The Lotus Cars Community banner

1 - 19 of 19 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,511 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Towards the end of the season, if I did a rough shift when cold etc, I started to hear a bit of a thunk in the rear. I am starting to think the motor mounts may need attention.
1. Do they wear out or break?
2. Are they difficult to change? Don't want full race mounts like I did in Elise unless they DO NOT turn car in a vibrator.

What are my options??
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,511 Posts
Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
While doing end of season service I noticed one of the lateral rubber sections on front motor mount is loose. Anybody done this job yet? Trying to decide if this is DIY, or being on a trolley will haunt me here.
May cluster together with serpentine belt replacement and anything else logical to do at same time. Thoughts?
 

·
Illegal Alien
Joined
·
4,747 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,511 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
As I mentioned in the other mount thread I finally found, even in 4rth gear, a firm stab of the gas pedal now causes a noticeable clunk. I have all winter to play but if I hear that access etc is a nightmare, may use the Clint theory here.
 

·
Galactic Hitchhiker
Joined
·
380 Posts
I think we've only seen one bad Evora engine mount, and it was a D132A0224J rear. 2011 supercharged car.

I'm just the parts guy and not a main wrencher.. no idea how tough it is to R&R the front mount I'm afraid. Labour time guide allots .8 hours tho.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,511 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
.8 hrs suggests not so bad. 8 hrs suggests PIA.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,511 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Being that the world essentially stopped and track time NOT happening for a while, thought I'd revisit this. If its .8 hrs may piggyback it with a few other maintenance issues. SC belt, a fitting for the PS is in such an awkward location that it requires a special tool to snug....bumped it during another project last year and while its never leaked a drop, its always on my mental radar. Also sounds like a job best done on a lift, not your back.
With my increased cooling courtesy of the rear louvers, I am less concerned about heat soak now and may look into the Inokinetic tune which should marry nicely with my optimal exhaust....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
450 Posts
Comments on the effectiveness of a louvered engine lid noted. Is there any data on engine/engine bay temps under each lid; could be measured with digirtal thermometer? I prefer the look of glass lid, but potential temp lowering of louvered; supporting temp data would tip me one way or the other.......
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,511 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
I asked Shinoo about this yesterday. Would be cool to have these numbers and seen as they see more units of different types I was hoping they could confirm my beliefs.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
450 Posts
I asked Shinoo about this yesterday. Would be cool to have these numbers and seen as they see more units of different types I was hoping they could confirm my beliefs.
Hope he can add info; didn't think of him as source, thanks; will follow........
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,511 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
@brgelise
Sounds like the rear, which is probably the easiest to replace. The side ones don't have much effect in pitch/dive axis. PM me, I have a ton of pictures from replacement and I'm semi-local.

donour
PM sent. Replace with stock or better choice?? GRP??Buy rear only??
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,511 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Thank you for the pics. Forget which one I saw last fall but I believe a piece is protrudung so probabaly will replace F&R. What parts did you use?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,511 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Well parts ordered. Not really excite d about the BS COVID protocol where they let car sit 2-4 days because its out of the county before they work mon it. My bud has a lift so we may DIY after all. Greg at GRP said rear is pretty straight forward. Donour almost had me thinking otherwise, but I guess I'm a glutten for punishment. Front requires some interesting combinations but on a lift and saving $650++ works good for me!! Good excuse for a few beers
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
170 Posts
My bud has a lift so we may DIY after all. Greg at GRP said rear is pretty straight forward. Donour almost had me thinking otherwise,
Yeah, a lift makes the difference here. Glad to hear that an economical solution presented itself! Let me know if you have any questions and tell us if yours was busted too!

donour
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,511 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
At first greg had Elise/Evora mixed up so now I know the front will be reasonable , but the rear bolts will NOT! But what's an an extra beer or 2 worth anyway hehe
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,511 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
I have had my front mount for 10days. The rear is finally on the way. I will attempt to document the service for y'all as my best track friend and I are going to do it on his lift. Figure its probably another jig saw puzzle like removing the clam.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,059 Posts
Does anyone make a stiffer set than oem for the 400? Haven’t seen anything and I think the car could use stiffer mounts at least forward and aft.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,511 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Actually Greg and I had the discussion about which ones I should order. I am getting the 75 units because he said even these are much better than stock. The 85's would be great for a dediciated track car and if they were available, I'd take them. Stiffest ones are truly for race. He said considering how ong the stock ones lasted, the 75 will easily outlast them.
 
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Top