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Discussion Starter #1
Can anyone tell me the proper way to use this. I think I am doing it wrong. My unit I bought today didnt come with instructions

Are you supposed to fill the pressure tank with fluid? If so what happens to the air trapped in between tank fluid and resevour fluid.
I just pressurized the tank with 15 psi of air
So my bleeding is not working out .

Can anyone help?

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #3
WOW thanks alot...I couldnt find it for some reason.... ok well more bleeding tomorrow

Thanks!
 

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Ok. I just went through this with Craig at Rennsport. Do not folow motives insructions. Do not put fluid in the tank. It is a moisture monster. This sounds weird. Make sure tank and tubes are dry. Remove old fluid from master cylender resorvoir. Top up and thred the the Motive cap on. Pump up to about 15 lb. Open bleeder at caliper. It is a slow drain. I did not know this. Check level in resovoir , top up, and move to next wheel. No wasted fluid . How did I do Criag?
Bob
 

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If you leave your wheels on be sure to dbl and triple check that NO drips are on the rims. Don't ask me how I know.:(
 

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make sure to test out your fitting to your reservior at 10 psi w/o any fluid in the bottle. pump it up, and check that it does not leak, THEN, fill it with the fluid w/o removing the fitting from the reservior, just unsrcew to cap from the large bottle.
I had mine make a nice mess once becasue i didnt do this.
they are very nice to use when doing a bleed.
enjoy
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ok. I just went through this with Craig at Rennsport. Do not folow motives insructions. Do not put fluid in the tank. It is a moisture monster. This sounds weird. Make sure tank and tubes are dry. Remove old fluid from master cylender resorvoir. Top up and thred the the Motive cap on. Pump up to about 15 lb. Open bleeder at caliper. It is a slow drain. I did not know this. Check level in resovoir , top up, and move to next wheel. No wasted fluid . How did I do Criag?
Bob

Thats the way I did it and the pedal is terrible. I am sorry but I have to disagree with that theory. I have no other choice than to do it per instructions. Which I just found.
 

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The first time I used mine, I removed the old fluid from the reservoir with a turkey baster, put fluid in the Motiv, and got to work. Bad idea, I should have added some new fluid to the reservoir first. It took a bit of time for the fluid to work its way from the Motiv to the car's reservoir, and in that time I got air into my clutch lines (and didn't realize it until I thought I was done with the job).

When you think you're done bleeding the brakes, follow the instructions to tilt the Motiv so the fluid pickup is just getting air. Keep bleeding the brakes until the fluid level in the reservoir drops to the desired point (it'll be a bit on the high side, most likely). Then you're done.

Use plenty of paper towels around the master cylinder to catch the drop or two that is all but certain to fall during removal of the apparatus.
 

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Thats the way I did it and the pedal is terrible. I am sorry but I have to disagree with that theory. I have no other choice than to do it per instructions. Which I just found.
There's an additional procedure to get air out of the front calipers if there's a problem there, search around here for it. It basically involves bleeding them one time, then inverting the caliper so air can get from one side to the side with the bleeder screw, then bleeding them again.
 

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Thats the way I did it and the pedal is terrible. I am sorry but I have to disagree with that theory. I have no other choice than to do it per instructions. Which I just found.
The first time I used mine, I removed the old fluid from the reservoir with a turkey baster, put fluid in the Motiv, and got to work. Bad idea, I should have added some new fluid to the reservoir first.
You don't have to remove any old fluid from your reservoir before doing the bleed with the Motive. It just takes longer if you don't. If you do choose to remove fluid before the bleed, <b>make sure you don't remove too much</b>. If you do, you'll get air into the very top of the system, which will be very difficult to bleed out. How much is too much? You don't want to expose any of the lines leading from the reservoir to the rest of the system.

If you choose to remove old fluid, refill the reservoir with new fluid before attaching the Motive's cap. Fill <b>above</b> the max mark, put as much in as you can without the danger of spilling when you attach the cap. When you're bleeding the last bleed screw, you'll bleed the level down to the max mark as described in Motive's instructions.

You can certainly use the Motive "dry"... but you have to very vigilant not to let the reservoir level get too low while bleeding... each time you bleed the reservoir down near the fittings, you have to relieve pressure on the Motive by unscrewing the pump, unscrewing the cap, adding fluid, reattaching the pump, reattaching the cap, and repressurizing the Motive. If you bleed too far... spongy brakes/clutch.
 

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I keep a med. sized syringe (with some tubing on the end)in my toolbox for adding/removing brake fluid. its easier than a turkey baster.

the motive is really easy when you follow the directions.
I have never worried about making sure that i get %100 of the old fluid out when bleeding. i just get the majority out, but then again on my racecars i am doing this job frequently.
if you start at the corner farther from the master cyclinder, and work your way around to and end up at the corner thats closest to the master cyclinder, you should have changed out all of the fluid in the system.

just give extra time for the first corner as this will drain what is in the lines of the system.

just make sure you have a good seal to your MC with the motive, or you will get a big mess. if this happens, seal/close up the MC, and just rinse the area with water. the water will absorb and wash away the brake fluid.
 

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85 Turbo almost has it - but remember I said to FILL the reservoir with FRESH fluid and NO MORE than 8-10 lbs.

Each bleed nipple pop your head up and check the level.

I've done this probably 50 times over the past 11 years of track days, works reeeaaalllly well.
 

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why no more than 8-10 psi?

I've always done it as suggested NOT putting fluid in the pressure bleeder and using it just for air pressure.

Also you can put a quick release air chuck in the line between the reservoir cap and the pressure tank so that you disconnect it to add more fluid to the reservoir without losing your pressure in the bleeder and having to repump it up....makes things go MUCH faster.

Also if you have air in your system and in your ABS pump then sometimes you have to cycle the pump to get the air out. Bleed the fluid then go out and engage ABS a few times then rebleed. Do that a few times and you'll clear the air out.
 

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If this is your yearly bleed, don't forget to also bleed the clutch. In other words, you need to bleed from 5 points. 4 wheels and the clutch.
 

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just don't "store" brake fluid in the motive tank.... other wise - you should fill (and subsequently empty) the motive tank.
 

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The power bleeder

Hi All,

A friend told me there was thread on the board re: the Motive Products Power Bleeder.

1) Instructions are printed on the back of each and every tank. At least they should be. Once in awhile one sneaks through without. Also go to our website and at the top of the page there is a link "instructions". Also a demo video.

2) There was a comment that the tank is a "moisture monster". If you don't clean the tank post use you will have moist accumulate into the brake fluid that remains in the tank. Best thing is to dump some denatured alcohol into the tank, swish it around, pump it through the tube. Store tank upside down and open.

3) Lots of guys don't put any fluid in the tank, but you have to real careful not to let the m/c reservoir run dry, unless you like pumping air into the system ;-) If you follow #2 above you should have nice fresh dry fluid.

4) regarding using compressed air to power the tank. unless you have an air drier in your air lines I do not recommend doing that. Air compressors by default put moisture into the compressor tank. Even if you regulate it down to 15psi you still are pumping air AND water through the system.

5)it is a great idea to remove the old fluid out of the m/c with a syringe or other method. But remember to fill the m/c with new fluid before putting the bleeder cap on to the system.

6) ALWAYS TEST THE SYSTEM DRY BEFORE PUTTING FLUID INTO THE TANK. It's rare a leak occurs on the caps used for the lotus (the 1100 or 1109 caps) but the time to find out is when you test the system dry.

7)I get lots of question on how long it should take to bleed. It really varies from car to car. On my CTS-V the fluid literally shoots out of the bleed valves at 15psi. On the Chevy truck it fills the catch tube nicely. On my two BMWs the fronts bleed quickly, the rears tend to just dribble out at 15psi. The only difference I can see is that the lines on the GMs are bigger diameter than the ones on the BMWs. Makes sense that it would have an effect on how fast the fluid comes out. Never the less the bleed/flush is the same on all the cars. I have heard from others that the Lotus tends to bleed slower.

I won't be checking the forum, way too busy. If you have any questions please send them to [email protected]

And thanks for your purchase. Here's a 10% coupon link

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