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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello all,

I know the general topic of lifting the Elise has been discussed to death (read the old threads), but here I am asking yet a few more questions!

So, I bought my 05 Elise last November, and it is now time to do its first oil change.

--I see that Inokinetic makes the Nifty Lifty kit, and it looks like a quick option to get the rear wheels up and jacks or rhino ramps under the rear wheels.....I am going to get it!

https://www.inokinetic.com/lotus/niftylifty

--That said, I do have a lift, and would like to use it for service on the Elise---even oil changes--as I do on my other cars.

Has anyone installed the MWR Lift Point Kit?? It is pricey, but looks like a good solution for me.

https://www.monkeywrenchracing.com/product/mwr-lift-point-kit-lotus-eliseexige2-eleven/

I am used to putting the pads on my lift on specific points of the car frame or suspension, in which case almost the entire pad has contact with a surface. It looks like the pad (for the rear) simply touches the kit's newly installed lift points. Not much surface area there, which has me concerned.


Any experiences with it? How about the installation (some of the pics in the PDF are a bit blurry)??

--Lastly, the hockey puck use comes up all over old threads. Some swear by it, some say it is too smooth a surface and recommend a piece of wood. Thoughts? Looks like I would need that to go on top of my lift pads also???

Thanks......just want to do it right the first time and be ready for future work!!

Julian
 

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OK, I have the MWR lift kit and nifty lifty from Inokinetic. I received a lift a few weeks ago but have yet to put it in use.

The MWR lift point are "small" however being farther back, better balance the load. Elise's have been know to slide off a lift using fore/aft lift points and taking front tires off first...... see attached

Assuming the post is centered to the pad, I'm not personally concerned however I'm sure others will comment
 

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I use the MWR lift kit with my two post all of the time. The car is well balance and gives no feeling of wanting to fall. Getting the main floor pan on and off is very doable but does require some patience. Also, I place metal plates on the lifting pads so that the weight of the post is better distributed. This makes is easier to get the floor pan on and off.

Later,
Eldon
 

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Hopefully you've seen this picture before. Jack point A is at the center of gravity of the car. So, take the wheels off a car on a lift, and it will fall off the lift.



Great if you're jacking one side of the car on the ground because both front and rear wheels lift off the ground at the same time. Not great on the lift.

You could use the MWR lift kit, which I've heard very positive things about, or remove the undertray before lifting the car and use the C lift points. I don't think you can get to D with a lift using the Jack Helper (Nifty Lifty's original name) or with the diffuser removed.

Rubber has twice the friction in contact with aluminum than that of wood. Rubber is better.

However, the stickers that Lotus uses to mark the lift points should be removed. The glue between the sticker and the chassis can sheer, sliding the jack. This is less of an issue if it's on a lift.
 

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I just broke down and installed the mwr lift points a few months ago. Should of done it years ago. I wouldn't be concerned at all about the contact patch of it, its solid metal and well braced. Consider that on cars weighing significantly more, its standard procedure to lift off the pinch welds, which is no where near the surface area of these lift points.

Its SO nice not having to crawl under the car to remove the undertray before lifting. I always used points B and C in the diagram above, and thats stable, but still a bit wobbly(no where near as bad as an old 911!). These lift points are much more stable, and worth it alone for not having to crawl around dealing with the undertray.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
All,

Thanks for the replies!

JF-Thanks.....I have seen that awful picture! It appears from the way the car is angled and the location of the lift arms that they used points B and A, and so, when the front wheels came off, tipped the "balance" out of whack and towards the back causing that mess.

me73--I do have the picture and owner's manual. Just to be clear, removing the wheels can cause the car to tip using points A and B, correct? I assume they CAN come off using points B and C (or D if you can reach them)? Good tips on rubber and the sticker too!


Eldon/Spirit_R--That's the feedback I was looking for on the MWR kit! I just want to drive the car over to my lift, and not have to remove any panels prior to putting it in the air and taking care of maintenance! I assume you use points B and the MWR lift points together then for the most stable solution? Also, how hard was it to install the kit/time required? I assume I will have to crawl under it to install it, and then once done I can get on with putting it on the lift and doing the oil change??

Thanks again,
Julian
 

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Yeah points B and the MWR points. Install is easy, maybe 20 minutes once car is in the air. Can install them with the car on the lift using normal lifting points. When you remove the undertray to put it on the lift, take joy in knowing thats the last time you have to crawl under it to pull the undertray off!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Jon & Spirit-

Thanks.....I'm in! Going to order it this week. I guess maybe, now I think about it, I won't need to get the nifty lifty bar too, as all work done on it will be done on the lift!

OK.....last question....I think.....do you guys have to raise the car just a little for your lift arms to swing under the car (I've seen someone cut 4 pieces of 2x10s I think and drive onto them to raise the whole car just a little)??

Thanks,
Julian
 

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Before I lowered my car, my arms would fit under the car. Since I lowered it, I now have Raceramps that I drive up on. JC Whitney had the best price on them when I was looking.

Later,
Eldon
 

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@knac1234: I built some step up ramps out of 2 layers of 3/4" plywood that I stuff in the trunk when I take the car to a shop. Driving the car up on the little ramps is enough to get the lift arms under the car, at least for the shop I go to. I also know a shop that made these and just keeps them around for customers who arrive in low cars. I can take photos of the ramps if anyone wants them.
 

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So I just ordered the MWR Lift Point Kit based on the very positive reviews here. I was tired of taking off the undertray for simple stuff. To be honest though, I'm REALLY hoping it will allow me to use the QuickJack (https://www.quickjack.com/car-lifts/bl-3500slx/) without resorting to transverse lifting or other shenanigans.
 

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So I just ordered the MWR Lift Point Kit based on the very positive reviews here. I was tired of taking off the undertray for simple stuff. To be honest though, I'm REALLY hoping it will allow me to use the QuickJack (https://www.quickjack.com/car-lifts/bl-3500slx/) without resorting to transverse lifting or other shenanigans.
Please keep us informed if the Quickjack worked with the MWR lift point kit. Thanks
 

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Please keep us informed if the Quickjack worked with the MWR lift point kit. Thanks
I do not (yet) have a QuickJack. But I think the critical factor will the lateral alignment of the MWR lift points with the front lift points (B, in @me73 's picture above). If they are substantially out of alignment (causing the QuickJack arms to not be parallel), lifting will create a torque that could wreak havoc. Good News: Visually, I think it will work. It might be a month or so before I have this in place to try.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Jon_bondy--Please post some pics of your ramps if you can! I will take some measurements and see if my Elise will clear the lift arms as is. May not though if I have to add the hockey puck on the lift arm pads per others' recommendations.

Julian
 

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Jon_bondy--Please post some pics of your ramps if you can! I will take some measurements and see if my Elise will clear the lift arms as is. May not though if I have to add the hockey puck on the lift arm pads per others' recommendations.

Julian
Never use hockey pucks to lift a car if you plan to ever be under it. Too easy to shift and get hurt or killed. I cant stress this enough.
 

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If you have a bendpak style lift with extension tubes you can use them as lift points without the need to remove the undertray first. I actually installed half of the MWR lift point. I only used the flat part to keep the frame from ever so slightly bending in, and then use my bendpak extension tubes to lift it, this way i dont have the added weight and non-aero of the MRW tubes sticking out all the time.

I cut them down and put about 10 coats of plasti-dip for grip, the real plasti-dip that you dip and get really thick.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Quick follow up to my original post.....

I installed the MWR lift point kit. It was easy to install, but for the fact that I installed it with the car still on the ground which required some gumby-like maneuvers to install and tighten everything down.

I finally got the chance to put it on the lift today. It works perfectly, and the undertray is easily reinstalled (it was still off the car) while on the lift.

I guess I just want to reassure anyone looking at this option that it is a simple, but nicely engineered and machined, bit of kit that will make lifting your Elise a piece of cake!

Julian
 

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Appreciate your input.
Can you please share a couple pictures of it?
What model of lift was used?
Thank you so much.
 

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Similar to what others have said, I have the MWR lift kit installed. My additional suggestion is that it should be a standard mod for anyone that owns an elige.
 
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