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Thanks!! Fixed it in a minute.

OK, so at 400 miles my driver's side window does the same thing -- stopping about 3/4 inch from top. I had also been noticing a rattle in the door when the window was down completely -- now obvious that it was the loose screw. Searched the forum, found the thread, fixed it in a minute.

Thanks Randy for hosting this forum and thanks guys (and gals) for your thoughtful and clear documentation of these kinds of fixes. It is amazingly gratifying to have a community like this to turn to!!
 

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I love this forum. My window developed this problem for the second time. The first time was the day I took delivery. Dealer fixed it. The second time was 1 hour ago. I am 3 hours from the nearest dealer and figured I was going to spend that much time figuring out how to fix it myself. 1 minute to search the forum, 5 minutes to read this thread and 30 seconds to fix the problem with a screw driver. The funny part was the only flashlight in my house that worked was the one that came with my BMW. Thanks for your help.
 

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I love this forum :clap:

this thread deserve a bump :up:
 

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I did this yesterday.:up:thank you.
 

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Okay, I hate to be a buzzkill here, but I've just noticed the bulge in my driver's side "rubber thingy", but the screw at the other end of the door is not loose. Furthermore, I can't even loosen it because it seems too tight, and I don't want to strip the phillips head out of it.

So, should I start taking the door panel off and investigating other loose screw possibilities?
 

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I don't know that this problem is necessarily associated with the power windows..
I don't know if crank windows are immune to it or not, but I've never heard of a crank window with the problem. Then again, it doesn't happen to all cars, and there are so few crank window cars, that maybe it just hasn't happened yet... :shrug:
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Okay, I hate to be a buzzkill here, but I've just noticed the bulge in my driver's side "rubber thingy", but the screw at the other end of the door is not loose. Furthermore, I can't even loosen it because it seems too tight, and I don't want to strip the phillips head out of it.

So, should I start taking the door panel off and investigating other loose screw possibilities?


Here's what I would do:

1-Don't get scared, it's not as bad as you might think. There's not a lot in there, so there's not much that can go wrong. Make small adjustments, and anything that you might adjust incorrectly you can always undo.

2-Check your window while it's rolled all the way up. Can the window be adjusted back (towards the rear of the car) a bit? Or tilted (so that the part of the window closest to the front of the car is lower) a bit?

3-Pull the door panel off, check post 14 in this thread for a quick rundown.

4-In post 4 of this thread there are some photos. I apologize for my lack of clarity--I was hoping to be thorough but I think it turned out just muddy. Here's what you need to know:
To adjust the window's tilt (bring the front of the window down) look for the screws circled in green. There are two of them, and this is what I would try first (it's easiest).
To adjust the window's position back or forward look for the screws circled in red. There are three of them. If I remember correctly (and I almost never do) this is the adjustment I needed to make.


Good luck, bro. If you need any clarification please ask and I'll answer as quickly as possible.
 

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Awesome, thanks so much for the advice.

I was actually more scared of removing the panel, because I had tried it once before but bailed due to not being able to get the plastic button to come off the rear of the door. But based upon your Post 14, I now see to slide the panel and leave the button back there - very valuable information indeed!
 

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I was able to remove the door panel and adjust the 5 locations you specified and removed the bulge in the rubber gasket.

However, my window still "teeters" slightly back and forth along the diagonal rail that supports the window assembly. I've attached your image with red arrows indicating the motion I'm describing.

I wasn't able to eliminate this teetering with any of the 5 adjustments. While the bulge is gone, the top of the window still does not make full contact with the rubber seal at the roof like the passenger side does. Maybe that's as good as it gets?

 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Hey - sorry for the long response time.


If you mean that the back of the window teeters down while the front goes up (and back and forth) then I think those green-circled screws _should_ correct the teetering--They hold the bottom channel (that the window sits in) to the frame that's attached to the vertical rails. Or maybe the window needs to be seated better in the channel?

If you mean that the back of the window teeters out away from car while the front goes in (and back and forth) then that may be normal. I know that I can hear my window rattle in the door a bit when it's rolled down (but when rolled up it's firmly in place, even with the door open).

Regarding the window making contact with the rubber seal on top: All the way at the bottom of the door are 2 holes with screws in them. The are below (i.e. closer to the ground than) the door panel that you took apart to get to the other window parts. When you open your door you can see them, one towards the front and one towards the rear.

Those screws adjust the tilt of the window by pushing and pulling the bottom of the vertical(ish) rails, moving the top of the window in the opposite direction. Each one is threaded half clockwise and half counter-clockwise and is screwed into the door and the rail, so that as you back it out of the hole-in-the-door it's also backing out of the hole-in-the-rail. I don't remember whether it's clockwise or counter, but you want the screw to go more into the door. Be careful, because there's nothing stopping you from unscrewing it from the door or the rail (don't ask how I know...).


I'm mainly using my (shoddy) memory for reference, and I know that I can be a bit wordy and vague. If any of this needs clarification or if you want to me check something against how it looks on mine, let me know.

Good luck!
 

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Thanks. The teetering I'm attempting to describe is the entire window assembly (glass plus horizontal metal bracket at the bottom of the glass) pivoting against the diagonal metal bracket that it slides against when rolling up and down. So, no matter how tight those screws are that hold the assembly together, the entire assembly still teeters back and forth against the diagonal rail.

For reference, the source of the arrows I drew in the picture originate from both sides of the diagonal rail I'm talking about, and the arrow heads describe the direction of movement, although not to that extreme.

I'll take a look at those screws in the bottom of the door. I've seen some warnings about losing them in the door if you're not careful, so I'm a little skiddish about those...
 

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1/4 inch gap

My passenger window didn't meet the softtop very well. It was about 1/4 inch shy.

It turns out that the adjustment mechanism inside the door had loosened up in the last year. I opened the door panel and moved the bolt back to the correct position and then tightened the lock nut.

Thanks for all the advice. I see that there is a photo in post 32 of the adjustment mechanism. I am also including a photo that shows basiscally just the one screw/nut that you need to adjust.
 

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Window

I took delivery of my storm 2006 Elise on saturday(12th) . The car had 187 miles on it . I drove it from Hollywood (really) to San Diego. I will pick it up this next weekend and drive it home to Sonoma county. I put the top on it and the drivers window is a 1/2 inch to 3/4 inch short . I will try the top screw and hope tightening will some how allow it to close . I am 300 lbs and 6 5" I have lost 65 lbs in the last 4 months and plan to lose another another 60. My hips , from the bolsters , where they dug in hurt and I had trouble making a u turn as I could not rotate the steering wheel because my hands run into the top of my legs. That being said What a car! Thanks for the posts.
 

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Window

David Graig I can not tell which nut you adjust from your picture and there is one missing screw. Is the nut the one ant the bolt at the angle that appears to be not tightened down or up?
 

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Anyone know how to get the window to go up? The screw in picture was tight so that fix did not work.
Try adjusting the window stopper which controls how far the window will go up.
In the last picture you can see it in the center. It's the threaded rod with the nut and the plastic cap.
You'll have the take off the door trim to get to it, but that's very easy to do.
Just remove the bolts from the trim and it will come right off (there is one bolt on the very front by the door handle which can easily be missed).

It is very obvious what needs to be adjusted once you have the trim off.
 
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