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Discussion Starter #61
I am working on the car, the synchro of the fourth gear broke. It is my first experience with carbone synchro, and the surface just broke on one portion. Was working great, but it broke. Returning to brass synchro.

A5 the same time, I am waiting for a new fuel tank. I was supposed to install the new tank next winter, but since the car is dismounted... an$ the tank was already ordered. The tank will be a pro alloy 54 l, with center fuel pick, and cusomised to suit my level gage. My fuel pump is outside the tank, but I am remov8ng the low pressure one and the surge tank. Better setup and saving aro7ng 15 pounds with same fuel contain.
 

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Discussion Starter #62
By the way, last time I drove the car at Tremblant, I was not the faster car at all. One car passed me like I was stopped, an Aston Martin Vantage GT3 with a V12: 600 hp, 1250 kg.... and lot of downforce.... wow. Plus a street Mercedes GTR 2018 was slightly faster than me (by maybe .2 s) my turbo was loose at the outlet housing plus it was very warn out there, my boost was 12 psi instead than 14, and the driver on the Mercedes was a lot better than me, in fact, it was a professional driver. He was impress by the Lotus and it came to see me! It was cool to see a Mercedes of that cost taking curve on slide at more than 100 mph. The car was on Pilot Cup I guest. I was impress by the driver. The car was faster on straight, slower on curves.

I am driving on a group with very fast car, a lot of GT3 RS, or Corvette supercharged.
 

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Discussion Starter #63
The summer is close to be finish... I still had few small issues during the summer, nothing big, just few like a young baby. A small welding joint broken, a synchro broken, a coolant leak (100% my fault), many issue with the boost level... I have difficulty to stay with my boost of 14 psi. Maybe I have trouble with the valve controller, or maybe with the wastegate spring. I will verify soon if the springs have tendency to loose tension caused by the heat. I ordered a set of springs and I will compare with my old springs. For the moment, my wastegate was not cooled with a coolant circuit, but it is easy to add.

I change many things on the car during the summer, all the electric relays for the rear are now inside the car, I removed the finished firewall wall with the speaker. This improve the access to my electrical stuff. And I relocated the battery (odyssey PC625) on this zone, just at the rear of the driver seat. I need to do something for better looking, the car still used on street. I also changed the fuel thank with a centered pickup, and this allowed me to removed the low pressure pump and the surge tank. My car was already with an external fuel pump and fuel rail.

I will post my electrical diagram this week, it is in PDF now, but I am not able to insert PDF, I don't how, I will switch it in image.

One trackday to come, and after, jobs for the winter:

- changing engine block for a reinforced block with blockguard, and I will be able to see how the engine looks like inside prior to broke it, rebuilding a none-broken engine is cheaper
- weight reduction, last year, the car weight was 2057 lbs, now I am at around 2010, working for another 10 lbs... 2000 lbs looks like a cool target
- improve the aero, splitter improvement, hardtop, etc
- dismounting all suspensions to verify if all sphericals bearing are in good shape... they are there since more than 5-7 years... and improve the bump steer, I just ordered a bump steer gauge, laser type.

Rational... not really.
 

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Discussion Starter #64
Traction control

Last week I was on a bumpy concrete tight race track. Typically I am driving on quite high speed track with smouth surface.

I was very impress by the traction control installed on the car. The TC is from Hondata, using the ABS module output as input, giving an input to the Hondata K-Pro ECU. The TC was set at 10% slip. Wow, wow and wow. As a recall, my car is turbo with around 395 whp. Full throttle on bad surface at curve exit (around 100 kph) with full and quite easy control... The TC is better than me on the kind of surface. I am very impress, around 300$ US for that looking cheap box! Wow and re-wow.

I think my head gasket is by-passing a little bit at full load, I am losing coolant, with air into the coolant circuit. Anyway, I am changing the engine block during the winter for a reinforced one using a block guard. This may help.
 

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Discussion Starter #65
Maybe a project for next year. Custom upright with 10mm drop, able to fit my Wilwood handbrake caliper, and 2 pods caliper. The toe link bolted my M10 bolt double shear and easier adjustment for bump steer. Next summer, the toe link will be the kit by Spitfire supplied by seriously Lotus using M14 rod end supplied by FK (USA based I think). This toe link kit looks great (light, bump steer adjustable, big rod-end with rubber seal, https://www.seriouslylotus.com/suspension-steering/spitfire-toe-link-kits/s2-toyota-toe-link-kit-tapered-uprights), I already have it, but will install it when I will store the car for winter.

By the way, I will review all spherical bearing on my suspension (the car have Monoball joint on wishbone). I searched a lot for Spherical replacement.... and surprise, the bearing are very expensive... they are com-8T. After searching, I found cheaper spherical made by FK (USA) supplied by Summietracing at 9$ each, FKS-8T. Good news... at Pegasus, the spherical bearing were more expensive than a new kit.

Since it will be a lot of only one, I may use student at technical school to machine them in CNC. Front upright 1.5 kg, rear 2.1 kg.
 

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Discussion Starter #67
The around 400 whp is nice on track. A lot on small track, the TC is helping a lot on those track. On fast track, the trouble was the turbo reaction when the car is fully loaded on curve. A small pedal travel was creating a big HP suddently. But with my throttle body driving system I need (pics on previous page), it is wunderfull. This is the big thing I need to improve the car reaction on curve, to manage the power delivery. Of course, the TC is helping, but not critical. The power band is very cool, the car was equipped with a REV 400 few years ago, and the power band with the turbo is perfect, able to take a curve at 5000 with enought power to power slide the rear. The turbo aftercooler is a little bit small, and when ot is very warm, the power level is decreasing a little bit. But, the aftercooler plumbing minimise the turbo lag at the minimum. The car have less lag than my Focus RS, which is not bad.

Here few pics, the car still a street car (and driving in restrictive noise level race track), but on street, I am removing the splitter as well as the rear wing... I am living downtown Montreal. It do not appears on the picture, and the car paint is not ideal with too many years on track, many scratchs every where, and a white car is a pain. I run many wheels sets, Athos or TD. On the smaller pic, the roof is rigid and carbone type, the big picture is with the soft roof.
 

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Discussion Starter #68
On market place, I put used K20 swap Insane Axles, and Eibach spring, 525 & 650
 

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Discussion Starter #69
I just dismounted my engine after 2 years street & lapping use. The head gasket was leaking under full load, the head gasket was a Cometic .030. I will switch to a OEM gasket with a reinforced block (block guard).

The cylinder and piston wear is not bad at all, cool. The piston are Supertech 4032 alu.

Surprise with the clutch, the disc pucks are flaking. Street trafic is not cool for that type of material (ACT AR1-XTG6, XTREME, SPRUNG, 6 PUCKS, disc 6214510). I will stick with this clutch for next year by replacing the disc only.

I change my mind, I ordered my custom rear upright to a local machine shop this morning. Should receive the prototype in January. The upright is made to suit 288 disc (I am using 295 disc), Wilwood handbrake caliper, 2 pods AP caliper, 15 mm axle moved up, upright move 1mm inside the car. I am switching to Spitfire toe arm kit, the upright is made to accomodate it. I wish I did not miss up with the measurement. I will see at assembly with the bump steer adjustability.
 

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Discussion Starter #72
Rebuilt engine back in car, using the new K tuned belt tensioner to improve the access to intake screws. Plus, the new tensioner is reducing the weight by around 2.7 pounds... side effect.
 

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Discussion Starter #73
Yesterday I finally installed a small gadget into my car, a light to see a fuel tank mid-level just beside the fuel cap. It is a small switch to activate the light.

Last summer, I switched to a Pro alloy fuel tank with a center pick-up to be able to remove the fuel surge tank and low pressure pump circuit. Removing the surge tank and the low pressure for simplicity and to reduce the car weight. Beside of that, the pro alloy fuel tank is lighter, but the capacity is increased to 54 L, way too much for my need on track. The tank was made with a small hole on the low deck to insert a float switch to indicate that the tank is filled for a certain fuel capacity. In fact, the float switch turn on the light at around 37 liters.

Another small change: I switched the location of the windsheild washer tank. Since the car is used on street, I am trying to have the car streetable on my area, and windsheild washer is usefull. But with the K20, turbo plumbing and all, the tank was into the trunk. To be able to lift up the rear clam, it was required to remove everytime the tank. I switched the battery into the car last summer. Now it is only one hardness going to the trunk is for lighting. Now the windsheild washer tank is moved just in the front of the left rear wheel, accessible from the side scoop to fill it.
 

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Discussion Starter #74
Two mounths ago, I installed new front upright from eliseparts, and with the arm kit to be able to adjust the bump steer. The streering was lift up with the 10 notch spacer, recenter perfrectly, and the arm installed with minimum shim. No bump steer on both side and no bump steer as a result. Wow, and light, and I guess rigit. It is a weight saving of 2 pound per side, and permit to add preload on suspension since the axle is moved 16 mm up.

Last friday i just received my custom rear upright, I was a little bit stressed to see if I miss something. The fit is perfect, and allow easy adjustment of the bump streer, and the result is no bump steer... wow. I decided to go with custom upright to meet all the specs I want which are: 15 mm axle moved up; suit Wilwood handbrake caliper; retain OEM rear disc (mine are not, but close); suit 2 pods caliper (mine have smaller pistons than front, same body); fit with Spitfire toe link which is using big 14 mm rod end; bump streer asjustment, and weight saving, 2 pounds per side. Very happy with the fitting. I don't know if it may have interest for a kind of group buy for that kit, I may check. The Wilwood handbrake is a big weight saving and works better than OEM, plus it is very cheap. But the handbrake cable needs to reduce on pilot, and the lever need to be fit by welding the OEM lever to the Wilwood cutted lever. But the result is cool, the car is running with that caliper at the rear since a year.

I saved more than 80 pounds on the car since last year.

Summer is coming, it will be long!
 

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Discussion Starter #78
How to answer to that! I have a strong reflex to move the helmet to the direction I am going... I did too much race bike and it is like natural. My seats are corbeau with more support, but not full race since it is a street car. The seat belt is a five point, maybe more should be nice. But for sure, I don’t have to reset my position when I am driving, which was not the case with the oem seat.

In theory on bike, the head should stay parallel to the ground, but in really, with big g on curve, the bike is too low with too much angle to have the head parallel t the ground.

HO
Dudde get a proper seat and harness and next restraint.It is worth more time then another 100 horsepower is.
 

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If you are already wearing a 5 point there I think it is not correct. Is the shoulder position right? is it tight? Does that seat have harness holes?

If so add a HND to increase the support on your shoulders and hold your helmet still a little better.
 

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Discussion Starter #80
short update of the car... the car is going well in general with small troubles... but still few isssues. I had few small issue like breaking a CV boot.

I had one bigger problem with the turbo manifold, it crack at 75% close to the turbo flange, and this manifold was new from this winter. It started to break after less than 6 hours on track. I was thinking about a small gasket leak, but the leak started to be bigger and bigger... I decided to change the gasket between the head and the manifold to realise that the cause was the manifold itself. The turbo is installed without gasket directly to the manifold and tack welded. I had a repaired one on stock, the switch was quick to do. The broke one will become the spare one.

Another issue I have is about the brake. I am using the CL RC6 pads, I like the way it brake... but I have issue with brake oil bowling temperature. I am using Motul RBF660 oil, not bad at all. The oil is on the car since maybe 2 months now, I had bowling issue few times. I will change the oil this week. I think the cause is not the oil, but maybe the brake pads itself. Since the RC6 pads are metallic, I think they transfer the heat to the caliper piston easily. Ceramic stuff give more insulation barrier than metallic. This happens on high speed track where I am able to reach more than 225 km/h with many places with more than 180 km/h brake zone. The car is powerfull, and the brake do not keep up. I am using Alcon 295x28 front disc and Alcon 295x25 rear disc. I will try at the end of august on the same track Hawk DTC60 pads. I will see there.
 
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