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My 2010 NA with 24,000 miles needs a new clutch. Price?

$8196
That's what I hear,what are they charging for just the parts? I know it's like 40 hours labor, if you piece the parts on DeRoure it's only like $700 give or take? but I hear dealers are charging close to $3000 for parts alone, what am I missing?

The price is one thing, but trusting your Tech to take apart the car that far ( entire A** ) and put it back together correctly is what scares me.
 

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There's the confirmation and it's not a "myth". That's one reason I decided to trade in my n/a press car with 10K miles when I bought it and another reason I may not keep my S much longer.

Asulil, was your car bought new? If not, was it a press car or factory car?
 

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Unless I am missing something, if you are reasonably mechanically inclined, this should be a doable project. When it is time for the clutch to be done in my car I plan on renting a car for a few weeks and doing the job myself. I have pulled the engine out of a few MR2's and This should not be much worse. The main pain in the a$$ would be removing the clam.

Am I missing something? :shrug:
 

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Unless I am missing something, if you are reasonably mechanically inclined, this should be a doable project. When it is time for the clutch to be done in my car I plan on renting a car for a few weeks and doing the job myself. I have pulled the engine out of a few MR2's and This should not be much worse. The main pain in the a$$ would be removing the clam.

Am I missing something? :shrug:
I totally agree. :clap:
 

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Looking at Asulil's first post on LT, it appears he bought the car with 10k miles on the clock. I'm guessing the original owner wasn't exactly easy on the clutch. Regardless, not looking forward to the day that I have to pay for a clutch replacement. Hopefully my dealer will cut me some slack when that day comes.
 

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Unless I am missing something, if you are reasonably mechanically inclined, this should be a doable project. When it is time for the clutch to be done in my car I plan on renting a car for a few weeks and doing the job myself. I have pulled the engine out of a few MR2's and This should not be much worse. The main pain in the a$$ would be removing the clam.

Am I missing something? :shrug:
Key word being "reasonably mechanically inclined". Not to mention having the time, tools, and interest in doing it yourself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I bought the car with about 10,000 miles , and think I got a great price, if I would have bought this new at a $90k level price I would be ballistic now (not that I am not upset) I had "mentally" budgeted about 5,000 for a new clutch so I am surprised by 3000. I will post the actual estimate.

I am reasonably mechanically inclined, but this job require almost dismantling the car - there is no way I would attempt.
 

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I am 95% sure it is an engine out job...after having been under the car I am not sure how you could get the transmission off of the block without doing so. The parts themselves aren't that expensive.

Not to be the asker of the obvious, but what was your final telltale and what were the symptoms leading up to the failure?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I am 95% sure it is an engine out job...after having been under the car I am not sure how you could get the transmission off of the block without doing so. The parts themselves aren't that expensive.

Not to be the asker of the obvious, but what was your final telltale and what were the symptoms leading up to the failure?

I noticed the first symptom about a month ago, after switching gear the eps would rev before the clutch engaged and the rpms settled down, that just got worse and worse, was actually driving to the dealer when it just completely failed. I could shift easily enough but it just wouldn't engage, the smell of burnt clutch was everywhere, and there was smoke from the engine compartment.
 

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I noticed the first symptom about a month ago, after switching gear the eps would rev before the clutch engaged and the rpms settled down, that just got worse and worse, was actually driving to the dealer when it just completely failed. I could shift easily enough but it just wouldn't engage, the smell of burnt clutch was everywhere, and there was smoke from the engine compartment.
Sounds like the friction disc is toast. Same thing happened to me in my Audi earlier this year...the smoke was the actual friction material disintegrating. It was an "upgraded" version of the original OEM clutch. Oddly enough the manufacturer I bought it from--Clutchmasters--no longer offers that friction disc for sale. Apparently, I wasn't the only one, but of course I learned that AFTER I bought it. :huh: 2 clutch replacements & a transmission swap later (failed synchro on an impossible tranny to find) I got pretty proficient at pulling the tranny out. :facepalm :)
 

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I am 95% sure it is an engine out job...after having been under the car I am not sure how you could get the transmission off of the block without doing so. The parts themselves aren't that expensive.
Absolutely (and unlike the Elige).
As to the MR2 comparison--that is fairly irrelevant since the Evora motor/transmission cannot be removed from below with the car in the air.
As noted--basically the entire rear of the car has to be dissembled (and re-assembled, of course, to finish the job). I think $8k is relatively cheap, if a dealer doing do the job ;).
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
here is the breakdown

1. Pressure plate: $263
2. Clutch Plate : $242
3. T/O Bearing : $99
4. Flywheel : $242 (we don't need to do this but I was told its the lighter flywheel)
5. Fluid : $29

and now for the finale:

6. Labor : $7250 (supposedly this is a reduced amount)

well - its not like i didn't know this could be expensive -so I really can't complain.
 

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I'm sure I'm cursing my car and it will probably blow-up this weekend, but I'll post anyway. I'm just past 40k and no remote signs of clutch wear. I average 80 miles a day in harsh stop and go conditions. So, it's not like it doesn't get usage. I just think the very early Evora's definitely had issues that got sorted in the assembly line on later mode years.
 

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Now with engine out being the big expense, consider teh opportunity fro otehr mods that will be cheaper to perform with it out, S owners new smaller SC pulley from Komo-Tec kitted fro the Exige V6 car; exhaust headers while 2bular and komo-Tec are typivcally installed engine in, it would be much easier to install engine out and those that insist on the supersprint long headers, this requires engine out. .. any other cleanup, heat sheilding, housekeeping you can think of.

As to clutch list, true you dont need a flywheel but why not, hate to zip it back togetehr an d2 years later say wish I had installed a LW flywheel for 250 but no way for 7500
 

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