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Ok it's an easy mod but I always see people asking about it. So I decided to remove the canister, valve and purge solenoid and brackets. All the items with a Red X had to go.
All the vapor emissions all use a push button style quick connect so your finger tip or a small screwdriver will work to push and hen pull apart.
The items you'll need
1. Breather Valve ( I used a universal motorcycle about $10)
2. Emission caps say $3
3. Adapter fitting $2
4. Sealant optional $4
5. 47K Ohm resistors $1
Total 15-20 I guess
The open line that went to the throttle body will have to be caped off. At the time I was doing this I was capping off several ports on the TB at the same time so I purchased a family of end caps and just kept trying till i found the correct one.
To prevent a check engine light you will need to wire in a resistor in place of items 6, and 21. i believe it was about 40k Ohms when I measure them so I used something similar from radio shack.
The adapter used had a 3/16 barb which worked great to attach to the tube that came with the new valve. Before or after you put those together you can try test the valve, I thought mine would be undersized for the application but it was defiantly able to always take in more than enough air (compensate for the fuel you pump out) and would relieve pressure very slowly when it was high enough (deals with high vapor pressure in the tanks when the car is not running).
So, Next Cut Line #10 close to the connector, this leads back to the tank and s what we will attach the breather valve to. I put some RTV on the pipe side threads of my adapter before I spun it inside the breather tube going back to the tank.
Zip tie or secure how ever you like out of the way and your done!

All the vapor emissions all use a push button style quick connect so your finger tip or a small screwdriver will work to push and hen pull apart.
The items you'll need
1. Breather Valve ( I used a universal motorcycle about $10)
2. Emission caps say $3
3. Adapter fitting $2
4. Sealant optional $4
5. 47K Ohm resistors $1
Total 15-20 I guess


The open line that went to the throttle body will have to be caped off. At the time I was doing this I was capping off several ports on the TB at the same time so I purchased a family of end caps and just kept trying till i found the correct one.
To prevent a check engine light you will need to wire in a resistor in place of items 6, and 21. i believe it was about 40k Ohms when I measure them so I used something similar from radio shack.
The adapter used had a 3/16 barb which worked great to attach to the tube that came with the new valve. Before or after you put those together you can try test the valve, I thought mine would be undersized for the application but it was defiantly able to always take in more than enough air (compensate for the fuel you pump out) and would relieve pressure very slowly when it was high enough (deals with high vapor pressure in the tanks when the car is not running).

So, Next Cut Line #10 close to the connector, this leads back to the tank and s what we will attach the breather valve to. I put some RTV on the pipe side threads of my adapter before I spun it inside the breather tube going back to the tank.
Zip tie or secure how ever you like out of the way and your done!
