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Discussion Starter #1
I was driving today and there was a burning plastic smell out of no where. No smoke, just a burning plastic smell. In addition, shifting was very hard as it would seem to slip out of gear around 3, 4th and 5th. I would already be in gear and it would rev, but move and still rev. It only has around 7k in miles.

Any ideas/
 

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I was driving today and there was a burning plastic smell out of no where. No smoke, just a burning plastic smell. In addition, shifting was very hard as it would seem to slip out of gear around 3, 4th and 5th. I would already be in gear and it would rev, but move and still rev. It only has around 7k in miles.

Any ideas/
What Year ?
Model ?
6 speed or IPS ?
 

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Was it expensive to fix?
I was quoted $1800 to $2000 at the shops near me to fix the master cylinder when the issue cropped up. I ended up spending the weekend doing it myself. $350 for the part and I outsourced the clutch bleed for $150. BOE has a good guide on their website if you want to undertake that. Make sure you buy an aftermarket cylinder from GRP or BOE since the OEM is highly prone to failure.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I was quoted $1800 to $2000 at the shops near me to fix the master cylinder when the issue cropped up. I ended up spending the weekend doing it myself. $350 for the part and I outsourced the clutch bleed for $150. BOE has a good guide on their website if you want to undertake that. Make sure you buy an aftermarket cylinder from GRP or BOE since the OEM is highly prone to failure.
That's a bit over my pay grade. I called the service center in NJ, and they think it's the clutch and quoted 9k to replace the clutch. Anyone know of any other options in the NY/NJ area?
 

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That's a bit over my pay grade. I called the service center in NJ, and they think it's the clutch and quoted 9k to replace the clutch. Anyone know of any other options in the NY/NJ area?
I would absolutely start with the master cylinder first since its a common issue and will save you lots of money if that is what is indeed the problem. $9k does seem very pricey for a clutch change. I think the average is about $6-7k. Was it Lotus who quoted this amount?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I would absolutely start with the master cylinder first since its a common issue and will save you lots of money if that is what is indeed the problem. $9k does seem very pricey for a clutch change. I think the average is about $6-7k. Was it Lotus who quoted this amount?
It was RS Motorsports. Great work, but very expensive and he cannot see me for a few months as well. I am also wondering if the clutch work would be covered under Lotus due to the service bulletin released a few years ago (attached).
 

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Unfortunately, service bulletins aren't recalls or warranty extensions, so it's unlikely.

Your failure sounds more like the clutch to me personally than the MC. MC failures I would generally expect to go the "other way" - in that you can't disengage the clutch. It sounds like your clutch can't be engaged.
 

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hdho 1 is spot on about changing the slave cylinder 1st. It's relatively inexpensive, that crappy slave cylinder has some plastic components that are subject to melting (ring a bell?), and it's going to need replacement soon anyway. My 2012 has a Wilwood unit that should last two lifetimes, but you need to adjust it for the cruise control to work. If it turns out you still need a new clutch, then you haven't lost anything by changing the slave cyl first.
 

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hdho 1 is spot on about changing the slave cylinder 1st. It's relatively inexpensive, that crappy slave cylinder has some plastic components that are subject to melting (ring a bell?), and it's going to need replacement soon anyway. My 2012 has a Wilwood unit that should last two lifetimes, but you need to adjust it for the cruise control to work. If it turns out you still need a new clutch, then you haven't lost anything by changing the slave cyl first.
Believe you are meaning the master .. ie the cylinder connected to the pedal
 
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To the OP, are you saying that driving in a high gear, and your foot not on the clutch pedal, you can rev up the engine without increasing road speed?
 

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To the OP, are you saying that driving in a high gear, and your foot not on the clutch pedal, you can rev up the engine without increasing road speed?
Yes OP seems to say slipping while already in a gear. The only way this could be clutch master or slave cylinders would be if they are holding clutch particularly disengaged. Is that the issue with those of you that had a cylinder failure.
 

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I was quoted $1800 to $2000 at the shops near me to fix the master cylinder when the issue cropped up. I ended up spending the weekend doing it myself. $350 for the part and I outsourced the clutch bleed for $150. BOE has a good guide on their website if you want to undertake that. Make sure you buy an aftermarket cylinder from GRP or BOE since the OEM is highly prone to failure.
That's quite an expensive quote. Mine was repaired at my Lotus dealer under warranty but on the service order it was listed out $800 for parts and labor. Most will tell you it is a clam off job, it is not. Dropped the car off late in the day and picked it up early afternoon next day. If it ever fails again I will definitely be going aftermarket with BOE's or Gregs options.

I would get the car in and have them diagnose it. When my MC failed I did not have the typical symptoms of a MC failure (spongy clutch pedal or dropping to the floor) and I too thought it was the actual clutch going out. I had severe slippage and climbing rev's when accelerating, ya know typical clutch going out symptoms. As it turned out for me the MC was not relieving pressure and causing a cascade effect down the line.
 

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That's a bit over my pay grade. I called the service center in NJ, and they think it's the clutch and quoted 9k to replace the clutch. Anyone know of any other options in the NY/NJ area?
You withhold important info.

Where in NJ? N? S? What?

Yes, I know places.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Yes OP seems to say slipping while already in a gear. The only way this could be clutch master or slave cylinders would be if they are holding clutch particularly disengaged. Is that the issue with those of you that had a cylinder failure.
I am already in gear and driving and it just revs. My foot is not touching the clutch. I've been driving a manual for 20+ years, never destroyed a clutch. RS Motorsports serviced it not too long ago and all was good. So, no idea what's going on.
 

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I am already in gear and driving and it just revs. My foot is not touching the clutch. I've been driving a manual for 20+ years, never destroyed a clutch. RS Motorsports serviced it not too long ago and all was good. So, no idea what's going on.

Read my post above. I had the exact symptoms and mine was the MC. Much easier and cheaper than a clutch job. :grin2: I hope that is the case with yours as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Read my post above. I had the exact symptoms and mine was the MC. Much easier and cheaper than a clutch job. :grin2: I hope that is the case with yours as well.
I hope so. I called two mechanic shops that I was referred to, no return calls yet.

Years ago, the master cylinder went in my Mustang. I was still able to drive, but the breaks were shot. I had to use my emergency break to stop. This is much different. However, that was an auto, not manual transmission. I do not recall a burning smell though. This was 20+ years ago.
 
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