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my window wouldn't go all the way up. I tried tighten the screw on #5 but that didn't help at first. At wiggled the window a lot and eventually it went all the way up but now it won't go down. It moves about 1/2" on the back part of the window, but that's it. The front of the window doesn't seem to Any suggestions? I tried loosening the bolts in pic#3 but didn't help
Thanks!
 

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Hi my window stopped 1/2" short of closing. Found that the philips screw holding the glass rail came loose and interfered with glass clamp. The screw is screwed into what feels like a rubber grommet; it doesn't completely tighten. Tighten gently to avoid cutting the thread. Anyway it is not necessary to remove the leather door panel to access; reach from the top. But don't drop the screw, I loosened a little and applied threadlocker just a dab, avoid touching the weatherstripping or the rail. Then put lithium grease along the rail.
Sometimes, the windows goes up. The way to find if this is the problem, is that when window goes fully up, and lower the window, you will feel/hear a slight 'detent' just at that point when it gets stuck.
 

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my window wouldn't go all the way up. I tried tighten the screw on #5 but that didn't help at first. At wiggled the window a lot and eventually it went all the way up but now it won't go down. It moves about 1/2" on the back part of the window, but that's it. The front of the window doesn't seem to move. Any suggestions? I tried loosening the bolts in pic#3 but didn't help
Thanks!
Any suggestions?
 

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I had a similar problem, the front track is held by a screw just as the rear track and is located below and behind the side view mirror, same as the rear only a little harder to get at. You will first have to get the window down to access the screw for tightening. If more wiggling doesn't work you will need to remove the door panel... loosen the lift bracket from the window...a little more jacking with the window and hopefully it will come down. BTW those screws are #2 pozi


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 

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bump for pictures
 

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I know that I have had the door cards off, because I changed from black to biscuit. I just can't remember, and if I was smart enough to take pictures, i don't know where they are. Damned ADD.

I am finally getting around to looking why my right window is off the track. Post 41 may help, but I'd love it if someone would post more pics of R&R.
 

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ok, this is the third and hopefully last time I will have to do this repair. It seems that with certain adjustments, the torque of the electric windows are able to cause the nuts to shift. Lock washers may fix this but once I saw what worked and what didn't I took it to the extreme.

I found that by loosening the two nuts (circled in green, thanks again to mackinaugh for this image) and lifting up the back side of the window (roughly near the blue dot), the window functioned properly. This teetering effect is mentioned by mhouston23 in post #32.


By the way, mackinaugh's photo is a driver side door. All of mine are from the passenger side.
i don't think I have a problem with those nuts. Rather the whole window structure including the metal parts which are supposed to be one ridged structure with the glass seem to be so. The problem is that the grey plastic part of that structure which is supposed to move up and down on the fixed-to-the-door part without any side play is not preventing a rotation there like it ought. This is just to the right of your red circle, of course.

I think I know why. There is a screw (pix to come) which runs parallel to the longitudinal axis of the car. It is located in the area where the mirror is mounted. On the right door, this screw was not screwed all the way and the glass was running into it. This forced the window to rotate down at the front. Unfortunately, this has loosened the plastic part's grip on the vertical guideway. Now I can rotate the window around by hand. I figured this all out by comparing the right side to the left with the door cards off.

I think i am going to live with it. Some closed-cell foam in the bottom of the door may kill the rattle. The window seems to sit solid on the hardtop when closed.

Wish I was a whole lot less ADD and had caught this sooner. Not interested in taking the whole door apart to replace that piece.

More later.
 

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In my case I have power windows so I had to keep attaching and detaching the power window control to move the window around as I was testing it. Probably much easier if you have manual windows.
If you remove the switch from the door card, you can install the switch on the naked door and use it for testing. Pix to come.
 

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If you remove the switch from the door card, you can install the switch on the naked door and use it for testing. Pix to come.
My car is a 2005 Elise

I removed the door cards. First the four screws on the top
IMG_6014 by philethier, on Flickr

The remove the screw and its attendant plastic plug from the lower front corner
IMG_6006 by philethier, on Flickr
IMG_6007 by philethier, on Flickr



Carefully pull the bottom of the card to separate the velcro. Then slide the card to the REAR to release the clip located at the back of the card

IMG_6015 by philethier, on Flickr

Unplug the electric switch.

Now you have the card free, use a screwdriver to carefully release the switch from the card

IMG_6026 by philethier, on Flickr
IMG_6030 by philethier, on Flickr
Yes, I took a nap and failed the check THE SCREW until now.
IMG_6002 by philethier, on Flickr
IMG_6004 by philethier, on Flickr

Plug the switch into the door so you can test-run the window.

IMG_6033 by philethier, on Flickr

That's all for tonight. Any questions, let me know.
 

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Hello All! I have an issue that may be different than those above and would love your thoughts. My 2010 Evora driver window does not go all the way up, unless I'm sitting in the car and use the window button to make it go up. So when I get out of the vehicle, the window drops 1/4 inch and I have no way of getting back up to the top to create a good seal. We no longer have a Lotus Dealer/Service Center in Portland Oregon. So that is not an option for service.....So I'm trying to figure it out myself. I have tried the reset, I looked for the screw in the window compartment but can't see to locate it. Are the instructions above for an Evora?

Any thoughts? Thanks!!!
 

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Thanks for the assist with this. It was the screw mackinaugh found.
Fixed!!
- The rear rail has a screw on the top of it that can be accessed from the top. It doesn't seem to adjust anything, but if it's loose it will cause you grief.
That was my issue, but the screw wasn't loose. That screw holds the rail that guides the rear side of the glass as it goes up and down. There are 2 nylon sliders on the glass, and one of them was bumping into a bolt. I loosened that screw, used a flat-head screwdriver to pull the guide in towards the interior of the car, and held it there while tightening the screw again. That was enough.

The clearance between the sliders and those bolts isn't great. I suspect I'll be in there again someday, and I think I'll file down the slider if I have to do this again.
 
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