[Cody D]

Hello all, just finished up the supercharger upgrade on an Exige, now I cannot get the car to crank. I have found a lot of helpful threads and I have given their suggestions a try.

- I've tested all fuses in the car include F13 and R3.
- Bump tested the starter.

Things I am 99% on:

- Imobilizer is off
- Start button works, headlights shut off when start button is pressed
- Starter works when I directly power it
- Fuel pump turns on
- I am using a battery charger with engine start, holding ~13.5 volts, so I doubt I'm lacking battery.

Things I am questioning:

- Grounds, I have the car on a lift and I have traced the grounds and they all seem fine, but I'm not 100%.
- ECU, could it be fried?
- Misc plug that isn't connected

Thanks.

Update Edit #1: Under car when someone else presses start button, there is a definite click from the starter solenoid.
Update Edit #2: Testing ground resistance shows that the engine and everything has good ground, I'm not the best at using a volt meter but I'm getting near 0 ohms when testing various spots.

 

[addertooth]

Put the car in 6th gear, move the car 6 inches, put the car in neutral, see if it starts.

 

[Cody D]

Put the car in 6th gear, move the car 6 inches, put the car in neutral, see if it starts.

I put the car in 6th, rotated the tires (on a 2 post lift) then tried starting, no luck. Just out of curiosity, what is this trying to do?

We did the clutch as well, is there a switch for the clutch pedal that could be not engaging? If this switch wasn't engaging though I shouldn't hear the click at the starter right?

 

[turbophil]

Check the starter and MFRP wiring close to be sure you didn't miss something on the tranny work.

Seems silly but you're pushing the clutch in to disengage clutch lock out, yes?

 

[SirLotus]

Check fuse F11 & R2.
Michael

 

[Cody D]

Check the starter and MFRP wiring close to be sure you didn't miss something on the tranny work.

Seems silly but you're pushing the clutch in to disengage clutch lock out, yes?

MFRP is my next check, it's going to be tight though. Starter, we didn't disconnect so I think the wiring is good, I will still take a close look at it.

Not silly at all, I have been pushing the clutch in but I keep thinking that if it's not properly connected to the transmission maybe the clutch lock out isn't being disengaged.

 

[Cody D]

While under looking at the MFRU I found these two connections not hooked up, off the top of my head I think they are for the intake or the IAT and that is why I didn't use them but I've been building this over a couple months when I have time and I could be totally wrong.

 

[addertooth]

The goal of pushing the car (on the ground) was to rotate the ring gear the starter engages. When the solenoid pushes the pinion gear on the starter to align with the ring gear, it can force the starter to rotate slightly. This can get a starter to move past a dead spot on the contacts/brushes. If both rear wheels are lifted, rotating one wheel at a time will not rotate the engine because of the differential. The fact you can bridge the connections on the starter, and get it to turn over would normally indicate it is not a dead-spot issue, but I never rule out old fashioned bad luck (the starter could have stopped rotating on a dead spot).

 

[Cody D]

Check fuse F11 & R2.
Michael

I have now tested all fuses with a volt-meter and they are good.

The goal of pushing the car (on the ground) was to rotate the ring gear the starter engages. When the solenoid pushes the pinion gear on the starter to align with the ring gear, it can force the starter to rotate slightly. This can get a starter to move past a dead spot on the contacts/brushes. If both rear wheels are lifted, rotating one wheel at a time will not rotate the engine because of the differential. The fact you can bridge the connections on the starter, and get it to turn over would normally indicate it is not a dead-spot issue, but I never rule out old fashioned bad luck (the starter could have stopped rotating on a dead spot).

Thanks, if it was a dead spot on the starter I would still hear the starter spin though I think and I don't. I'm not ruling out the starter so I may give it a couple of love taps just to make sure.

 

[addertooth]

The clicky clicky is the solenoid on the starter engaging, if the starter motor does not spin, then it can be a dead spot where the brushes meet the commutator on the shaft of the motor. Also, if the solenoid is week, it can prevent the brushes from making contact.

 

[Cody D]

The clicky clicky is the solenoid on the starter engaging, if the starter motor does not spin, then it can be a dead spot where the brushes meet the commutator on the shaft of the motor. Also, if the solenoid is week, it can prevent the brushes from making contact.

Awesome, I will likely get another starter to test. If I directly power the starter and it spins will the car start if the key is on? I bypassed it and let it spin for about 5 seconds and the engine did not fire.

 

[Cody D]

Here is a video of me trying to start the car. My question is when the "check engine" light flashes is that telling me something specific?

Exige Start - YouTube

 

[sturgeongeneral]

Have you tried hooking up an obd2 reader and looked for a code? That may point the way.

 

[SirLotus]

You have a fuel or ignition problem. Pull the injectors and spark plugs and see if they are operable.
Michael

 

[Cody D]

Have you tried hooking up an obd2 reader and looked for a code? That may point the way.

We had three, P0158 Oxygen Sensor, P0205 Injector Circuit Open and P0138. We cleared them but I don't have the OBD2 reader with me right now to double check if they came back.

You have a fuel or ignition problem. Pull the injectors and spark plugs and see if they are operable.
Michael

Okay, will do.

I took the MFRU apart, there is some browning on there but I saw no corrosion. Opinions?

 

[Cody D]

SirLotus, you posted this:

Of course, it would be easy to bypass the MFRU as a test.
Starter - thick brown to thick black
Fuel - purple to purple
Engine - brown to brown/pink

My MFRU lines are two thick brown, two purple, two brown/pink, one black and one red.

 

[Cody D]

You have a fuel or ignition problem. Pull the injectors and spark plugs and see if they are operable.
Michael

Michael, one other question, even if I had zero fuel or ignition the starter would still crank would it not?

 

[Cody D]

The starter is no longer clicking. I have a new theory that when I plugged in the ECU cable I could have somehow messed up the ECU.

 

[HKFEVER]

Did you mistakingly pulg in the front MFRU to the rear plug. Front and rear MFRU look almost the same.

 

[Cody D]

Did you mistakingly pulg in the front MFRU to the rear plug. Front and rear MFRU look almost the same.

I don't believe that I had unhooked the MFRU until today while troubleshooting, where is the second MFRU located? I just worked with the one on the firewall below the ECU today.