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Discussion Starter #1
Thank you in advance for any help. Love this car but want to figure some things out and the owner's manual leave out a ton of information! For example, how does one turn the headlights off? Manual refers to top switch being parking lights- these are always on and pressing the button does not turn off. Also turning the headlight switch on merely adds high-beam access as far as I can tell.
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Does this panel come off and is there something behind it? Passenger side of dash.
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Does this look normal? Just kind of dangling there. Looking up under passenger's side of dash:
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Is this a complete tool kit? Where does it mount, in the netting on the firewall behind the seats? Does the owner's manual also store there?
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Under driver's side of dash- what is this green connector for?
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Lastly, in the trunk, there is a bunch of wiring, some of it to the Accusump, which I will need to read up on (appears to be working). There are at least two grounds not connected, as well as some wiring connectors. What is this all for? Tech at Lotus dealer did not even know as he had never seen a 260 sport before!

There are 2 wiring harnesses entering near the battery. "Primary" harness (for lack of a better term) has an extra ground that is not connected as well as this connector with green/black wires:
IMG_7022.jpeg IMG_7029.jpeg IMG_7030.jpeg

Secondary harness leads to Accusump and has a ground that is not connected, as well as some white connectors that are linked and a fuse. The whole Accusump wiring looks a little "janky" considering the caliber of this vehicle:
IMG_7032.jpeg IMG_7033.jpeg
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Last shot of the Accusump:

IMG_7023.jpeg

Found some instructions on here for changing oil when you have the Accusump system. It says there is a manual switch near the steering wheel for the Accusump system. Where is it? Where is the "quick oil drain valve" for the Accusump? Is the inline Accusump filter that is supposed to be changed in the engine bay under the car?
 

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The headlights thing is normal, kind of a “ghetto” DRL thing with the parking lights on. Look up “green wire mod” on here. Unplugging a single wire will make it such that your headlights aren’t always on (and only come on when you turn on the headlights).


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No the panel doesnt come off.

yes those wires just hang around

That wire under the drivers side is unused in the US it's for the clutch switch.
 

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Both LH and RH panels come off and are interchangeable for LH or RH driver position. LH drive, RH panel gives access to passenger Air bag. and other wires for modifications.

There is room for 3rd switch under Head Light switch for Fog Lights. Fog lights only come on with brights. There is a mod to use the Fog lights as DRL (always on). 2005 does not have DRL.
 

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Is this a complete tool kit? Where does it mount, in the netting on the firewall behind the seats? Does the owner's manual also store there?
I do not have more tools than you. With an normal size battery, there is a cover which hide it in the trunk and on the upper part of this cover there is a place for the manual and tools. Since we do not have a standard battery, the netting on the firewall behind the seats is a good place.
 

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There are 2 wiring harnesses entering near the battery. "Primary" harness (for lack of a better term) has an extra ground that is not connected as well as this connector with green/black wires:
I have in my car...:

  • The "Primary" harness
  • A battery charger plug..., you seems also to have one.
  • A ground for the accusump...
  • The unconnected plug with black/grenn wire. Like you... I do not know for what it is.
Hum, is you accusump really working? When you put the ignition, without starting the car, the pressure of the accusump should drop to from ~80 to ~ 40psi...
 

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2010 Exige S260
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Uninstall the accusump, its useless junk anyway. All you need is the baffled oil pan.
 

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Kubera, I have an S260 as well and a Boe pan... Was thinking about also removing the accusump. What's the benefit if it's already behaving, not leaking, etc?
 

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2010 Lotus Exige S260 Sport
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Uninstall the accusump, its useless junk anyway. All you need is the baffled oil pan.
I wouldn’t say it’s completely useless. The following page is from Trackspec where they ran with the accusump and oil pressure data.


You can see accusump kicking in and bringing back the oil pressure up. I still have the accusump and the only time I can see myself uninstalling it, is for a dry sump. I understand the tastes may differ, but op should at least keep his accusump until he gets a wet sump in.

Oh and, congratulations to your new S260, OP. You gonna enjoy it. Make sure you do the oil line recall before you blow that engine up. Depending on mileage, I’d change to spherical bearings if I have a chance. Check for leaks on that Ohlins you have, it’s been 10-11 years since that car has been delivered, possibly revalve/rebuild with Ohlins specialist. Get the alignment done, you will see that you get the car that’s a handling masterpiece compared to the original S260 by just doing those little things.

Cheers
 

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2010 Exige S260
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@FyndFyre I own 2 2010 S260's (one race car and street) and I have taken the accusump out of both of them. It is a waste of weight, plumbing, one more thing that can leak oil. (not to mention can't use the trunk) Better off to remove it and have upgraded oil pump or have external oil pump. Of course remove the cat and use Redline race oil or Motul.
 

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@FyndFyre I own 2 2010 S260's (one race car and street) and I have taken the accusump out of both of them. It is a waste of weight, plumbing, one more thing that can leak oil. (not to mention can't use the trunk) Better off to remove it and have upgraded oil pump or have external oil pump. Of course remove the cat and use Redline race oil or Motul.
I agree with you on more complexity, weight and plumbing. However, I was just telling OP to stick with it until he has a wet sump at least. Wet sump with other a few assortment of items will run him close to 700$ or external oil pump such as waldon or the uprated gerotor pumps will run him at least 500$ in parts alone not counting the labors. Not sure OP is willing to get that radical in this early stages of ownership. So I was just recommending better safe than sorry approach. Data at least shows accusump working as it was intended, so I wouldn’t go so far as it being a waste if you don’t have any of the aforementioned parts installed for oil starvation at the corners.

I agree with the removing the cat, but be sure to check your local dmv regulations. Silenced decat pipe might be a solution if your local tracks are being strict on noise levels. I used to use Mobil 1, now I’m on Motul. Cup Non-street legal version must be a joy to drive on track.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks for the info guys. I will read the accusump threads and double check my system. It was definitely working before the lotus dealer changed the oil during the oil line recall work (tech had never seen a 260 or a car with an accusump). Now it seems to just be pegged out at 90psi and never changing. Perhaps this is because the ground for it is not even connected..?

If I love the car and intend to keep it, I will upgrade the oil pan and a host of other parts. I need to see how well I jive with the chassis before I start spending big money on it. The shifter feels like something out of a dump truck. Honestly feels like a bad joke given how the car feels otherwise! I found some threads and it seems it is TWO THOUSAND dollars and a pain in the ass install to fix it properly..?!

Next will be pulling the shims, corner balance and alignment.
 

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I rarely tinker with my accusump, not even at oil change. If you are worried about old oil, you got a big headache ahead of you. Even if you managed to drain out all the oil out of the engine and accusump at oil change, how do you suppose we drain the oil out of two front oil coolers and the 30 feet or so oil lines? If you truly want to do things the proper way, you absolutely have no choice than to remove the front oil coolers and install either the Laminova solution, or get a rear oil cooler, or a dry sump.

But then again, this is just to demonstrate how you shouldn’t overthink a lot on this car as not a lot of people I have seen have suffered negatively from all these deficiencies. Enjoy the car, change the oil at 5k miles, use a short interval rated motul if you want at this point if you are looking to change the oil often. I try to alleviate that problem by short oil change intervals for now. You can see how long the oil cooler lines are in the following thread below.


You don’t really need a 2000$ shifter solution at first. Let your dealer or mechanic tighten the base of the shifter and it will feel a lifetime difference. Shifter base tightening, corner balance and alignment would be best money spent per return at this point barring any part upgrades.

Keeping the car, you gonna have to appreciate what you have in the first place. What you have isn’t a regular S260 but a very rare street legal version of Cup 260. Below is the aggregate information for your car and your fellow brethren unicorns.

 

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Discussion Starter #15
Yes I realize I cannot get all of the oil out and am not worried about it at all. I DO want my accusump to work again though. As I said, for now it is pegged at 90psi and never changing, whereas before I watched it at 45psi at high idle prior to the oil change (dealer did the oil line recall right when I bought it and changed the oil at the same time, but I will be DIY from here on out). Is the ground wire on the wiring harness that leads to the accusump connected to the battery on yours? I wasn't sure if that was supposed to be disconnected and used when servicing or something.

I need to find a factory repair manual and will try adjusting the shifter myself. I found threads on "Stan's mod" and adding stacks of washers, so I can try the cheap fixes first. It feels like it is attached by rubber bands and bungee cords. 5-4 and 3-2 downshifts are the worst. The throws are incredibly long too.

I can adjust the ride height and do the corner balance and alignment myself, and will check it on a rack the first time. The steering is supposed to be "telepathic," but I would not describe it this way at all at the moment. The tires on the car are bricked out, so I have a set of R888's ordered. I am definitely excited to get the car dialed in and see how it feels!
 

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To drain the oil out of the oil coolers is not really that hard. It will require some extra hardware to be added but it's not that bad. What I did was change the ends of the lines that go to the oil sandwich plate to quick disconnects. Then I got a small 12V pump designed to remove oil from a boat motor. Put mating connectors on this setup to fit the quick disconnects. Now, I can put a pickup tube in the fresh oil that goes to the pump. The other side of the pump goes to one of the oil cooler lines. The other quick disconnect gets a clear hose attached to it which goes to the used oil can. I run the oil until the oil looks clear and I'm done. You don't need to do this every oil change but it should be done from time to time.
Later,
Eldon
 

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1268465


Sorry, I missed that part of the question. My accusump is grounded as you can see in the picture.

1268466


Rest pressure level after all nightabove picture.
1268467


Preignition without running the engine, pressure relieved to 15 psi, above picture.

1268468


Pressure back at 70psi after ignition.

You might have to get a specialist check out if your dealer is out of depth for this one. Where are you located? The following thread below has your fellow enthusiasts with almost the same pressure figuring things out on their own. It might be of help to you.


This is my alignment setting right now. I might go with negative 2.2 camber on the front next time since there is a potential to rub at full lock on the right front tire at full lock right. Other than that, it’s almost a dream to drive with these settings on r888.

1268469
 

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To drain the oil out of the oil coolers is not really that hard. It will require some extra hardware to be added but it's not that bad. What I did was change the ends of the lines that go to the oil sandwich plate to quick disconnects. Then I got a small 12V pump designed to remove oil from a boat motor. Put mating connectors on this setup to fit the quick disconnects. Now, I can put a pickup tube in the fresh oil that goes to the pump. The other side of the pump goes to one of the oil cooler lines. The other quick disconnect gets a clear hose attached to it which goes to the used oil can. I run the oil until the oil looks clear and I'm done. You don't need to do this every oil change but it should be done from time to time.
Later,
Eldon
@eldonz Be my mechanic next time you come to CA? Drinks and dinner on me? 😝😜Thank you so much for the tip. Learned a new trick today.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
FyndFrye guessing my accusump problem is that the ground was not hooked back up in this case, which will make for an easy fix ;). I will read the accusump thread regardless to get up to speed. I thought we could only get -1.0 camber with the shims removed? All of the threads seem to indicate this. Do you have some aftermarket suspension parts enabling more?
 
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