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Discussion Starter #1
Towards the end of the season, if I did a rough shift when cold etc, I started to hear a bit of a thunk in the rear. I am starting to think the motor mounts may need attention.
1. Do they wear out or break?
2. Are they difficult to change? Don't want full race mounts like I did in Elise unless they DO NOT turn car in a vibrator.

What are my options??
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
While doing end of season service I noticed one of the lateral rubber sections on front motor mount is loose. Anybody done this job yet? Trying to decide if this is DIY, or being on a trolley will haunt me here.
May cluster together with serpentine belt replacement and anything else logical to do at same time. Thoughts?
 

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Illegal Alien
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Discussion Starter #4
As I mentioned in the other mount thread I finally found, even in 4rth gear, a firm stab of the gas pedal now causes a noticeable clunk. I have all winter to play but if I hear that access etc is a nightmare, may use the Clint theory here.
 

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Galactic Hitchhiker
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I think we've only seen one bad Evora engine mount, and it was a D132A0224J rear. 2011 supercharged car.

I'm just the parts guy and not a main wrencher.. no idea how tough it is to R&R the front mount I'm afraid. Labour time guide allots .8 hours tho.
 
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Discussion Starter #6
.8 hrs suggests not so bad. 8 hrs suggests PIA.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Being that the world essentially stopped and track time NOT happening for a while, thought I'd revisit this. If its .8 hrs may piggyback it with a few other maintenance issues. SC belt, a fitting for the PS is in such an awkward location that it requires a special tool to snug....bumped it during another project last year and while its never leaked a drop, its always on my mental radar. Also sounds like a job best done on a lift, not your back.
With my increased cooling courtesy of the rear louvers, I am less concerned about heat soak now and may look into the Inokinetic tune which should marry nicely with my optimal exhaust....
 

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Comments on the effectiveness of a louvered engine lid noted. Is there any data on engine/engine bay temps under each lid; could be measured with digirtal thermometer? I prefer the look of glass lid, but potential temp lowering of louvered; supporting temp data would tip me one way or the other.......
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I asked Shinoo about this yesterday. Would be cool to have these numbers and seen as they see more units of different types I was hoping they could confirm my beliefs.
 

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I asked Shinoo about this yesterday. Would be cool to have these numbers and seen as they see more units of different types I was hoping they could confirm my beliefs.
Hope he can add info; didn't think of him as source, thanks; will follow........
 

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Discussion Starter #12
@brgelise
Sounds like the rear, which is probably the easiest to replace. The side ones don't have much effect in pitch/dive axis. PM me, I have a ton of pictures from replacement and I'm semi-local.

donour
PM sent. Replace with stock or better choice?? GRP??Buy rear only??
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thank you for the pics. Forget which one I saw last fall but I believe a piece is protrudung so probabaly will replace F&R. What parts did you use?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Well parts ordered. Not really excite d about the BS COVID protocol where they let car sit 2-4 days because its out of the county before they work mon it. My bud has a lift so we may DIY after all. Greg at GRP said rear is pretty straight forward. Donour almost had me thinking otherwise, but I guess I'm a glutten for punishment. Front requires some interesting combinations but on a lift and saving $650++ works good for me!! Good excuse for a few beers
 

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My bud has a lift so we may DIY after all. Greg at GRP said rear is pretty straight forward. Donour almost had me thinking otherwise,
Yeah, a lift makes the difference here. Glad to hear that an economical solution presented itself! Let me know if you have any questions and tell us if yours was busted too!

donour
 

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Discussion Starter #16
At first greg had Elise/Evora mixed up so now I know the front will be reasonable , but the rear bolts will NOT! But what's an an extra beer or 2 worth anyway hehe
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I have had my front mount for 10days. The rear is finally on the way. I will attempt to document the service for y'all as my best track friend and I are going to do it on his lift. Figure its probably another jig saw puzzle like removing the clam.
 

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Does anyone make a stiffer set than oem for the 400? Haven’t seen anything and I think the car could use stiffer mounts at least forward and aft.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Actually Greg and I had the discussion about which ones I should order. I am getting the 75 units because he said even these are much better than stock. The 85's would be great for a dediciated track car and if they were available, I'd take them. Stiffest ones are truly for race. He said considering how ong the stock ones lasted, the 75 will easily outlast them.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
All I can say is WOW! In brief, the 75 hardness units are much much better than stock. Even with these, at idle, car has some vibration but its all good because it has never shiftedso cleanly since new. Front mount was done includinhg initial prep in 2 hrs. You need to nuts because the stock nots on the OE motor mounts don't come off. This mount was not too bad in any way. Just took patience.
The rear mount, on the other hand was a BASTARD!!! It took 6.5+ hrs to deal with...probably wasted 2 hours on 1 damn bolt because we realized the motor mount was not going to cooperate unless we removed the mounting plate to the motor and the top bolt was a true bastard. The new innovative motor mount makes it IMPOSSIBLE to thread the top bolt so considering there are 4 bolts holding the plate to the engine, yet the motor mount attaches to aluminum on the frame...that bolt is not installed till I buy a hex bolt . Then I will be able to put a tool on the top of the bolt. I have access to it from top of engine bay. It will also need a slightly smaller flange. Even my friend that has worked on cars for 50yrs said that was one of the most difficult he has ever encountered.
But, in the end, all worth it.

DO NOT DIY THIS JOB UNLESS YOU HAVE A GAZZILLION TOOLS AS IT TAKES ALL KINDS OF EXTENSIONS STRAIGHTS, ANGLES, WRENCHES RATCHETS ETC. We had at least 25 different items in play. Without a lift this would be torture. The innovative motor mount is a very nice piece but the reinforced rib blocks that top plate bolt and you don't install in one direction. Its a true 3D movement to get it done and in place.

As said before, you remove both engine and exhaust undertrays, muffler, U pipe from front and rear banks, aluminum heat guards front and rear protecting the mounts., Also the plate in trunk giving you lower engine bay access has to be removed. If your exhaust is stock , the tubing for the exhaust valve gets in the way...Mine is gone now. The heat shield up against the battery compartment makes the left top motor mount bolt a bit of a bitch as well. Remove by running a 2 ft extension down between it and the shield, reinstalled the other way because the mont gave that damn shield a good pich during install which pushed it back somewhat.

I DO NOT WANT TO DO THIS AGAIN! But I did save a ot of money. I know whay $650 in labor was quoted because even someone that has done this before its going to curse a lot. 9 hrs all total but every bolt was replaced except that one.

Finally forget to take a pic but my front mount was soft and starting to crack. One section of the rear mount was cracked completely and the other was torn haveway thru. The lateral pads which do not fit with the new mounts were fine on front but toast on rear. Do both if you do the job because the front wasn't that bad to complete
 
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