank You
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
I have heard of T belts breaking at very low RPM like around 2-3K rpm. A few reported just slowly pulling away from a stop. Must be a sick feeling and don't even want to think of it. Although if not for such an occurrence I would not have my car. I forget, do you have the ability to change the T belt or do you have to send it out? Chances are if he had the original wiper blades on the car I would say the T belt is too. Plus if he was on a tight budget there is a laundry list of items to do. Not tragic just annoying but that is probably why you got the car for a less expensive price. Oh if you are going to replace cam seals, cover gaskets, or do C service (check and adjust valves) check the condition of the followers and tell me what they look like. For that matter if they look iffy and you have the cash just replace them. I think they are around $20 USD a piece
Hi there.
The belt was changed in 2007 when the prior owner purchased the vehicle.
Looking at some receipts,in all the years he put on < than 4000k.
With purchase of the car, I received a set of front brake pads. Brake light switch,in which I require because the brake lights don't go on when the pedal is depressed.
AND a NEW TIMING BELT!!!!!!! New,I don't know how old it is???

I'll have to change the belt to BLUE. Put in a Green Dot Pulley-I'll have to educate myself on that first and valve adjustment.
If an owner is capable of doing this maintenance at home, then I know I am capable with a Manual.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks to: Atwell / CARBUFF he's sending me a CD of the repair Manual.
So Glad for that.
I will read and then start to repair and maintain.
Can't wait..just hope it's not too cold.
 

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Excellent news on the manual!
Good job, Atwell! :)

Wanted to say not to worry too much about the condensation/water below the tailpipe. Mine does that too in cold weather and my cold weather in SF is nothing near as extreme as yours. Minor popping after revving/pedal lift off is perfectly normal as well. To me, that sound on my Esprit says healthy and happy. Loud pows and big bangs from backfiring are not normal though. You'll know right away when you hear it. :)

The green dot pulley is a worthwhile upgrade...it is no supercharger, but my '88 definitely woke up and ran more eagerly/pulled a little harder after the change.

Roy
 

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'94 S4
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Hi again..and Thanks Guy's.

Car started right up. Temp is minus 2 degrees.
A little rough at first.
Idle was at 1100. Car a bit shaky for less than a minute.
Car started to smooth out after getting warm and the engine felt very smooth after 10 minutes. Idling after 10 minutes was about 975RPM.
a pop almost every time I let off the pedal. Not loud, but there.
Is this ok?
I've started my '94 in temps as low as the teens (F). Those rpm's are typical. Smooths out pretty quickly. The popping as has been noted is typical too.

If the belt is 6+ yrs old, please heed the warnings to change it asap
 

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[snip]
From Mike:
>Man-I can't wait to pilot this Machine.
>from e-spree
>If the belt is 6+ yrs old, please heed the warnings to change it asap
I would not drive your car (let alone fire up the engine listening to it) with that old T belt. That is Priority 1 in the world of Esprits.

Call me Chicken Little, but when I bought my Esprit, I had the seller drive IMMEDIATELY to the mechanic for the belt change. I already verified with the mechanic PRIOR that it was at least 14 years (!).

Despite buying the car in July 2011, I did NOT drive the car until October 2011 after all the work was done (not counting the short test drive).

Yes - it was PAINFUL waiting 3 months before driving it.

But it will be MORE PAINFUL if you drive that car NOW with a 6 year old timing and it snaps.

"You gotta ask yourself: Do I feel lucky?"
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I would not drive your car (let alone fire up the engine listening to it) with that old T belt. That is Priority 1 in the world of Esprits.

Call me Chicken Little, but when I bought my Esprit, I had the seller drive IMMEDIATELY to the mechanic for the belt change. I already verified with the mechanic PRIOR that it was at least 14 years (!).

Despite buying the car in July 2011, I did NOT drive the car until October 2011 after all the work was done (not counting the short test drive).

Yes - it was PAINFUL waiting 3 months before driving it.

But it will be MORE PAINFUL if you drive that car NOW with a 6 year old timing and it snaps.

"You gotta ask yourself: Do I feel lucky?"
Thanks for the slap -of sense-in the head.
No-I don`t feel luck much ever!
Advice taken.
Thankyou.:UK:
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I honestly appreciate everyone offering their time and knowledge and I Thank You all.
I don`t take much for granted realizing this is all offered for free and on your time.

So Thanks Fella`s.
Thanks carbuff for the info on the down load.
Mike.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Hi.
Today even though it was cold I went over the car a bit more.
I made an adjustment on the hatch as one side was not flush with the roof.
I of the four bolts was absolutely loose.
The drivers door had an abortion type of fix on the door stop.
The fella didnt bother to find the right 8mm bolt and lock nut !!
Ugh.
Door closes nicer but I wish to align better.
Went over the engine with a good light and lower rear end. Looks pretty good.
Checked coolant on the header tank. Stuck my middle fat finger down the well and there was no wetness on my finger whatsoever.
Bought some coolant today as well.
Attempted to stick my head under the passenger seat.NOT MUCH ROOM!
There's N Amp attached to the underside. Went to the Drivers side and it appears tubes are attached. I realize to get a good look at the hvac you must remove the liner in the glove box.
But!! With the seat all the way back my head just fits. I am no Andre the Giant!
How to remove the seats from the Stephens?
Oil was clean and perfect amount.
I checked the Tbelt by on/off with the ignition and putting a chalk line on it to mark where I already inspected.
It looks like new!
Hmm.
Axle boots are good too.
I am writing this on the iPhone. Can't use my keyboard on my acer.
Anyway. I did sit down and admired her.
Big smile.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Whoops..
Forgot to say that there is a s.s clutch line.
 

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Hi.
Today even though it was cold I went over the car a bit more.
I made an adjustment on the hatch as one side was not flush with the roof.
I of the four bolts was absolutely loose.
The drivers door had an abortion type of fix on the door stop.
The fella didnt bother to find the right 8mm bolt and lock nut !!
Ugh.
Door closes nicer but I wish to align better.
Went over the engine with a good light and lower rear end. Looks pretty good.
Checked coolant on the header tank. Stuck my middle fat finger down the well and there was no wetness on my finger whatsoever.
Bought some coolant today as well.
Attempted to stick my head under the passenger seat.NOT MUCH ROOM!
There's N Amp attached to the underside. Went to the Drivers side and it appears tubes are attached. I realize to get a good look at the hvac you must remove the liner in the glove box.
But!! With the seat all the way back my head just fits. I am no Andre the Giant!
How to remove the seats from the Stephens?
Oil was clean and perfect amount.
I checked the Tbelt by on/off with the ignition and putting a chalk line on it to mark where I already inspected.
It looks like new!
Hmm.
Axle boots are good too.
I am writing this on the iPhone. Can't use my keyboard on my acer.
Anyway. I did sit down and admired her.
Big smile.
Mike,
Do youself a huge favor and take the seats out. It's a five minute easy as they come job. All done from underneath and you don't need to jack it up. Lay on the floor outside the car and you will see four 10mm lock nuts, remove these four along with the four large washers and lift the seat out, that's all there is to it.
Colin
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Mike,
Do youself a huge favor and take the seats out. It's a five minute easy as they come job. All done from underneath and you don't need to jack it up. Lay on the floor outside the car and you will see four 10mm lock nuts, remove these four along with the four large washers and lift the seat out, that's all there is to it.
Colin
Hi. So the same as the G models eh.
Must be corroded as hell.. Hope not.
I will do this and bring the seats inside to of course and give them the Oil of Olay treatment.
Thanks.
Mike
 

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Hi. So the same as the G models eh.
Must be corroded as hell.. Hope not.
I will do this and bring the seats inside to of course and give them the Oil of Olay treatment.
Thanks.
Mike
Hoping you do not literally mean use "Oil of Olay" that would be very bad for the leather
 

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You probably have vacuum leak if you can't get the flaps to move. Vacuum runs from the pump on the engine all the way forward and under the dash.

You can check valve clearances without too much trouble, but adjusting them is a big deal and requires removal of the cam towers.
Valve clearances don't get out of spec that bad unless lots of miles. I would recommend checking them when you do the belt.
I would only adjust them after lots of reading up on the procedure, as the cam tower removal is quite complicated and can lead to stripped bolt holes. Not to mention that shims are used so you will be down while waiting for the right ones.

Randy
 
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