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Better picture

Hope this picture is clearer.


Step 1 - Remove the door panel.

On my 2009 Elise this involved removing the 4 screws on the door using the Allen key from the toolkit.

Then there was one more screw at the front bottom of the door panel.

Then grab the door panel at the top and pull gently. The power window connector comes loose.

Then grab the door panel at the bottom and pull gently. Two velcro strips at the bottom come loose.

Finally slide the door panel towards the front of the car. There is one plastic tab or hook at the bottom rear of the panel that slides free and comes loose.


Step 2 - Adjust the nut that is highlighted in blue

Loosen the nut.

Turn the bolt by hand. The window needs to be lowered a bit first otherwise you cannot turn the bolt by hand.

When you are happy with the position of the bolt, then you tighten the nut again.

In my case I have power windows so I had to keep attaching and detaching the power window control to move the window around as I was testing it. Probably much easier if you have manual windows.
 

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Mackinaugh, thank you . Window goes all the way up now. The bolt with the threads is attached to the white plastic window limit pieces so you can turn either part. The screw on the 90 degree turn on the trim edge on the lower corner in front of the handle (engine side) expands a plastic pin that fits in the hole. I spent the most time thinking I was missing the screw hole because the screw kept falling out and I thought I was missing the hole until I found the insertion pin on the floor. Thank you David Craig!
 

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I experienced the OP's exact problem yesterday at about 2,000 miles. I wish I'd checked this thread first; but I learned how to remove the door panel, and remove the window switch. I also found that fishing for the 8mm socket I lost in the bowels of the door is useless.

Anyway, I can now go back with some Loctite and fix the prob.

I'd appreciate a suggestion for goo to re-stick the clear plastic sheet to the door frame securely with.

Update 11/5/10: My root problem turned out to be the screw like Mackinaugh's #5 picture, reached through the weatherstrip from above, but at the front of the door below the side mirror. Mine had loosened a couple of turns on both doors, but only the psngr side was binding up the window.

Thanks!
 

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I experienced the OP's exact problem yesterday at about 2,000 miles. I wish I'd checked this thread first; but I learned how to remove the door panel, and remove the window switch. I also found that fishing for the 8mm socket I lost in the bowels of the door is useless.

Anyway, I can now go back with some Loctite and fix the prob.

I'd appreciate a suggestion for goo to re-stick the clear plastic sheet to the door frame securely with.

Thanks!
When I opened my door panel the "goo" that holds the clear plastic sheet was able to hold the sheet again without any problem. So I didn't need any more or different "goo".
 

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My plastic sheet did not re-stick so well. I'll probably go back in there with some silicone weatherstrip adhesive, and also hit the Velcro fasteners at the bottom of the door panel, which aren't holding on that well, either.

Thanks David,

When I opened my door panel the "goo" that holds the clear plastic sheet was able to hold the sheet again without any problem. So I didn't need any more or different "goo".
 

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My Window Wouldn't Roll DOWN...

It seems that I had the opposite problem of everyone here. I was concerned that a screw in the guide rail backed out and was blocking the window. I pulled the door panel and looked around the best I could but was getting nowhere. With it getting late I gave up and put everything back together.

Today I decided to tackle this again. After a bit of head scratching I removed the two nuts circled in green (image compliments of mackinaugh). I then pulled the bracket away from the screws and and hit the down button. The bracket went up and down properly. I reattached the bracket to the bottom of the window and it automagically started working again. The screws in the window guides were never an issue. I did try to give them a bit of a twist for good measure.



FYI, the reason I mentioned working on this twice is that I thought I would be smart and locktite the nuts that hold the window switch to the door panel. The second time I worked on the door the locktite held and the screws came out of the button housing.
 

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It seems that I had the opposite problem of everyone here. I was concerned that a screw in the guide rail backed out and was blocking the window. I pulled the door panel and looked around the best I could but was getting nowhere. With it getting late I gave up and put everything back together.

Today I decided to tackle this again. After a bit of head scratching I removed the two nuts circled in green (image compliments of mackinaugh). I then pulled the bracket away from the screws and and hit the down button. The bracket went up and down properly. I reattached the bracket to the bottom of the window and it automagically started working again. The screws in the window guides were never an issue. I did try to give them a bit of a twist for good measure.



FYI, the reason I mentioned working on this twice is that I thought I would be smart and locktite the nuts that hold the window switch to the door panel. The second time I worked on the door the locktite held and the screws came out of the button housing.
Got the same problem for a few days now : the driver side window can't roll down, moving for about 5-10mm en then stops, as if something was going through the way of the window.
I'm french so I hope I've understood all your explainations to solve that problem.
Let me know...
Take the panel off, easy, I did it yesterday, took me 3mn.
If I'm right, you take the whole stuff circled in green off (srew & nut) and try to roll the window down again, that's it ?
When you put nuts and screws back in place, did you do it when the window was a bit down to be sure it won't be blocking again ?
If I've understood everything, all I finally have to do is to loose and tighten the "green" nuts to make my window rool down properly again ?

Please, tell me I'm right... :bow:
 

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Got the same problem for a few days now : the driver side window can't roll down, moving for about 5-10mm en then stops, as if something was going through the way of the window.
I'm french so I hope I've understood all your explainations to solve that problem.
Let me know...
Take the panel off, easy, I did it yesterday, took me 3mn.
If I'm right, you take the whole stuff circled in green off (srew & nut) and try to roll the window down again, that's it ?
When you put nuts and screws back in place, did you do it when the window was a bit down to be sure it won't be blocking again ?
If I've understood everything, all I finally have to do is to loose and tighten the "green" nuts to make my window rool down properly again ?

Please, tell me I'm right... :bow:
Funny you should bring this up. My window is stuck again. Probably because of stiffer motor mounts and slightly more vibration on that side of the car. This time I will be using Locktite.

I will have to refresh my memory but yes, those should be the only two nuts you have to adjust. You may only need to loosen the them and play with the adjustment. Also, the screws are machined to the metal bracket holding the glass so they will not come off.
 

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They won't come of : like it, I won't have to find it down into the door. :D
OK, so juste take of the two nuts circled in green on the picture and test ifd the window can move normally ?
I suppose that to be sure of the good adjustment, I should put the two nuts back in place with the window half way down, right ?
 

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They won't come of : like it, I won't have to find it down into the door. :D
OK, so juste take of the two nuts circled in green on the picture and test ifd the window can move normally ?
I suppose that to be sure of the good adjustment, I should put the two nuts back in place with the window half way down, right ?
Nope, the screws will not come off and fall down in the door. The nuts on the other hand...they're just like any other nut. Even if you do drop something in the door it should be easy to recover.

And like I mentioned before, I need to refresh my memory on how I did it the first time. I think I had everything loose and ran the bracket up before tightening. Basically if one method doesn't work try the other. I will be working on my as well this weekend.
 

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Had a persistent problem with my window getting hung up on something and not going all the way up sometimes. Had the door apart many times and finally found the root problem after removing the glass to replace a stripped out adjusting block on the rear bottom of the guide rail.

What I found was the upper rear white plastic block glued to the glass (shown in pic 4, post #4 with red arrow) was coming in contact with the head of bolt # 24 (securing rear of side impact beam) the bolt had backed out or was not installed properly catching the white plastic guide block when going up and down, bolt 24 is very difficult to see and even harder to get at with weather stripping and glass in place.

Sorry for not taking pics of the operation to share but the parts diagram shows the location of the offending bolt. A well adjusted elise door and window is a happy one. FYI the screws used on the Elise are not phillips, they look like it but are Pozi a PZ#2 fits the screws perfectly and makes working on the elise easier.
 

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ok, this is the third and hopefully last time I will have to do this repair. It seems that with certain adjustments, the torque of the electric windows are able to cause the nuts to shift. Lock washers may fix this but once I saw what worked and what didn't I took it to the extreme.

I found that by loosening the two nuts (circled in green, thanks again to mackinaugh for this image) and lifting up the back side of the window (roughly near the blue dot), the window functioned properly. This teetering effect is mentioned by mhouston23 in post #32.


Here are a couple of closeups of how much play there is within the hole for the screw.

Before:

After:


To make sure the screw would never shift again I took a piece of metal strapping and drilled a 11/64" hole in it. I then put it in place, adjusted and tightened the window and then marked the metal strapping for bending.


Once I had it marked I bent it and trimmed away the excess.



I haven't checked my window for water seal. Right now I'm just happy that is actually goes up and and down properly.

By the way, mackinaugh's photo is a driver side door. All of mine are from the passenger side.
 

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AWESOME thread.. Thanks for all the info.. helped out immensely. One note though... if you take those nuts off and still doesn't move, slide the bracket off the screw and roll the window down (the motor should just move the arm down. Then wiggle the window and try to gently push it down, should break free from whatever was hindering the motion. Roll the window up not all the way though, the bracket will just push the window up. Put the motor bracket back on, tighten nuts and you should be all set.
 

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Just fixed my non-rolling down window last week. Feelsgoodbro.jpeg.

Now I just need to fix my AC blower problem, get rid of the resistor, wire it up to blow only on a single speed, then that problem will be solved.
 
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