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Discussion Starter #1
To fit the sub I want, I need to move my passenger seat forward an inch (really 3/4" would do it). I've seen references in other threads to people having done this. Rather than reinventing things, I'd like to see what has worked for other folks first. Here's my current plan:

Rear bolts - Use 1/8" thick, 1" wide bar stock. Drill and tap a hole the size of the bolt for the seat. Thread the bolt into the bar stock, then cut off the head and weld it in place where the head was. That bolt will go up through the existing hole in the seat track (so I'll use a nut on it to hold the seat in place). Then, 1" away on the bar stock, I'll drill a hole. I can use that hole to bolt my new "bracket" into the existing threaded hole in the floor. When mounting, I can bolt the bracket in, leaving the bolt pointing up, then the holes in the seat rail go over the bolt. If a nut won't fit into the rail, I can always use a spacer so the nut goes above the rail. Hope that all makes sense...

Front - I'm hoping I can simply drill a hole 1" back on the rail. I know it would be tight to get a bolt through it (and, honestly, I haven't looked to see how feasible this would be). That would be the simplest option, though.

As a side benefit, the back of the seat moves vertically up 1/8" which will tilt it slightly (I could space the front up too if need be), giving me more room. Anybody done this to know if there's a better way?
 

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Because interior is offset for RHD vs LHD, this would not work, the passenger side is narrower.

I did what the OP did with a pair of straps and a small notch in the console
 

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Which sub are you trying to fit behind the seat? Have you tried putting it on the rear parcel shelf in front of the map pocket?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The sub isn't going behind the seat. I have a box on the shelf and would like to use a different sub, but it won't fit with the seat in the stock position.
And exigegus is right. You can't play that game. I wish it was that easy, but that topic has been discussed many many times with always the same conclusion. Nope.
 

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What sub are you thinking about? I have a custom fiberglass box on the shelf with enough airspace for a shallow mount 10. I currently have the Pioneer, but am upgrading to the JL 10tw3. Even now, I have to a of bass and it's really tight.
 

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Plural of Lotus is Lotus
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Oops, I spend all my time in the drivers seat....No wonder I keep forgetting the passenger seat is off-set. My bad.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Right now, I have a carbon fiber box with a Dayton 10" HO. It's a great sub (happens to be that the ideal enclosure is exactly the .6 cu. ft. I have), but I have a JL 10TW3 on a shelf that I want to try. The problem is that the JL sub has this giant flange and the box is designed to mount the sub recessed. The Dayton fits in the recess (with a 1/2" MDF spacer), but the flange diameter on the JL is way too big. To mount it, I need to make an adapter which allows it to be mounted with the flange completely in front of the lip on the box. Which means it won't fit behind the passenger's seat. If I space the seat forward a bit, I can try it to see if I prefer it over the Dayton.
 

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Is the passenger footwell an option? I have the JL Audio stealthbox from back in the day which is form fitted and an easy install - added a $10 set of speaker protective bars from Amazon to cut down on the wear and tear to the speaker grill. Even through the stealthbox is no longer avail, there should be space for a similar enclosure.
 
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