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Great news... I was holding off on the group buy for the SuperCharger hoping someone would make one that offered a bigger bang, the first ones didn't seem too offer much over a stock engine setup.


The "first ones" do offer much over a stock engine. You can drive mine when it's finished and see for yourself -poke- But this is going to blow them away. You'll be seeing turbocharger-like power :p




Put me on the list of buyers!!!!
 

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I'm remarking about your 'costly' statement, a reflash from me for these types of kits costs $600 base, thats it nothing else is needed, it'll be safer and have as much power as the standalone stuff, and it'll pass sniffer and OBD II, you need an efi standalone, a harness, and tuning, which is considerably more, yes you can retune to your hearts content and if thats your goal you ought to install a standalone, but it'll cost a lot more in the long run.

i charge $100 ph at the dyno, for the intial tuning, if its not right or needs tweaking, i don't charge addtional fees, even if it needs a few times , i don't charge for street tuning either, and other people get the benefit of any custom tuning since i can provide those updates, the last time i did that it was $25.

i think those going the way of a standalone are being true to the spirit of the hacker, and i wholly support that, but as with life you're taking a tiny percentile.

I just don't see where you get 'costly' from, thats all


In other words...




Charlie is God...



And a great guy to do business with! :nanner2::nanner2::nanner2:
 

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Seems logical to replace the pump and be done with it. Why cheap out on a $150 part? There's good evidence that it's not even marginal. People here are considering a $3,000+ upgrade from BOE and they're debating a $150 part? rotfl

Only the know-it-alls are debating it. It's not even a question for me...
 

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Understood...and again if you gain back at least 10ft lbs TQ to compensate for lower CR than you would be around where I am...184tq, although I'm still running with 1 lb less boost.

Is it also true that a lower compression runs cooler temps? Someone mentioned that to me but Im not sure how much cooler the difference could be.
Peak numbers are very similar, but I don't think the powerband would be near as meaty with the MP62...
 

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I have some EFI questions before committing...

1. How does it affect emissions inspection, or OBD emissions testing, or whatever kind of testing is done at the time of inspection?

2. How difficult is it to install properly and un-install properly? Approximate labor time?

3. How difficult is it to tune?



That's all :eek:
 

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Can't really debate much said, just don't know enough about the physics involved. But still doesn't seem like that is a good measure of drag -- physical reality of the size and shape of a Mustang GT front windshield is no where near as "slippery" as that of my S.

Does CD include the downforce greated with the air flowing up thru the nose into radiators? Can't believe that produces more drag than air hitting a perpendicular flat radiator in a Mustang GT. The Mustang GT also has NO undertray, plenty of odd drag inducing shapes for the air to find it's way around.

So what specifically is causing such a high CD?

Where's Adrian Newey when ya need him ;)

xtn - yes you are correct (and no that didn't cause engine failure - that was 6 mo. prior to my car seeing a track).

You would use the measurement of cd*A (frontal area) to measure the REAL drag of a car. And if you use the cdA unit, you'll find the Elise is not really that much more inefficient than a C6 Corvette.


Is it not true that downforce and lift have the same effect on drag?
 
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