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Discussion Starter #1
I am in the process of doing a full brake job on my Elise and I cannot get the retaining screw out that holds the rotor on. I have applied some PB Blaster but the chance of it getting all the way back to the threads in improbable. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I an just about ready to just grind the head of the screw right off.:mad:
 

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Before you grind or drill the screw, have you tried an impact driver for screws like this one? Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices These drivers will usually loosen a stubborn screw with little effort.
Yep, what he said.

And while you are at it, throw away the PB Blaster (Liquid Wrench, WD-40, etc.) and buy some Kroil from KanoLabs.com the stuff will really work unlike PB Blaster. Seriously, I never believed the recommendations, and when I finally bought some, I was kicking myself for all those years of using the other junk. Get some Kroil.
 

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You can try Craftsman screw out, but you should just drill it out and buy some new ones. That is what I ended up doing (Thanks Ed)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I was able to get the fronts out with a similar small imopact gun but the rears had to be burred out because I ended up stripping hte hex head. Of course after I ground almost all the screw head off then it finally broke loose. I will jsut have to pick up a few new ones.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I was able to get the fronts out with a similar small impact gun but the rears had to be burred out because I ended up stripping the hex head. Of course after I ground almost all the screw head off then it finally broke loose. I will jsut have to pick up a few new ones.
 

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Yep, what he said.

And while you are at it, throw away the PB Blaster (Liquid Wrench, WD-40, etc.) and buy some Kroil from KanoLabs.com the stuff will really work unlike PB Blaster. Seriously, I never believed the recommendations, and when I finally bought some, I was kicking myself for all those years of using the other junk. Get some Kroil.
Thanks, Tim. I just ordered some.
 

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I used Kroil to help me remove my muffler at the slip-joint after the U-bend. Beat on it for an hour and never got it to budge. A squirt of Kroil and a thirty second wait let me pull it right off.

xtn
 

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I used Kroil to help me remove my muffler at the slip-joint after the U-bend. Beat on it for an hour and never got it to budge. A squirt of Kroil and a thirty second wait let me pull it right off.
I had a similar experience. I was working on my son's old Chevy and trying to disassemble the hubs. I soaked one in all kinds of things and finally managed to get it apart with my 12 ton press. The press didn't budge the second one (I hadn't soaked it in anything). Then my order of Kroil came in, and I sprayed it on the corroded joint. We in the house for a quick lunch and when I lifted the parts to take them to the press, they fell apart in my hands (not force needed). I've been a believer in Kroil ever since.
 

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This screw is total BS. Why is this alien screw a size 4 and not a 5.5 or bigger? What the F do they expected to happen after you have been using the brakes. I striped that thing nothing flat. On my first attempt I spun a good alien wrench. Then with an impact gun set low(soft), stripped the screw in about 2 seconds. What a F-ed up idea this alien screw is.


O.K. ……. I feel better now.

Kevin
 

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WD-40 and liquid wrench are crap. I've never had either do anything. PB Blaster is much better, but as noted Kroil is by far the best.

Squirt them ahead of time. If that doesn't work, it's time for heat. Map gas torch if you have it, or bring out the big dog- Oxy-Acetalyne.

Impact driver or even tapping the allen key or ratchet with a hammer to shock it and break the bond are better than just twisting slowly and stripping it.

Once you get it out, use anti-seize to put back together. In the future, any time you have the wheels off, break these loose and anti-seize them.

BMW used these too, and I've had my share of fun dealing with stripped/broken ones before.
 

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This screw is total BS. Why is this alien screw a size 4 and not a 5.5 or bigger? What the F do they expected to happen after you have been using the brakes. I striped that thing nothing flat. On my first attempt I spun a good alien wrench. Then with an impact gun set low(soft), stripped the screw in about 2 seconds. What a F-ed up idea this alien screw is.
First, the Allen screw is not necessary. It's there to hold the rotors on while the car is being assembled. After that, the wheels hold the rotors in place.

Instead of using an impact (just a lot of force automatically), you should use a hand impact tool (they've been discussed several times). A hand impact is a tool that you put the bit in the end, place it on the tight screw, and hit the end with a hammer. The force of the hammer blow pushes the bit into the screw, so it keeps it from stripping. It also shocks the screw at the same time that it is applying a twisting force to the screw. It will work almost every time. It is a standard tool for working on motorcycles with Phillips head screws holding the side covers and cases together. You cannot remove the screws without stripping if you use a screw driver. But use a hand impact tool, and it works every time.
 

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as far as I know, he's done with this project......:shrug:
 

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The force of the hammer blow pushes the bit into the screw, so it keeps it from stripping.
This is true for phillips head fasteners, which by design tend to push the bit out of the screw head. But it's not true for allen heads. The side force it takes to strip an allen head is not effected by any downward force or lack thereof. I stripped two of my rotor retaining screws with a hand impact drive.
 

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Once you get them out, replace the screws with slot head screws of the same size/pitch. Then you won't have to futz with stripping out the Allen head. Also, use antiseize, and don't torque the screw down at all (it only needs to be screwed in enough that the head doesn't interfere with a good mating between the wheel and rotor surface.

ed
 

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I recently had the same problem. After stripping the hex head hole, I tried an Easy Out and did nothing but make things worse. I then took the the car to a body shop friend of mine who looked at it for about 3 seconds while figuring out what to do, then cut a slot in the mangled screw head and used an impact driver like the one mentioned above (although his was a Snap-On so it cost a bunch more than $5.95!). One whack on the driver and the screw came loose. In all, it took him about 90 seconds and that included getting his tools out. And I fought with the miserable thing for an hour before giving up!
 

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Can we just not have them in place at all??? I mean the wheel holds the rotor etc in place doesn't it??
 

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Can we just not have them in place at all??? I mean the wheel holds the rotor etc in place doesn't it??
Read back to post number twelve in this thread.

xtn
 
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