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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Well...

I found my leak. The seals on the SC snout are bubbling oil. No weird/ scary metalic noises anywhere on RPM band. However considering a lot of the SC oil is likely low to gone is it a safe bet to just replace those front bearings as well given 20k miles on the car anyway ? ( I say it is gone cause I have quite a stain on maintenance panel which is why I started investigating.) I thought at first it was just a leaky sandwichplate I just installed. ( it's not.... heh ) So far consensus is I need new seal only, but my LT readings lead me to think those cone bearings should likely just be replaced anyway since I am asking more out of the SC unit with the 2.9 pulley.

This is going to be a first for me, but I feel like I can do it.

I looked a few hours trying to find some salient LT threads to help me along. Not much found hence my request for guidance.

This is where my research has led me.

1: SC is coming out. How hard is that really ? I am thinking I can tackle it, but is there anything I need to be especially careful about ?

2: I get SC out and assuming there is no blade damage what should I replace or check ? Is it just smart to assume I need front ( cone ) bearings since I am that far. ( What else should I be inspecting or just replacing outright? } More knowledgeable friends are going to do the refresh for me once I hand them the SC unit, so I just need to order the correct (likely) parts in advanced and get it out of the car.


So my car has 20K miles, I changed the pulley from stock to 2.9 at 18k miles. Is it folly to send a SC rebuild if no indicators other than the leak thus far ? I guess what I am asking is this. Is a rebuild only necessary once your SC has imploded ? I know the jump from 220 to 300 was going to put some strain on stuff and if all I need is to jerk the SC out, replace nose/cone bearings ( maybe ? ) and then reseal and refill with oil and reinstall. Well... I am good with that. I just have never messed with a SC before so that's why I am asking.

Any threads or pointers appreciated. I am going to try to take it out this weekend. What might be an expected range of hours extracting it clam on ? Thanks for any takers. I am glad I am not one of those out of sight out of mind type of owners. I see a problem I go get it. This one is new to me, but not unexpected. peacb
 

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Here is a thread with the part numbers for the bearings I used for my snout rebuild.
http://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f157/things-i-learned-about-mp62-162257/

As for taking it out there really isnt that much to it other than have a helper if you leave the clam on. It isn't super heavy but just an awkward angle to pull out after you get the manifold off the block. On my rebuild i just did the snout side, there are also 2 needle bearings that could be replaced on the bottom of the rotors but there are specialty tools required to remove them and I did not have access to them and my rotors seemed to be spinning smoothly. You will want to replace the coupler with a longer lasting one as well but that usually comes in the snout rebuild kits. With my rotors I cleaned them up an then inspected them because my bearings and coupler were really worn there was very minor scuffing at the edges and the cost to benefit to me just wasn't there to replace them. I figure I am loosing some boost but I will just wait for the supercharger to just completely die and then replace with a tvs when the time comes. Overall I think it took me a few days to disconnect and remove everything on a vf kit and get everything rebuild(need a press for the bearings) and put back on. Below are all the sites i was reading up on before the rebuild most are for different cars but similar enough rebuilds to get an idea of what I was looking at.
Jeff

MP62 oil and coupler change pics - ClubRoadster.net

Supercharger Oil Relacement Kit

Rolling Performance Home

How to replace an M90 snout coupler without removing the entire blower
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Jeff_R1

That is exactly the information I was looking for. Thanks for the extra technical knowledge steps as well. I am more informed. Appreciate the time man. peacb
 

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Also I forgot to mention but did in the tread that I linked that the snout bearings were not the same as what come in the GM rebuild kits, I ended up having to order them separately. The part numbers are listed in that other thread. Also to get at a few of the bolts I ended up going through the wheel wells as I chose not to take the clam off also.

Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I should get over my psychological hang up sooner than later.

I know after I have done it the first time I will laugh likely.

I am still flying blind sans service manuals. I tried to getting them online and download, but I was not successful.

Your right Westrock. I am going to need to bite the bullet and might as well take the clam off. I have no plans of doing much driving anyway. I will take it to my other garage.

I just have so many projects going on around me...

So it's actually getting a maintenance detail Thursday.

I will somehow get the service manuals, and take my tools to the car instead of the other way around. It's silly to keep avoiding the elephant that really allow me to take ownership completely of the engine bay...

Seeing the guts exposed might even prompt me to finish out with better header...
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Jeff_R1

What is the c-clip your talking about. I am trying to get everything I need in advance. I am down to that c-clip and the choice in bearings.

You said that the bearings needed were "6303 and a 6204 bearing"

Does anyone know what the correct or cooresponding ceramic bearing numbers would be ? Is there really any advantages to using ceramic bearings ? Reading the rebuild site they certainly tout the advantages... "40% less friction and the balls are 60% lighter"
 

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Motard, if your car is sleeping for Winter, take the clam off. Even for a first attempt, with careful labeling, no time pressure, etc. it will take 4-5 hrs to pull it all apart. Then you'll see how simple it is, and how exposed the whole back half of the car is; much easier to pull the SC out and back in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
tomrev

It is out of circulation for the winter. Your absolutely right I can only imagine how much easier it would be with a clear shot to everything.

I just have limited space in my garage. Still it's a toss up for me. I just hate to think I get it off and then it gets messed up cause I have no place to put it...

I have a bad track record on that type of affair. I get the hard stuff done and then all those attaboys turn to awshucks...

I am in no rush either way. Thanks for the support. I hope to get done with a ton of house type projects and focus on getting that SC off and sorted out !

It is running fine, but I imagine with no oil so I have not driven it. I should have all my parts ordered tomorrow. I just can't decide on the bearings.

Steel or ceramic ? I don't have a clue, but if ceramic is all that superior could someone chime in ? peacb
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Reality won the rear clam is off.

:drool:

Oh my god. The one major issue of working on this car is gone !

It was only psychological. I researched so many threads. I had already done most of the work before so I was not in unfamiliar territories...

Something very major has shifted in my mind RE: this car ! It is all right there. I can sit on top of my engine like a throne if I wish !

Thanks for the gentle prodding guys. You were right again. My car just went from one of the hardest (access) cars to work on to perhaps one of the easiest...

Don't be afraid out there LT community. These cars were well considered. They just expect a little more out of us wrench turners. not much though. I can't be happier about this development. It must seem silly for most of you guys, but I realized at some late point that even if willing to contort and destroy my body trying to remove the SC with clam on :

A: I was going to mess up my clam and paint job anyway even though I was trying not to by leaving it on.
B: It was taking (x) time longer to do everything in there. I realized the time penalty would be immense if I continued
C: I had a real hard time imagining the rest of the operation going smoothly if at all with the clam on

It is almost pathological to try to do anything substantial on that engine with the clam on. I can See mamma ! I can walk !
 

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If you pick up the Radium clam removal system you will only have to pull the seats and interior once. If you car is already apart then now it the time

Now that I have done it several times. I can have the rear clam off in 20 minutes. Which I laugh because I take the clam off for everything now
 

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Don't be afraid out there LT community. These cars were well considered. They just expect a little more out of us wrench turners. not much though. I can't be happier about this development. It must seem silly for most of you guys, but I realized at some late point that even if willing to contort and destroy my body trying to remove the SC with clam on :
No worries. I did my first supercharger install with the clam on. It was a hassle, but I got through it. The next couple times I did major work I took it off. But, like you, I had to get over that initial mental road block. I think I was actually more afraid of it not lining up correctly. But surprisingly it lines up pretty good each time. I did have to man handle the clam last time to get it just right, but I was able to move the clam around all by myself once it was on the chassis.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I can't stress the massive change this one single development has had on me...

I have done so much with only one week with it off. I can see 360degrees around the engine all the suffering the lack of access has had over the years. It is amazing how many things needed attention if only because of lack of access with the clam on. We are talking about very skilled mechanics who simply had to cut corners to get things done.

Yeah it was a pain, but I could do it now in 3 hours prob less if I did some of the basic mods many do to make it easier the next time you take the clam off. I just took my new 2bular header and decat to get ceramic coated today. Once I get them back and on it will be time to re-install clam. I am excited to see how the car responds to the port and polish job i did on the SC !

Game changing ! :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Whot an Odyssey that was...

At one point it was o'dark thirty and my wife walk in on me in the laundry room asking me to stop using the dremel. I had a piece of sandpaper flattening the casting on the inside of something. I said "this is what mental illness looks like honey" all she did was pivot retorting "nothing new"

It's all back together. The net is positive. The SC is def more free spinning. The note on the SC is different. At first I was concerned, but it is in fact the sound of a very happy SC with new grease on the needlebearings and new oil in the snout.

I honestly can't tell if any gains? I was at 271whp before I started. IF there are any I would attribute them to the new 2bular header ?

I am just happy to have learned so much about my machine, tinkered, and improved efficiency by getting all gunk out the entire intake track. Just so many little things that make you really appreciate the package delivered in such a small space. I even made it interesting with that Phenolic spacer on the intake manifold offsetting everything about 1/8"...


I just know it still get's it and idle is solid. My hummingbird flymachine is back on the road just in time for spring !

Thus far no leak. I think it was actually the dipstick o ring issue again. This car had this leak once and previous owner had dealership fix. It was because it was "fixed" once I did not consider it possible culprit and that pointed to my SC... ( I thought)

The o ring came out in ribbons when I pulled the dipstick tube out... I made sure it won't happen again with two o rings of different diameter fixed in place with good gasket making material. I had to try a couple times to get the right combination of tightness without rolling a o ring out. The real trick was not messing it all up when I installed the SC back. No doubt that was my leak. The SC had plenty of oil in it. I also took the breathertube apart and resealed it as well. So leak potential is gone from those sources. The service panel will tell the truth the next couple of weeks.
 
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