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Shaggy said:
I ended up wrapping some electrical tape around points of contact (when lid is closed) and playing with the adjustments to try and cease the rattling but it hasn't cured it (although its slightly muffled). It sucks because it only rattles at idle, at least as far as I can tell, but that gets annoying as hell when the cars warming up in the morning or your sitting at a long stop light.

Any ideas?
Stage II
 

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definitely don't overtighten the bolts. Got back from WCLM on Sunday and opened the lid to get stuff out, but the heat from the 5 hours drive caused expansion that made the joints to sticky, and heated the aluminum enough to where it bent when I tried to open the lid. Got the piece straighted and loosened the bolts a bit more and now all is well, though admittedly I haven't tested it yet with another 5 hour drive.
 

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Got mine today and installed it, Nice product but took the time to sand down the sharp edges from the product being stamped out - Also, just by looking at the design I knew it needed some nylon washers between the metal - to -Metal pivot points (3) so I cut three out of some larger washers I had laying around using the supplied larger metal washers as a template for the nylon washers then just added a little lock-tite and viola it works perfectly,
I like it but highly recommend the the nylon washer routine!
NZ
Oh yeah, no rattle with the nylon washers :)
 

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Ding on a great product and +1 on the sanding and the rubber gromets between the metal at the pivot point. You have to play a bit with the loose/tight of the nuts at to get it to work properly.
 

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ZTEC said:
I knew it needed some nylon washers between the metal - to -Metal pivot points (3) so I cut three out of some larger washers I had laying around
BTW, if you're looking for nylon washers in Home Depot and can't find any in hardware, go over to electrical and get a 4-pack of Gardner Bender (GB) 1-inch white plastic clamps.



The long flat end of the clamp can easily be trimmed into a makeshift washer. The hole is already the right size for the LIDbone bolts.

And as others have mentioned the edges on the LIDbone parts are a bit sharp, so some sort of deburring tool (sandpaper, metal file, etc) will be useful.
 

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Right on, add me to yoru interested list, please!!! :coolnana:
 

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I have the Lidbone (I believe it is still sold). It's "OK". I had to modify mine so it would not score the top of the coil pack cover. I have also added teflon washers so it does not rattle.

If I were doing it now... would probably try this item: GRP Trunk Support - Elise ? On Rails Engineering

I have not seen a review of it though....
 

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I have the Lidbone (I believe it is still sold). It's "OK". I had to modify mine so it would not score the top of the coil pack cover. I have also added teflon washers so it does not rattle.

If I were doing it now... would probably try this item: GRP Trunk Support - Elise ? On Rails Engineering

I have not seen a review of it though....
We have sold a bunch of these and run these in all of our cars. They make things so much more convenient.
 

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If I were doing it now... would probably try this item: GRP Trunk Support - Elise ? On Rails Engineering

I have not seen a review of it though....
I bought the GRP hydraulic trunk support and I HIGHLY recommend it! It's easy to install, looks great, and works just like it should. I can easily open my trunk one handed (while carrying something to put in the truck in my other hand). It lifts higher then the original trunk support, but protects the roll bar from getting hit from lifting the trunk lid too high. THIS IS A MUST HAVE ITEM, along with a sector 111 bootie! 2 items that should have come stock from the factory and don't really add much weight.
 

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I absolutely agree the strut works perfectly and there's no more leaning over the edge to lock or unlock the lidBone.
 
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