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Discussion Starter #1
Hey everyone,

I installed driving lights a year ago or so, I wanted them on with the marker lights so I spliced them into the front side markers. They drew a bit to much current for the 10amp fuse and blew it within a couple times driving. I put a 15amp fuse in and everything has been fine since then. Well so I thought I just put a new stronger battery in the other day and noticed a burning smell while driving and then noted my instrument lights and marker and driving lights where not on? I checked the fuse and it's ok. I checked the wiring in the splice area they look fine and I went and disconnected the driving lights. Still no marker lights or instrument lights.

Is there anyone around the greater DC area that is good at spark chasing I have a multimeter just don't know how to use it well. I sure could use some help figuring this one out. Please post reply or PM me thanks.

:UK:
 

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Not a good ideal to increase fuse rating by 50% on things that will stay on for a long while.

Do your parking lights work? If they do, note that when these are on your side marker lights s/b on also.

Fuse 16?

Multimeter is easy.

Eg: set to volts, ground black end. Pierce wires or touch connectors with red end.

I drilled holes in wooden clothespin which then holds the wire steady and allows for easy piercing.

Eg: long wire so how do we know it's intact over its length? Set to Ohms, touch a lead to each end and you should get a reading. 0 reading = break in wire.

But, you need to go around under dash and by your marker and driving lights and see what burnt!

OK???
 

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Rule 1 : NEVER replace a fuse of a designated amperage with a higher amperage because there is a reason... wire or switch melt down. Most likely will have to replace the switch and hope it burned the contacts and not the wiring.

These lights need to be fed power through their own relay. It's OK to use the side marker wire for a 'trigger power' wire to activate the relay, that is how I set up my PIAA lights. 10 years with no problems, the relay handles the current amperage draw.

Let's hope it just fried the switch and not the wiring. A set like PIAA {not cheap} comes with it's own wiring harness which includes a relay with great instructions how to install yourself if your a first timer doing this job.

Robert
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Ok thanks for telling me I did a NO NO, but is anybody good at wiring and can come over to help? :shrug:
 

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An option is to learn from this.

Your eyes will tell you what you need to know...or your hand.

Follow the wires. Sort of like "follow the money", but less dramatic.

I think in this order:

Wire from marker lights to harness.

DLs to marker.

Fuse to harness. BTW, is it the fuse I cited?

Likely to be found among these.

Then, replace the burnt section using clamped connectors, unless you like soldering.

Disconnect what you've done, btw.

Report back to us. You'll be OK.

OK?
 

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Hey. Was wondering if you found anything.
 

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Fluke makes piercing probes which I highly recommend.

The telecom, multi-type is the most useful.

Even without changing fuses, I have had high amp bulbs melt sockets when run long enough.
 

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Why the telecom functions? Thanks.
 

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Just a superb design, esp for automotive.

Attaches to spade lugs too.



TL26A, Test Lead Set, Telecom 5-Way
5 ways to connect:
1. U-shaped nose for blade-shaped terminals;
2. Notched jaw for gripping screw heads, bare wire or terminals;
3. Serrated teeth for gripping threaded or wire-wrapped terminals;
4. Cluster of sharp needles for piercing small gauge (#22-#28 AWG) wires;
5. Large piercing needle for penetrating larger gauge wires.
60" (1.5m), silicone-insulated leads, useable from -80°C to +150°C (-112°F to +302°F). Rated for 30V, 10A. One red, one black.

The end will actually grip a screw head without popping off at the most opportune time.
 

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I haven't been there is years, but these guys were great at chasing done wiring gremlins (that I usually created).

Oaks Auto Electric Service
1011 Leslie Ave
Catonsville, MD 21228
(410) 744-4836
 

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So, don't leave us hanging.

What was the outcome??
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Oh Sorry

Was busy with a new job, talked to Sir Lotus and decided to go with a new switch pack module. It fixed the problem, but I still haven't decided on how to run the running lights so their just there for added weight, and looks.
 
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