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Discussion Starter #1
Hey everyone,

I recently acquired this 2006 Elise. To be honest, I never in a million years would have purchased this but it kind of fell into my lap at a super low price. I don’t know a single thing about the cars so I’m looking for some help on exactly what I’ve got here.

I know it’s 2006 Elise Roadster? Seats are cloth. Anyone know about the aero kit that’s on it? Doesn’t seem to be something I’ve seen on a lot of Elises. What else should I look for that will differentiate packages?

That’s really all I’ve got right now. Working on tracking down more paperwork but nothing other than a title right now.


2006 Lotus Elise BRG
215 Posts
Cloth means you also have crank windows and no Touring package (some people prefer this). You have Sport Package wheels but that doesn't guarantee Sport Package.
Don't know about the aero kit, I'm sure someone does.
Also interesting your 06 has the lower reflectors from an 05.

1,543 Posts
Do you have further away and lower photo of front splitter. Where it meets the wheel sort of looks like NCI full race.

437 Posts
I think I saw that for sale briefly.. rare color and if you wanted to autocross in SCCA AStreet may be a great starting point as it's the lightest combo! Pics of interior and door jamb front tire size will tell if is sport pak. If stock shocks & springs, post pics to confirm that.

Looked for a while for my Chrome orange and saw that color you have and at first didn't like it, but it's growing on e.. Congrats on a Krypton Green gem!

Premium Member
11,855 Posts
Note to new Elise & Exige Owners:

1. These cars have large (i.e. dangerous) blind spots. Multivex mirrors are NLA, but RLS (Really Light Stuff) offers very good tape-on replacements.

2. The horns are way too weak (quiet). There’s an inverse relationship: smaller the car, louder the horn needs to be.

Get something such as a Stebel Nautilus.

Stebel: “HONK! LOOK OUT!”

Remove the stock horn; replace with louder.

(I drive with my finger on the horn button in any traffic. Iffy situations, my headlights are on.

Stay to the left of traffic, i.e. avoid passing on the right if you can.

Stop way behind trucks, SUVs, etc. Some have blindspots >50’. )

3. The early cars came with misaimed and dim headlights. If you drive at night, convert to HIDs. While better than stock halogen bulbs are available, HIDs throw more light. Stay around 5000k. As of this writing LEDs are not as good.

4. Ensure your car has had the work required by the recall for oil line fittings done. You could lose an engine and/or spin in your own oil.

5. Transmission:

The best transmission lube I’ve found is Redline MT-90 plus a little Power Punch Extreme Gear Oil Additive. (Note that it takes two changes to get rid of the previous lube.)

a) Early cars have wobbly shift towers. Look up Stan’s Mod (bolt and spacer; and

And, use:

Re-Enforcer long thru bolts that terminate under car and tie down the tower:

These (lube, mods) make a huge change in shifting.

6. As per some engine builders on these sites, wait AT LEAST 20 -35 minutes aftercoolant has reached full operating temp before engaging cam switchover.

For street cars, consider removing one or both oil coolers. Some cover them. Oil doesn’t get hot enough on street, leading to cam wiping.

I use Mobil 1 5W-40 Turbo Diesel oil. 85k miles and fine, but one is not a useful example.

7. Rear toe-links can loosen and break with disastrous results. You can check tq periodically, or use Nordlock washers. Best is conversion to better engineered brace, such as BOE’s InoKinetic’s for two examples.

8. While under the car with panel off, look around for hoses and wires chafing their way to failure. That’s how this was found:

9. The stock radiators are prone to leaking where the end caps meet the metal part. Keep an eye on this. Most of us use single-pass all-aluminum radiators.

10. When your wheel well liner comes loose, skip the lame plastic rivet and use Well-Nuts instead.

11. Life will be better if you disable the auto-arming alarm function on the earlier cars. You won’t have to press a button to start the car. Instructions:

Remote Key Fob, Immobilizer & Misc Alarm Programming

12. These cars cannot be left off a Battery Tender for weeks at a time. Unless dead batteries are a particular joy of yours. Buy one right away. There are numerous threads here about which ppl use and like.

You NEED a digital multimeter (voltmeter) to work on modern cars. Handy around house too. Get one this week.

13, Some on this site are a bit obsessed with hockey pucks for lifting the car. Don’t use these. Too hard and slippery, generally, and too small a surface area. Use a piece of wood, as your hero does.

14. If you are fooling with sparkplugs, remember to slather those tubes in dielectric grease (prevents shorts).

15. Visit the Uber Thread

**Elise/Exige Uberpost READ THIS. Everything you need to know is in here**

16. Most parts on the car are made by Toyota and others, so buying things like a/c compressors, engine parts, etc. is wildly expensive when purchased thru Lotus.

Toyota dealers, auto parts stores are way less expensive.

17. The soft high-grip tires on most of our cars lose much of that grip when temperatures drop below 50 F. I know of too many ppl who spun their cars when not remembering this. I use hi-performance all-seasons.

Note that many summer tires cannot even be stored in temps below 20 F.


Plus, “How to bleed brakes”:

How to Bleed Brakes

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