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Lotus I purchased is in signature (10,000 miles). Looking to do a preventative maintenance check and service on the car with both clams removed. Looking for any useful tips on things to check/mod/work on etc while it's all apart. Some things planned:

1. Checking rear toe bolt torque. (My car appears to have a brace bar.)
2. Checking all major bolts on car - suspension / engine bay etc, fluid-film any rusty hardware.
3. Doing all/most of the air conditioner mod's located here: Improved Ac
4. Installing a real Philips HID headlamp kit, LED light's replacing all other bulbs, installing middle brake light flasher.
5. Sand calipers (don't like red), paint matte black with ceramic caliper paint.
6. Replace brake/clutch fluid with Castrol SRF. Have Motul bleeder.
7. Replace coolant with Peak Global Lifetime. Have air lift kit.
8. Replace air filter.
9. Replace engine oil with Mobil1 5w30. Rated extremely high here: 540RAT - Tech Facts, NOT Myths (Yes I know it's lighter hot weight than 5w40).
10. Remove parking brake cables (car has AP big brake kit).
11. Install 111 quick-cans oil catch can.
12. Install 111 sportINSERTS engine mount supports.
13. Change transmission fluid with Redline.
14. Possibly remove clutch proportioning valve. (Thoughts on this?)
15. Clean oil out of inside of inter-cooler. (Best way to do this caliper cleaner?)


A few questions:

1. According to the Lotus VIN check, my car isn't coming up on the oil line recall. Is mine late enough to have the non-problematic oil lines?

2. Would my car have the radiator with plastic caps? If so, is it guaranteed to fail sometime in the life of the car? If so, what would be a recommended good price/performance replacement radiator?

3. The car has a air-bag-less Momo steering wheel and Schroth 4-point ASM harnesses. With the air bag light on, will the passenger side air bag ever deploy? Is there any way to turn off the airbag light without actually messing with the bulb in the instrument cluster?

4. I only have one key. Is there any way around actually having to go to a Lotus dealer in person to get the fob programmed? Is the "code" number located on the car somewhere? I don't see it in the owners manual I have.

5. My alarm system (besides engine immobilizer) and interior light do not work. I understand that some of the S260's like mine came with cup wiring harnesses in which the alarm and interior light aren't working. I've dug up the following info posted by Josh on the Exige registry:

When a number of the 2009 Sport 260s were delivered to the US it was found that their interior lights and alarm systems were not operational. Further research found that they were built without wire 182 (purple 1.5) going from fuse F11 to Splice S, which then splits to supply the alarm unit (with two wires), the alarm siren, and the interior light. The theory is that these cars were initially being built as competition versions of the ROW Cup car before being finished as a Sport 260 and sent to the US. At least car #16 (in the list in this thread) has been found to contain the control wiring for the Cup car's on-board fire extinguisher and ignition kill switch systems within its harness as well.

The fix for this issue as applied to car #16 in March of 2011 by Criswell Lotus under the supervision of then Eastern Region Service Rep Mike Fisher was to add the missing wire from fuse F11 using "Splice kit 8.965, number 19168446", running it along the harness into the dash area and then splicing it into wire 183 just before it enters the PFK alarm unit connector. Other cars may have been similarly repaired, though there has been a report that one Lotus Tech did a complete harness replacement on one of the cars to resolve this issue.


It sounds like a relatively simply fix, but if anyone can confirm the steps above for the corrective action it would be most appreciated.

Any other tips or suggestions fire away!



 

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with the gearbox oil, make sure you use MT90 and not Shockproof. I have experienced much smoother shifts and a lot less diff noise since making the change.

That's interesting to know about the interior light. It has never worked on my cup 240 and I assumed it had something to do with the wiring for the fire extinguisher.

P.S. nice car and the best colour :D
 

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I've replaced my two front mounted radiators with a Laminova heat exchanger. Lotus buys them from MoCal anyway. I've also replaced the OEM (MoCal) sandwich plate with one without a thermostat...that way the oil get preheated when cold. The only BAT fittings are on that OEM sandwich plate...then you will have all AN-10 lines...no more problems!

Plastic and aluminum don't mix well...replace the OEM 42mm radiator with a ProAlloy 45mm all aluminum radiator. Bolt in, even with A/C.

I've got an extra one if you'd like to horse trade something for it...

The LETSLA shift linkage is worth it...so are the Simply Sports Cars shift and cross gate cables...easier to do with the clams off...now is the time.
 

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Your item 15...AutoZone sells a red/white can of BrakeKlen...best cleaner out there for all parts. There is a special cleaner for the MAF/MAP sensors in the intake tubes (one is in the intercooler)...use that for the sensors! They need to be cleaned too.
 

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Item 3... get a connector that fits the harness and put a 2.2-ohm resistor across the two leads...use a high wattage one, like 5 watts. The system thinks all is good then.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
with the gearbox oil, make sure you use MT90 and not Shockproof. I have experienced much smoother shifts and a lot less diff noise since making the change.

That's interesting to know about the interior light. It has never worked on my cup 240 and I assumed it had something to do with the wiring for the fire extinguisher.

P.S. nice car and the best colour :D
Ya, I've got three quarts of MT90 that just came in. Does your alarm system work on your cup? From reading all the problems on the alarm sub-forum, maybe it's a good think not to have a working alarm!

I've replaced my two front mounted radiators with a Laminova heat exchanger. Lotus buys them from MoCal anyway. I've also replaced the OEM (MoCal) sandwich plate with one without a thermostat...that way the oil get preheated when cold. The only BAT fittings are on that OEM sandwich plate...then you will have all AN-10 lines...no more problems!

Plastic and aluminum don't mix well...replace the OEM 42mm radiator with a ProAlloy 45mm all aluminum radiator. Bolt in, even with A/C.

I've got an extra one if you'd like to horse trade something for it...

The LETSLA shift linkage is worth it...so are the Simply Sports Cars shift and cross gate cables...easier to do with the clams off...now is the time.
Is the shift link fairly easy to install/align? So my car definitely has these bad plastic end caps on the radiator?

Your item 14...is there a clutch delay valve in these cars? If there is, get rid of it!
Not sure, if there is I will know it when I see it. I thought I saw someone selling the brake line splice that fills its spot but I can't seem to find it again.

Your item 15...AutoZone sells a red/white can of BrakeKlen...best cleaner out there for all parts. There is a special cleaner for the MAF/MAP sensors in the intake tubes (one is in the intercooler)...use that for the sensors! They need to be cleaned too.
There is a sensor in the inter-cooler too? I will look into these products.

Item 5... get them powder coated...this is the go-to guy for that THEPOWDERCOATER.COM | About Us

I'm pretty sure STopTech even uses him...
Ya I was thinking about that but it's driving season and I don't want to be out the car for quite a while just for powder coating when the ceramic stuff works fine. It's going to be matte black calipers, so not worried about a nice visible finish like on a bright color. I am getting rid of all of the red (besides tail lights) and yellow on the car. I don't like bright colors. ;)

Item 3... get a connector that fits the harness and put a 2.2-ohm resistor across the two leads...use a high wattage one, like 5 watts. The system thinks all is good then.
So basically I want to turn also off the passenger air bag and shut off the light. So just insert/solder in a 2.2-ohm resister on the ends of both air bag connector plugs and that's it?

Hmm, interesting. I'd have to think hard about spending a grand just on a new intake setup. I may go with the BOE Torque300+ tune in the near future, would that work well with the 3" MAF that BOE sells for their tune?
 

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6. Are you putting this car on the track? Otherwise SRF is overkill
7. I've run Peak, you're probably ok with it. Converted to Toyota Red myself though.
9. Why not run Mobil1 5w-40?
14. The known weak point on these cars in the transmissions. This is only my opinion, but as the power on these cars went up, warranty claims on transmissions was probably a big concern. How do you keep people from breaking transmissions and still increase the power? Clutch delay valve...

If you change intake or exhaust changes need a tune to take advantage of any potential gains, thus I wouldn't buy something that would result in a drastic change unless you are also planning to implement a tune that can support the change.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Some limited track, and some autocross. SRF is probably overkill, but should require less frequent changes to off-set some of the cost.

From some research I've done, the Peak is supposedly pretty good stuff and is what Lotus recommends.

Mobil 5w40 diesel isn't rated that good on PSI scoring tests.

I hear you on the clutch delay valve. Since I won't be upgrading the transmission anytime soon, I now suspect I will leave the valve in if I go with the Torque 300+ tune. That should help give the trans a bit longer life. I will try and get all of my parts in place before I get the tune configured by BOE.

Also, with the S111 engine mount inserts, I understand the shifting should be quite a bit better. Still think I should go with new cables too?
 

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The 2.2-ohm resistor makes the system think that something legit is plugged in...not just hot wired short. Any air bag you've got, replace it with a 2.2-ohm resistor and all is good!
 

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The plastic capped radiators are standard...on all cars. If the factory (or Lotus dealer) installs the Laminova heat exchanger, they replace the radiator with a good one. It was an option on all cars, but unless the competition radiator was "specially" ordered, it is plastic.
 

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I've gotten the Really Light Stuff larger intercooler, tripple intakes for that intercooler, 3" SC pulley...they all helped. A 3" CAI and replaced the CUP (TRD) air cleaner with a conical K&N...that also helped. But the thing that gives this car a real kick in the @$$ is replacing the exhaust system with a de-cat. I've got the 2bular GT3 exhaust system. If you don't have and over-the-diffuser exhaust, you don't have $h!t.

I'm still waiting for Phil to finish his black dash tune...
 

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For question #2 - Radiators, here is what I know:

In mid - 2007 or 2008 (don't know which) Lotus changed the radiators so that they didn't fail. If I remember correctly the upgraded radiators are painted black... Do some research, but I don't think any of the new radiators are prone to failure. Your car being a '09 should have the upgraded radiator too.

PS: beautiful car! When my car grows up it wants to be just like yours!
 

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I would run Shell Rotella 5w40. Cheap and supposidely better than Mobil1. Some guy did a test of many different oils and found that shell rotella had a much higher amount of ZDDP than Mobil1 and on top of that....cheaper.
 

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I would run Shell Rotella 5w40. Cheap and supposidely better than Mobil1. Some guy did a test of many different oils and found that shell rotella had a much higher amount of ZDDP than Mobil1 and on top of that....cheaper.

'some guy' did a test of oils in reference by the OP too. That's my problem... some guy doesn't have a sense for what is best in all particular engines. Take a fish out of water and give him the best air on the planet to breathe... still dead! I'll put my trust in blackstone analysis that i've seen on this particular engine.

At my walmart, 4 quarts of Rotella is $22 and 5 quarts of Mobil1 0w-40 is $25. My math says the Mobil1 is cheaper YMMV :shrug:
 

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'some guy' did a test of oils in reference by the OP too. That's my problem... some guy doesn't have a sense for what is best in all particular engines. Take a fish out of water and give him the best air on the planet to breathe... still dead! I'll put my trust in blackstone analysis that i've seen on this particular engine.

At my walmart, 4 quarts of Rotella is $22 and 5 quarts of Mobil1 0w-40 is $25. My math says the Mobil1 is cheaper YMMV :shrug:


Yeah, not going to get into an argument into what type of oil to use. I've been using shell for the longest time and even on my motorcycles without issues. Walmart has Rotella at a cheaper price than M1 5w40 where I live. So what oil are you running?
 

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Yeah, not going to get into an argument into what type of oil to use. I've been using shell for the longest time and even on my motorcycles without issues. Walmart has Rotella at a cheaper price than M1 5w40 where I live. So what oil are you running?
Mobil1 0w-40 of course :) I know Rotella is big with the bike crowd, I also used to run it in my bike when I had one.
 
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