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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Another thanks out to Sherman @HethelSport for being one of the most standup vendors I've ever dealt with in my many years of car modding. This guy just plain loves cars, and will take the time to write well thought out, thorough answers to whatever question you could possibly have along with provide his honest opinions to help you out. Not to mention, he will keep you very well informed on the status of your order, shipping info, he even provided me the BC wheel ACAD print along with a print of another order so I could put them into AutoCAD to compare concavity among various offset choices. Super nice dude.

So I picked up a set of BC Forged RZ21 wheels (specs below) in Gloss Black, some GT 'A' panels, and a pair of the "craft" Lotus badges to replace my flaking nose badge. The 'A' panels still need to get coated but see below for the badge and wheels.

I went more aggressive with my offsets versus HethelSports recommended offsets based on weeks of research, measurements, playing with the online wheel/tire calculators, and probably way too much serious thought. For all of my cars, I have always been very tedious and precise when I choose my combos of wheel sizes, offsets and tire sizes in order to achieve the perfect amount of flushness and the "right" look that I like.

Wheels Specs:

Front: 19 x 8.5 et.+45 (HethelSport is +47) paired with OEM front P-Zero tires/sizes (which barely even show a stretch)

Rear: 20 x 10 et.+57 (HethelSport is +63) paired with OEM rear P-Zero tires/sizes (which barely even show a stretch)

No rubbing issues whatsoever. Keep in mind I am using the OEM tire sizes versus upsizing for the increased width wheels, so that very slight stretch yields me a bit more clearance as the wheel moves up into the well on compression. Going a size bigger, or perhaps a different brand/type tire with a beefier wall may yield different results. But honestly I feel I could have gone even a bit more aggressive than I did and maybe dial in a little more negative camber worst case. The TDC of my rear wheel at edge of lip sticks out past the fender about 3-4mm, and the TDC of my front wheel at edge of lip is pretty much exactly flush with the fender. Concavity in the rear is pretty respectable for such high offsets, but the front is, meh (we have no choice). Here's some pics:

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Nice looking wheels - and I second “Props to Sherman” - I just got a big box from him this week as well...

Pics to follow when I get stuff installed.

Kevin
 

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I agree with above. Wheels looks great. (y)

And I third the "props to Sherman". He was very patient with me when I ordered my BC Forged wheels and during our numerous wheel and tire discussions.
 

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Very nice mate. Nice choice.

Basically identical wheel specs to mine
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Very nice mate. Nice choice.

Basically identical wheel specs to mine
Yup, your setup was what I used as the go-by 👌. You're one of the very few who has actually even attempted to push the envelope when it comes to trying out more aggressive offsets. I've seen this play out time and time again on car forums and the learning curve is almost always gradual baby steps with combinations of wheel and tire sizes, offsets, camber adjustments, fender mods, etc. There's just so few of these Evora's out there and from what i've seen most owners tend to stay home with the safe proven setups.

IMHO, you pretty much nailed the sweet spot. If anything, I could have gone more aggressive in front which I thought about, but I'm planning on lowering via new coilovers so I played it safe to potentially keep me out of trouble with that.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Also, it's hard to go wrong with a wheel that's styled directly after the HRE P101's. There's a reason the P101's are by far the most popular wheel HRE has ever produced (a big thanks to the P-car guys), and one of the most popular and widely copied wheel styles out there. It's kind of a safe play, but i've never ran the P101 style before so figured now was the time.
 

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I had the P101's on my R8 and I liked them so went with these on Lotus. Nice that all 4 wheels were not much more than 1 HRE. And so far quality seems excellent
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These looks great! That said, while I haven't swapped out the OEM wheels on my evora, I did play around with some very thin (5-10mm) spacers. I noticed a change in the suspension immediately, particularly in the rear, on hard bumps the suspension would over compress and shoot past on rebound, going from a really sweet 'compress-> return' to 'compress->overshoot->return'. After that experiment I'm just not going to mess with genius...

All of my suspension knowledge comes from the 2 wheel variety, so please by all means educate me if I am getting it wrong. Is there a way to pull off the wider wheel look without impacting the leverage points of the suspension (thereby putting unexpected demands on the stock valving and springs/rates)?
 

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Beautiful wheels but I see a design flaw . IMHO it leaves too much hub /rotor cap exposed. I think it would be just that much better matching the rotor facing.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Beautiful wheels but I see a design flaw . IMHO it leaves too much hub /rotor cap exposed. I think it would be just that much better matching the rotor facing.
Ah, you mean like to much of the rotor hat being seen? I can see your point, but there are advantages to minimal wheel at the hub, such as helping the wheel appear more concave.

That said, I don’t disagree, and I will also say I have been looking at floating 2-piece rotor replacements for a while now, which would also happen to clean up what you describe perfectly, and make the rotor assembly look much better behind the wheel.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
These looks great! That said, while I haven't swapped out the OEM wheels on my evora, I did play around with some very thin (5-10mm) spacers. I noticed a change in the suspension immediately, particularly in the rear, on hard bumps the suspension would over compress and shoot past on rebound, going from a really sweet 'compress-> return' to 'compress->overshoot->return'. After that experiment I'm just not going to mess with genius...

All of my suspension knowledge comes from the 2 wheel variety, so please by all means educate me if I am getting it wrong. Is there a way to pull off the wider wheel look without impacting the leverage points of the suspension (thereby putting unexpected demands on the stock valving and springs/rates)?
Yes, there is.

You need to play with the tire/wheel calculator that I will link for your below. Remember, a wider wheel also puts more wheel on the inboard side too, so basically you would want to play with wheel widths more than offsets to move the inner and outer faces of the wheel both more inboard and outboard while keeping the scrub radius at 0. This would keep everything centered, and you’ll find your stopping point won’t be too far outboard and rubbing, but rather too far inboard and rubbing on suspension components.

 

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In the next couple days's I'll be finishing my aftermarket wheel adventure. I'm going to push the envelope a little further in a way not proven yet.
I bought a set of 18x8 et40 for fronts and 20x10 et50 for the rears. Weights aren't bad, (10.8kg front, 12.6 kg rear, 46.8kg / set)

Trial fitting of the wheels were done and they seem to have adequate clearance, but the jury is still out until I mount the tires and it's on the street.
 

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Ah, you mean like to much of the rotor hat being seen? I can see your point, but there are advantages to minimal wheel at the hub, such as helping the wheel appear more concave.

That said, I don’t disagree, and I will also say I have been looking at floating 2-piece rotor replacements for a while now, which would also happen to clean up what you describe perfectly, and make the rotor assembly look much better behind the wheel.
Been awhile since I had my Series 1 and forgot they didn't have floating rotors. The Gen 2 4xx series 2-pc. are larger diameter. so would not fit without modifying the caliper mounts.
 

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In the next couple days's I'll be finishing my aftermarket wheel adventure. I'm going to push the envelope a little further in a way not proven yet.
I bought a set of 18x8 et40 for fronts and 20x10 et50 for the rears. Weights aren't bad, (10.8kg front, 12.6 kg rear, 46.8kg / set)

Trial fitting of the wheels were done and they seem to have adequate clearance, but the jury is still out until I mount the tires and it's on the street.
Check for rubbing on suspension arms.
 

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Check for rubbing on suspension arms.
Fronts or rears?

I know trial mounting w/o tires has them clearing all brake and suspension components, only item of concern might be on the front wheels - there's not much space between the brake caliper face and the wheel's spokes. No rubbing but it's close.

Close enough to remind me of an instance on another car, where all wheels mounted and cleared fine, until it was time to install a fresh set of pads.
At that point, the caliper face moved out enough to cause it to smack the wheel's inner spokes. Had to add a 3mm wheel spacer to make that work.

Lets hope that doesn't happen this time around.
 

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Fronts or rears?

I know trial mounting w/o tires has them clearing all brake and suspension components, only item of concern might be on the front wheels - there's not much space between the brake caliper face and the wheel's spokes. No rubbing but it's close.

Close enough to remind me of an instance on another car, where all wheels mounted and cleared fine, until it was time to install a fresh set of pads.
At that point, the caliper face moved out enough to cause it to smack the wheel's inner spokes. Had to add a 3mm wheel spacer to make that work.

Lets hope that doesn't happen this time around.
Dimension shoundn't change with a fixed bridge caliper as on Evora.....
 
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