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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Heres the previous thread of the no start problem ive been having http://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f101/no-start-74881/

Here is what is happening. Elise sat for acouple days. The car cranks and im getting power to the windows, lights etc. Fuel gauge reads full and it started then stalled out. Fuel gauge then reads empty. Car just cranks. I installed an optima red top 35 battery today and i get the same thing, fuel gauge reading zero. I am getting no power to the injectors or the coils. Battery voltage is 12.3v. The left fuse box on the firewall is receiving battery voltage but the right side (one of the fuses is for the injectors and coils in this fuse box) are only receiving 4-5volts.
 

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Check fuse R7 in the engine bay and then the Engine Control Relay in the Multi-Function Relay Unit below those fuses. Check the Multi-Function Relay Unit plug connector for corrosion. Battery voltage appears to be low as it should be approx. 12.6V, 12.3V is under 50% charged. BTW, taking a battery voltage reading within hours of it being charged will not give an accurate reading.
Michael
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Check fuse R7 in the engine bay and then the Engine Control Relay in the Multi-Function Relay Unit below those fuses. Check the Multi-Function Relay Unit plug connector for corrosion. Battery voltage appears to be low as it should be approx. 12.6V, 12.3V is under 50% charged. BTW, taking a battery voltage reading within hours of it being charged will not give an accurate reading.
Michael
no corrosion on the connectors to the mfru. battery is yet again another brand new one. It was delivered to me this morning. The battery tester i have says its good, 900+ ca @ 12.3v R7 fuse is good

Engine Control Relay is in the mfru? how do i check that other than looking for corrosion? Why would I be getting battery voltage at the fuses R1-R4 but only 5v @ fuses R5-R7? After I got the car running last time i had battery voltage @ fuses R1-R7

Owners manual says 12.8v is what the battery should be at i believe. Does that .5v have anything to do with the no start?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
i got to the mfru (pain in the ass) and took it apart. It definitely has some corrosion in it. I cleaned it up alittle and now it starts and the gas gauge reads correct agn.

Anyone know how much a mfru costs?
 

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That's great news. The 5V you were seeing was probably the backflow from the ECU & the corroded relay was shutting off power to the R6 & R7 fuses. Anything less than 12.35V and sulfation starts which destroys the battery.
Michael
i got to the mfru (pain in the ass) and took it apart. It definitely has some corrosion in it. I cleaned it up alittle and now it starts and the gas gauge reads correct agn.

Anyone know how much a mfru costs?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
That's great news. The 5V you were seeing was probably the backflow from the ECU & the corroded relay was shutting off power to the R6 & R7 fuses. Anything less than 12.35V and sulfation starts which destroys the battery.
Michael
I printed out a copy of the wiring diagram and looked it over it at work today. I was thinking the same exact thing about the 5v reading at the fuses.
Thanks for your help again, Viper. btw my battery did test low on the tester at work so i ran our automatic battery charger on it. good as new now!


RoadDad - thanks for the info :)
 
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