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Discussion Starter #41
If you paid GRP, shouldn't you take that up with him? It is a handmade part in Asia, so I wouldn't expect it to be quick unless you were told otherwise
I agree and disagree. I will never know the thruth about the real cause of the incredible delay. If the responsability is Hethelsport, based on GRP comment, the fault is Hethel. If the trouble maker is GRP, Hethel must sell direct or find another distributor. If the fault is the Hethel supplier, Hethel must find another one. GRP offer me a month ago to cancel the order if I want. I decided to say OK, continu. They all a time respond to my e-mail. I suppose that the parts are made somewhere in Asia or somewhere else. After 4 months, I think I have the right to think the delay is too long. My fuse was a slow burning type I think.

Maybe I will decide to not deal anymore with GRP also, whatever the source of the parts. I don't know at the moment, it is my seconde purchase with GRP, my first one associated with Hethel.

Few months ago, I had a similar situation with BWR about team dynamics wheel. Fred at BWR is very cool and usefull. spend time to look TD wheel from other source, it was clear, TD are just mixed up. And I continu to do business with BWR because the fault was not him, but clearly TD.
 

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Discussion Starter #42
Have you looked into the outer plus flares? They also seem like a good option
Do you have any experience with them in term of delivery? The website https://garageshimaya.com/ seams not like very adapted to sell oversea or in USA or Canada. The season will start soon, I can not take risk to not have the fender at this point. Reliable supplier is the priority. Now I just wait for the confirmation of the order cancelation from GRP.
 

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I suggest you email them. I had a set mailed to me and shipping was a non issue. Fitment will need some massaging so be warned

Have you looked into the outer plus flares? They also seem like a good option
Do you have any experience with them in term of delivery? The website https://garageshimaya.com/ seams not like very adapted to sell oversea or in USA or Canada. The season will start soon, I can not take risk to not have the fender at this point. Reliable supplier is the priority. Now I just wait for the confirmation of the order cancelation from GRP.
 

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Lotus Evora Specialty
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Discussion Starter #45
I REceived the hethelsport flare kit last Monday. I do not have pics at the moment, I rushed a lot to prepare them to be painted.

As the kit name said, it is not the wide body but a flare kit. At the purchasing, I was conscient that I never saw a specific pics of it, and clear specs. This being said, the kit is not as described and it is very different of the wide body, technically and esthetically. It need to be glue to the body and do not use screws. The kit is more for looking than used to widen the car. The rear fender comes in one piece. I cutted it of course to suit the body split (and I have a tilting body). To be able to fit larger tires, the fender need to be trimmed. With modification, the Hoosier 245 r7 can fit.

After all, I am not fully happy, the product is too much different than the specs, and hethelsport should provide pics since it is completely different than the wide body. It is not build to widen the car. But it is a good side of that, and since my goal was to fit r7 245 tire and not more, the flare will be more subtil and less subject for cups to say that my car is widen, which is not legal on my area... Montreal, Quebec. The mod will look like more like a kit to add look (Japan style too much... ). The fibre job is really nicely done, no comment. After all, it was a bad purchase, but will do the job with all mods I did to it. I should have pics in 9 days, painted and installed. I will try to take pics of the fender as modified before installation.
 

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Discussion Starter #46 (Edited)
Here the pics as modified, painted and installed.

I installed them to the body by using the supplied 2 faces sticker tape, windsheild urethane glue, and pop rivets.

The rear wheels Ethos with a offset as supplied of 20 mm are modified by maching to obtain 20mm + .200 in offset, around 25mm.

The Teams Dynamics Pro race wheels 17x8.5 with Hooseir R7, installed with 3/4 inch shim were passing tight to the flare, but they fits.

The side marker are removed since the wiring may touch the tire and they were not fitting so well, I purchased side marker from BMW 1975-1989 E21 E12 ... waiting to receive it. It may look like old side marker of Lotus Europa...
 

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Lotus Evora Specialty
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Dear elise/europa: We are saddened to hear that you believe the flares do not match the pictures or specifications that we did not send to you. We are also disappointed that your expectations were misaligned with conversations we never had. Unfortunately, we did not sell this kit to you so we have fragmented knowledge on rectifying the situation. Other than that, your car looks great! Good luck.


I REceived the hethelsport flare kit last Monday. I do not have pics at the moment, I rushed a lot to prepare them to be painted.

As the kit name said, it is not the wide body but a flare kit. At the purchasing, I was conscient that I never saw a specific pics of it, and clear specs. This being said, the kit is not as described and it is very different of the wide body, technically and esthetically. It need to be glue to the body and do not use screws. The kit is more for looking than used to widen the car. The rear fender comes in one piece. I cutted it of course to suit the body split (and I have a tilting body). To be able to fit larger tires, the fender need to be trimmed. With modification, the Hoosier 245 r7 can fit.

After all, I am not fully happy, the product is too much different than the specs, and hethelsport should provide pics since it is completely different than the wide body. It is not build to widen the car. But it is a good side of that, and since my goal was to fit r7 245 tire and not more, the flare will be more subtil and less subject for cups to say that my car is widen, which is not legal on my area... Montreal, Quebec. The mod will look like more like a kit to add look (Japan style too much... ). The fibre job is really nicely done, no comment. After all, it was a bad purchase, but will do the job with all mods I did to it. I should have pics in 9 days, painted and installed. I will try to take pics of the fender as modified before installation.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
First drive around the block, in town, slow speed.

The gas pedal cam system works great, it is a very good improvement, almost perfect compromise.

The abs as well as the traction are working. I switched to Carbone Loraine RC6 pads, wow, very agressive friction, work well with the abs. I tried two abs abs adjustment and the difference is not subtil. Great.

The shifter, all running on bearing is better, it was great, now better.

Still a little bit of snow up here, summer is coming.
 

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Discussion Starter #52
The car is set. The first track day in may 11 at Circuit Mont-Tremblant, an high speed track near Montreal. I am using the car on street a little bit. The ABS is amazing, the tires are crying a lot in the most agressive setting. The ABS look like permitting big slip, more than 5%, maybe up to 10%. I am very happy. I was stressed a little bit for the quantity of count into the hub bearing, look like 24 or 25. I will look to add count in the future, I already purchased reluctor disc, 48 teeth for the front, 50 for the rear. Honestly, it is completly crazy to install that kind of ABS that expensive. But, with all money I out on the car, improving lap time with added safety is quite cool.

I am very surprised by the Hondata Traction control, at 10% slip, it sound like perfect and better than what I can do. I will see at the track. It is cheap and look like working great, including in small curve with the throttle open on first gear. My car have an open diff by the way.

Like I said previously, the throttle body link system help a lot to drive the car, a lot more progressive.

Since it was difficult to buy the Team Dynamics wheel 17x9, I went to Ethos from Sector111 (ion.... k, something...). Since the offset is 20mm only, I machined the wheel to move to 25. With the small flare I have, it fit very tight. I will see, but not on may 11, I will drive the car with my end last year slick, mounted on Team Dynamics 17x8.

I will let inform after the track day. The temperature here is very cold. If I reach 1:48, I will be happy. My goal during the summer is moving down to 1:46:5.

Thanks for asking.
 

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Discussion Starter #53
First track done, at very cold temp at 2-4 deg C, around 36 F.

I did only 70 minutes track time since a small tack weld broke on my throttle body linkage. My fault!

Still, the throttle body linkage is just amazing on track, very easy to drive. Just the best thing I did on the car last winter! The traction control set at 10% is very cool and help to control the beast. I am not certain yet for the abs on dry. Maybe my count per turn is not enough, or maybe the tire size not perfectly set on braking. I think the intercooler fan wire just slip out during the sessions, and i lost some boost because of that.

The car was the fastest car that day easily, and I am not full shape yet, easy to drive at 1:48:00 at tremblant. The setting is very good, and on straight, with the lack of boost, the car was faster than a Z06 corvette supercharged 650 hp. Hard to have clear lap since the car is very faster than typical car, like Gt3 Rs, corvette, Nissan GT-R.

Next drive on June 8 on the wonderful track of Calabogie close to Ottawa. My previous best lap time was 2:16:50, which is very very fast.
 

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Discussion Starter #54
Yesterday I spend time to look more the issue of not having full boost at the track, and in the street, I have to admit that I have difficulty to look the boost on street... but more time on track. The trouble for the boost was not the potential fan disconnect. It was the wastegate spring. Last winter I changed the spring for a 5.8 psi instead than the previous 8.7 psi. The target boost is 13.5-14. The boost controller using a three ways valve seems like not able to spread for that much of extra boost over the spr8ng setting. I spend time this week to read about pro and con of a three ways vs a four ways. The con of a three ways is the limitation to increase the boost.

I changed the spring and the boost is as it was last year. I did the switch to a 5.8 psi spr8ng in order to lower the boost on first gear as much as I can. Again, with 9.5 psi (readed on my iPad), the car was faster than a Z06 supercharged corvette 650 hp.
 

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You mentioned reading about 3 vs 4 port boost solenoids, so I'm sure you already know this, but for those who are not familiar, if you're going to use a 3 port solenoid, it's recommended to run a spring pressure of no less than half of your intended max boost pressure. If you want a wider range, switch to a 4 port solenoid.
 

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Discussion Starter #56
You mentioned reading about 3 vs 4 port boost solenoids, so I'm sure you already know this, but for those who are not familiar, if you're going to use a 3 port solenoid, it's recommended to run a spring pressure of no less than half of your intended max boost pressure. If you want a wider range, switch to a 4 port solenoid.

YEs, this was my observation, and more, half is not enough in my case, 8.7 spring for 14 boost is Ok, but the 5.8 was giving 9.6 only. Some spec sheet were saying a ratio of 2 up to 2.5 ratio. I did meet the ratio of 2.

And yes, I mixed way and port, the valve is a 3 ports. I am French and some time I am not writing right.
 

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Discussion Starter #58
I will deal for the moment with the three ports with the set-up as is. When I will need to return to the dyno, I will ask to my tuner what he think about the 4 ports in the real life. I read that the boost is not very very precise with the 4 ports. My tuner probably know more than me on that.

To switch to a 4 ports, the car need probably to go on dyno.

I will try to be smooth on first and second gear since the boost will be higher than my wish. My rear axls are only 57 Rc. But the boost controller is like at off on first gear.
 

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Discussion Starter #59
It sound that I made an error on my estimation of pulse count on bearing hub.

I redo a quick count estmation by using the Traction control on highway on live data mode. Based on that, the count is 46 or 48 per tour, but this is function of the wheel diameter estimation. I will redo the test on June 7 with the slick on a parking lot, the traction control on live data, and real speed with a GPS. My first count estimation was made by looking the pulse indicator on TC board, and it was 25. Maybe this explain the weird feeling of the ABS. For the ABS, it was probably a big mismatch between speed sensor and the G meter. In fact, the real data required is the count per km, and after that, fill data to the abs for the count per turn and wheel perimeter fitting for the count per km. This do not affect TC since the slip is relative. In real life, not all a time easy to do those read out, since on street, the law do not authorise to read PC on car, and 4 points off if the cup give a ticket. I need in this case a passenger to read the data.

During the winter, I use a exhaust blanket from thermo-tec, and this material was able to deal with the heat of the headers on track. I am waiting for the blanket from Heatshield Products, 1/4 thick.
 

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Discussion Starter #60
A good lapping day yesterday. The Abs works fine, but I had a trouble with the traction control, I don’t know yet the reason.

I tried a new insulation material around the headers, look like working great with no deterioration.

I still rusted after 4 years without driving on track, but the car is fast, really fast.

Here the video
 
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