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Discussion Starter #1
need suggestion - engine / shifting related.

background - my front and rear engine mounts were gone. i fixed them this last weekend. installed innovative mounts on front and back, but left the sides alone. custom soldering done on the back engine mount side -- top bolt was broken on the engine, bolt went in and worked, but chance of it coming out again was high. currently the back engine mount connects to 5 bolts on the engine now. (image below)

car feels and sounds good. a little more shaky, but in a good way during acceleration (innovative mounts).

Unfortunately, there seems to be a shifting issue. sometimes it does not want to go into gear. It seems that the higher the RPM, the less chance for it to want to shift. I'm thinking there is an issue with the shifting cable alignment. Would anyone be able to direct me to a how-to, so I can see if anything is misaligned?

Along with the shift issue as seen in the below video link that I took today... You will also notice the rev limiter light comes on about 7.7k rpm, not 8.2k. i slowly accelerated in second so i could figure out when it was kicking in. Also note, after shifting, i was unable to put it in any gear until you hear the engine rev again. i tried, 6,5,4,3 and i believe i finally got third to work after two or three quick attempts.

http://www.customminds.com/temp/lotus-shift.mp4
45 meg video (about 23 seconds.)


looking forward to some good suggestions.



 

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If you zip-tied the shifter cables down differently then they were before, or moved the path of the shift cables at all, then the shifter will need to be re-adjusted. Either of those things will change the effective length of the cables and can cause the shifter not to work like it used to.

Or you can put the cables back the way they were.

Does the shifter work normally when the engine is off? then that would point to air in the clutch hydraulics, and that system will need to be bled.

If the shifter doesn't work great when the engine is off as well, then the cables have moved.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
note: new issue, transmission.

Thanks for the suggestion Vulcan - i didn't want to respond until we thoroughly tested.

We are now 99.9% confident the clutch is working per design. car is easily drivable in low rpm's (under 4k) shifting works all the time, just a lag when the engine is under higher rpm's -- has to slow down until it engages gear -- (with the clutch held in) you just hold up into third (whatever gear) and when it matches, it will slide into gear - trying to match rpm's doesn't seem to help.). changing gears with car turned off is easy, no issues. line did not need bleeding (checked). clutch always engages fine (quarter inch movement moves piston). also disengages fine.

We believe now that it is the transmission/synchros. The gearbox fluid is full and new (within 3k miles redline mt-90).

anyone else have an idea? i'd hate to replace the transmission/rebuild and still have it not work.

side question: where do i buy a rebuilt transmission -- or parts from. seems like sector111 is out of stock for good. The toyota dealership only sells new C60 (not C64) transmissions for 3,500.00.


Thanks again!

Michael
 

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First thing...very, very unlikely that 4 synchros would go at the same time. You are more likely to get hit by lightning 4 times that 4 synchros to go out at the same time.

2 of them on gears 3 and 4...maybe...known weak spot.

I am 99.9% sure you have air in the clutch line...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
we will put it back up on the rack this Sunday and look at it. We will look more into the bleeding of the clutch.

The problems we have with the bleeding the clutch suggestion.
1.) Never ever ever opened the clutch line since i got the car 3 years ago. no air introduced to the line should equal no air in the line. air shouldn't magically appear.
2.) Vulcan, I'm not seeing that persons issues on that link. Just the issues stated on this page. rosscarlson seems to have many more issues regarding clutch in any gear/speed.

i don't think i have 4 bad synchros, although it could be possible. more likely that for some reason the mt-90 oil isn't getting along with the synchros for whatever reason...
 

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the "air" in a clutch line is caused by heat and absorption of moisture into the system over time. The nylon cap can absorb moisture out of the air. The rubber lines do the same. The fluid+moisture can vaporize at high temperatures and generate gas.

You need to bleed your clutch, or replace the fluid once in a while. Definitely more often if the car is driven hard.

No to mention that the clutch fluid and brake fluid share a reservoir, so gasses generated by high braking temperatures will degrade the clutch fluid as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
anyone recognize this piece that might have dropped out of the flywheel (i had pulled the plastic part down under the clutch area and this was at the bottom/fell out).

(ps - the thing on the right.) ;-)





i'll try to bleed the clutch line again on Sunday.
 

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pretty thin.

Not sure if thick enough to be one of the pressure plate fingers.
And it also looks too thin to be a piece of the chutch metal around the springs, which sometimes breaks. I had a piece like that break out of my Acura K20 clutch and kept me from shifting into any gear, since the clutch was locked with the pressure plate, due to that piece of metal...

Looks like you're going to have to replace the clutch, pressure plate, and throw-out bearing.

Could be one of the straps around the outer diameter of the pressure plate housing.


Not sure if you want to hear this, but the stiffer engine mounts do mean that you have more shock loading in the driveline... Could have contributed to this failure... But so could hard launches or aggressive clutch use.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
I thought so too, but the straps around the outer diameter look to be thicker/stronger than the piece I found.

update:
we changed all of the clutch fluid. bled it, removed reservoir fluid, added new dot4 fluid to reservoir, then bled the line again until the new fluid showed up. then capped off the reservoir again (old fluid was dirty).

We also changed the transmission* fluid.

the car shifts better. definitely drivable. the main problem is still that when the engine is stressed, you have to rev match to put in or take out of gear. usually this only occurs when above 7k rpm. lower gears, normally no issues at all.

i'm guessing the next stage would be a clutch replacement... then if that doesn't work, a transmission rebuild.

technically I can drive it 100% right now knowing what I need to do to shift it during higher rpm's... I might just continue driving it over the summer and wait for it to cool down before I do more work on it (blistering hot this last weekend)

thoughts?
 

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That's OK...but it should be pretty hard to get the car into 1st gear and reverse if the clutch is "dragging". If more tangs fail, it will get harder to shift...then eventually, the clutch will not grip at all.

Buy a clutch now...have it ready for the swap...it can fai at any time. I'd get the lightest flywheel not too and install it at the same time.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
found the culprit.

now to get the flywheel resurfaced and install the new clutch.

thanks all.

ps- driven it 2-3k more miles since the initial issue. still only having trouble shifting above 6krpm.

 

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Discussion Starter #13
finished new clutch install and it's now running like butter!

total time = exactly 10 hours. 4 to take apart, 6 to put back together. (we used a lift)
(apart on sunday, then together the following Saturday - the extra parts needed required a few days down time.)
total costs... approximately $700.00

$450.00 hdds clutch (from BOE)
$45.00 flywheel resurface - from Oreilly's (took a few days because they had to send it to a different store)
$130.00 all new bolts for flywheel from Toyota dealership -- for 2005 Celica GTS. (some of the bolts were $12/each).
$45.00 three quarts of mt-90
engine oil - I had already
oil filter - I had already


Thanks everyone!
 
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