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Odyssey PC925 Installation

23K views 39 replies 16 participants last post by  waspfarmer 
#1 ·
I just changed the original battery in my Elise, which was sold new in September 2004. I've been on borrowed time, as the original has not leaked, died, or slid out of the mounting brackets.

I decided to replace it with an Odyssey PC925, as it is about the same weight as the OEM and other Elise owners seem to have had good luck with them. I wanted a mounting system that would keep it from moving around, so I bought an Odyssey aluminum mount and modified it to fit my car. I bought some aluminum bar and angle from Home Depot, then modified them to fit the Odyssey bracket. Shown below are photos from start to finish, which I'll have to show in a few posts.


Here's the bracket I purchased from Odyssey, shown with the PC925:
Product Technology Electronic device


These pics show the removal of the original battery and brackets:
Electronics Technology Vehicle Auto part Electronic device


Vehicle Wire Cable Auto part Windshield


Wire Electrical wiring Cable


This shows the size of the PC925 and brackets vs. the original:
Technology Electronic component Electronic device Electronics accessory
 
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#2 ·
Here's some shots of the PC925 and brackets:

Electronics Technology Electronic device Space


I drilled a hole through the Odyssey bracket, then installed a few layers of some 3M double sided strips:
Rectangle


I installed this bracket on the nutplate:
Technology Machine


Then bolted the bracket to the fender well. The 3M strips keep it at the proper angle so that the bracket is perpendicular to the nutplate. Also note industrial strength Velcro attached to bracket and trunk floor:
Automotive exterior Auto part Trunk
 
#3 ·
I then slid the battery in after attaching the Velcro to the bottom of it:

Automotive battery Auto part Technology Vehicle Electronic device


Attached the bottom bracket with nyloc nuts and washers, then secured it to the nutplate with the original fastener:
Technology Electronic device Machine Auto part Vehicle


Attached the top bracket with nyloc nuts and washers, using 3M strips on underside of angle to cushion battery casing:
Machine Vehicle Auto part Metal Car


Attached cables:
Machine Machine tool Tool Metal


and reinstalled carpet:
Vehicle Car Machine


I recommend using the PC925 with the optional metal jacket, as it fits the bracket much better and is recommended for high-temperature environments. Also, I used blue Loctite on the original button head fasteners that attach the bracket to the car.

I'll probably reinstall the snaps for the carpet, then install the battery cover once I've driven it a few times and check the assembly for movement.
 
#4 ·
Very nice. I dont think that battery is going anywhere....

I made a strap bracket out of stainless strap that hooks to the bottom and front side of the outboard original bracket and then bolts down to the spot where the in board bracket is.

I like yours better...I may change mine to one like yours.
 
#6 ·
Why did you use the short piece of metal on the side nutplate before putting on the bracket?
Because the rivets have a shoulder on them and would have been pressed against by the Odyssey bracket if I didn't have something to protect them. The short piece of aluminum fits snugly on the rivets and the bracket touches this plate at the top and bottom. I have some 3M double-sided automotive tape located on the bracket where it contacts this plate at the top. This allows the bracket to be perpendicular to the centerline of the nutplate threads. This is important to get right, otherwise the whole assembly will try to rotate the nutplate a few degrees and put stress on the wheel well fiberglass that it is mounted in.
 
#9 ·
....looks like he's serving a long sentence.
I hope so! Some say these batteries can last ~8 years.
 
#10 ·
Hey tmr........I've been out of town for a while. Its great to see that the installation went so well. I know you had it planned out pretty well beforehand, so I am glad you didn't run into any unexpected issues. This is something that I have on my "to do list" when I get the time. Hope to catch up with you soon!
 
#11 ·
Hey tmr........I've been out of town for a while. Its great to see that the installation went so well. I know you had it planned out pretty well beforehand, so I am glad you didn't run into any unexpected issues. This is something that I have on my "to do list" when I get the time. Hope to catch up with you soon!
Cletus:

Let me know when you want to do the conversion to your car. I'll PM you with details on what you need to order.

tmr
 
#12 ·
Here's a few more photos, as I've had a few requests. PM me if anyone wants any additional detail or hints.

Technology Electronic device Electronic component


Machine Machine tool Metal Steel


Machine Machine tool Metal


Auto part Space


 
#13 ·
#14 ·
Slights mods to this excellent design

Slight mods to the original design shown:

Non-welded angle clip using counter sunk machine screws.
Back has Riveted on fender well Alum. spacer to level box
Speed nuts for holding on upper and lower straps make removal easier.
Inside corner Alum. spacers to allow battery to clear head of fender well screw.

5 hour layout, fabrication, and install time including trip to Home Depot for materials.
 

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#15 ·
Looks great! Post a few pics of it installed if you've got 'em.
 
#16 ·
Install photos

I went through an autocross tech last weekend and they said this is one on the best battery hold downs designs they saw. I did have a problem with the stock hold down battery movement and one case where it was rolling around in the trunk, but that's gone now. Thanks for posting the original design. This site is a good resource for saving time with non-recurring engineering.
 

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#17 ·
I'm glad this worked out for you, especially on a car that gets regular autocross time. I'm an engineer by trade, so I tend to go nuts on stuff like this if I can't find a readily available solution.
 
#18 ·
I needed a new battery this spring so I went for the PC925 and bracket as well. For the most part I pretty much copied exactly what you did. I found some of that ribbed rubber mat and layered it all around the bottom and sides of the battery. I also cut notches in the angle piece so the snaps still function. This setup is so solid. I'm very confident.

Thanks for the great idea tmr!
 

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#19 ·
I'm glad this worked out for you, as the ribbed material sounds like a good alternative to velcro. The only thing you might want to consider is using a metal jacket, which you can buy separately and secure to the battery with clear silicone.
 
#20 ·
Okay, I hope I don't sound too much like a girl here. What is a metal jacket? I'm looking on the Odyssey website and I am guessing that I need to buy PC925MJT, their aluminum battery mount, and the additional parts in the picture from the hardware store. And I have someone who can weld the angle piece for me because I *think* that is the only thing I can't do. Sound about right?
 
#21 · (Edited)
The Metal Jacket is a thin metal piece that surrounds the battery. You can buy the Odyssey with or without the jacket. That is what the MJ is in the part number. I like the metal jacket ones as they are more protected from the bracket rubbing.

You can rivit it all together from what I see from the above posts. No need to weld it. I did not use this bracket. I made one up out of Stainless Steel strapping.

Edit...
From looking at the pictures...why do you need to weld? doesnnt this just mount to deck?
 
#23 ·
I am under the impression that only the big piece is Odyssey's bracket. The 2 little pieces were made/purchased seperately. I'm pretty sure that the piece with the angle welded to it is not necessary, but just additional support.
 
#24 ·
You are exactly right. Odyssey's bracket is the u-shaped piece. I had some aluminum angle laying around and used that to make the lower crossmember. I lined all sides with that ribbed rubbet mat. It makes a good rubbing/vibration barrier and when you bolt it all up it is very snug. I was going to make another piece for the top, but the fit is so solid it was not necessary.

Jonathan
 
#25 ·
Okay, I hope I don't sound too much like a girl here. What is a metal jacket? I'm looking on the Odyssey website and I am guessing that I need to buy PC925MJT, their aluminum battery mount, and the additional parts in the picture from the hardware store. And I have someone who can weld the angle piece for me because I *think* that is the only thing I can't do. Sound about right?
Sorry for the tardy response, but I'm on vacation with limited access to the internet. You can buy the battery with or without the metal jacket as Tony stated. Like him, I prefer the extra protection it offers. If you cannot find one with a metal jacket, it can be installed later with silicone rtv. As for the way my brackets are fabricated, you will need to have the short angle welded to the bar flat as shown in my photos to duplicate my arrangement. Others are right that it is not completely necessary, but I wanted a "belt and suspenders" installation that would keep the battery from going anywhere. If you choose to leave out that top member with the welded angle, I'm sure you can make up for it with velcro or other means.

Tom
 
#26 ·
Here is my modified take on this.


i just drilled out holes in the bracket for the rivets and used a countersunk on the back side to give them some fudge room.
 
#28 ·
Thanks for all of the ideas in this thread, I installed one of these today:

Bill's Web Space:2011 Lotus Elise PC925 Mount

Much improved over my short term mounting solution for this battery in the old 2005.
Bill:

Glad it worked out and that you were able to copy/improve on the design! If you haven't already, you may want to get a floating charger. My first PC925 died after 1 1/2 years without it due to parasitic losses.

Tom
 
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