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Discussion Starter #1
How much pedal travel between engaged and disengaged is normal on the clutch?

Maybe it's because I've not driven my Elise for 4 weeks and I'm not used to it, but the distance between engaged and disengaged on mine is tiny. It feels like the clutch disengages within the first inch of pedal travel and I've really not been shifting smooth because of it today.

Is this normal or not?

Thanks,
Luke
 

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How much pedal travel between engaged and disengaged is normal on the clutch?

Maybe it's because I've not driven my Elise for 4 weeks and I'm not used to it, but the distance between engaged and disengaged on mine is tiny. It feels like the clutch disengages within the first inch of pedal travel and I've really not been shifting smooth because of it today.

Is this normal or not?

Thanks,
Luke
Most people complain that there is too MUCH travel. In fact, there's a mod called Stan's clutch pedal mod (which I've done) which REDUCES the travel. Search on here or (if it's no longer up on here) search on Monkeytuner.com.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
There is a ton of travel, but the distance between engaged and disengaged is tiny. After driving it for the weekend I'm used to it again. I suppose thats what happens when you don't drive the Elise for a month and drive a regular car with a light clutch and smooth shift.

The clutch pedal mod sounds like a good idea now.
 

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Even though the distance is miniscule, the manual is specific "[To avoid unnecessary clutch wear] The clutch pedal must be fully depressed during each gear shift." I find myself only half engaging the clutch to shift... I've never had to replace a clutch yet in any of my manual trans cars, so I must not wear them too bad.
 

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I find myself only half engaging the clutch to shift... I've never had to replace a clutch yet in any of my manual trans cars, so I must not wear them too bad.
That's weird.... I sometimes find myself pressing the pedal halfway down, but the clutch itself is fully DISengaged by that point.

xtn
 

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Credit to Stan, originally posted at MoreMonkey.com

Okay here is the advanced adjustable version. It is Chapmanesque as the bolt simultaneously retains the steering rack while acting as an adjustable Clutch Stop. Colin would love it! Elegant, simple, light, cheap.

All you need is an 8mm bolt with the standard 1.25mm thread pitch. It needs to be 50mm long which is commonly available.
M8x1.25x50mm (you don't use the doorstop in this instance, it's one approach or the other).

I used a fully threaded stainless steel bolt from the local hardware store. See picture. You need an 8mm nut, and can reuse the stock washer or spring a few cents for a new one.

* Remove the lower steering rack bolt using a 13mm tool. No, your alignment is not changed.

* Replace the stock bolt with the 50mm bolt (Thread the nut onto it about like in the first photo...)

* Adjust the length of the 50mm bolt until you are happy with the clutch avtion, then tighten the nut. This locks the clutch stop, and retains the steering rack.

* You adjust the stop iteratively. Start the car in neutral, e-brake on hard. Step on the clutch and gently see if you can select a gear with normal effort and no lurch or crunch. Don't force anything. High effort => reset the stop lower by turning the bolt (with loose nut) clockwise about one turn. Repeat. If the lever easily selects a gear...observe how much your foot can be raised before the clutch starts engaging. Decide if that is okay, if not then back off the bolt (counter clockwise) to cut wasted travel. Make sure that you have at least one + bolt diameter threaded into the rack. Tighten the nut to factory torque or about 1/8 turn past contact.

* You can choose clicks or no clicks....as in that sound the clutch pedal can make at the bottom. Add/remove the stock rubber pad, use a bolt head cap (see pic), etc. Make sure you adjust the bolt *after* you have set the stop as any cushioning takes up space.

* This setup will allow zero wasted travel whatever you want.

* If you set it for very low slop, be prepared to have others who drive your car stall it a bunch of times...

* I'll adjust these notes as I go along...

* I hope that many of you find this mod useful and helpful.
 

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I'm not sure this mod will work with reverse gear.
When parked on a steep decline, car facing forward, I need to fully depress the clutch to engage reverse. Otherwise, all the forward gears would be fine.

Does anyone have to fully depress the clutch to engage reverse on a decline or incline?
-Robert

Great mod though...I did the Stan Shifter mod in conjunction with the S111 mod utilizing ACE hardware parts and it has made a measureable difference in shifter feel.

The 2008 Car and Driver "Lightning Lap" guys complained of the 2008 SC Elise's
sloppy shifter feel. Why hasn't Lotus corrected such a glaring problem?
Don't they peruse these boards?
Robert
 

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Travel shouldn't matter for getting into reverse as long as you can fully disengage. If you have it set really close, the sychros on the other gears might be letting you get away with not fully disengaging. Either that or the extra time it takes to push the pedal all the way down gives the input shaft time to slow down and stop, making it easier to get into reverse. Try pausing after depressing the clutch before putting it in reverse. Just a thought.
 

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Travel shouldn't matter for getting into reverse as long as you can fully disengage. If you have it set really close, the sychros on the other gears might be letting you get away with not fully disengaging. Either that or the extra time it takes to push the pedal all the way down gives the input shaft time to slow down and stop, making it easier to get into reverse. Try pausing after depressing the clutch before putting it in reverse. Just a thought.
thanks
 

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Anyone here hacked a good solution for an '06 or '07? The rack bolt is no longer directly behind the clutch arm in the newer cars. Just the door stopper stuck to the "firewall" maybe? Is the firewall structural enough?
 

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Anyone here hacked a good solution for an '06 or '07? The rack bolt is no longer directly behind the clutch arm in the newer cars. Just the door stopper stuck to the "firewall" maybe? Is the firewall structural enough?
I bought several sized washers plus fabricated a piece of steel that I cut out of a Simpson steel plate (bought at Home Depot) that was about 2" long and 1" high, rounded (to match big washer) at one end, and square at other (where clutch arm hits). I drilled a hole in this new bracket to match the washer hole. Then, I put a small washer on 50MM bolt, then my fabbed steel piece, then a larger washer, then a small washer and then a nut. I socked the nut up really tight. Then I installed a second nut towards the bottom of the 50MM bolt to sock up tight to firewall, steering rack bracket. I bought some very small thin vinyl self stick wafers to stick on the metal bracket I fabbed which keeps the pedal from "clicking" when it hits the new stop.

The whole thing would have been much easier if I could find a washer big enough to work but I did not want to take a chance that the pedal would slip by the new revised stop and then get stuck "disengaged".

At some point, I will see if I can get picture, if that would help.
 

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That's weird.... I sometimes find myself pressing the pedal halfway down, but the clutch itself is fully DISengaged by that point.

xtn
Thats true for first gear, but not reverse. Nothing less that 100% clutch press will avoid gear grind sound going into reverse. :sad:
 

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Here's my hack for an '07, but it will work with any year:

Get a rubber door stopper, one of the wedge shaped ones. 75 cents.

Cut a slice down the middle of the floor side of the stopper.

Spread the slice open and put it over the vertical part of the black bracket that the bolt for the steering rack goes through.

All done. You can adjust the stop position by sliding the stopper up and down.
 

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Last weekend I did the "Stan" mod, and absolutely love it! Cost me something like 1.92US.

From start to finish, this is a 5 minute modification.

It only took me about 10 minutes to become accustom to the new positioning. It's a perfect match with the Letsla short-throw shift I've added.
 
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