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Discussion Starter #1
My 06' Exige came pre-wired, Found the connectors in the front bumper, Plugged in the lights and they dont work, Tried both high beam settings, Do I need the switch panel too? Or is there a fuze missing? Thanks!
 

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You need to add the switch and panel that came with the kit. The "pre-wired" actually refers to car being pre-wired for the switch.
 

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Intriguing... I am not going to be able to help answer this but I thought the Exiges front clam had to be removed to perform this install. Looks like you have an alternate way to do it - I would like to know more about what steps are required. Didn't they come with instructions that point out fuse locations? It wouldn't surprise me if they didn't.
 

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Shawn
Just finished mine a few weeks ago. As Tim said you need to fit the extra panel and the switch. The wires were right there & labeled. To take the panel off there are 2 screws in the pocket and it requires a good tug. As for fuses / relay, (the kit should have come with a relay) it goes under the dash, right behind the computer plug. There should be a blank spot for it with the other relays in the area in your picture, you don't need to add any fuses.

The hardest part I had was locating the front plugs.

Vishus
If the car is prewired the lights can be fitted by removing the turn signals and the front grill. My connector was taped up and wrapped around tself and therefore was difficult to get at, you just need some patience... I ended up taking off the clam anyway, but it only made the operation a little easier and certainly not necessary.
 

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I thought the Exiges front clam had to be removed to perform this install.
Yes and no. The Exige front grill is glued in place from the back side, so the proper way to install the lights is to remove the clam to get to the back side of the grill (on the Elise, the grill just pops out - I take it off to wax the front of the car, as it's that easy). I seem to remember reading of people that have trimmed the grill in place and added the lights without removing the clam.
 

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OP -

If these are driving lights (i.e. not fog), skip the switch.

Use a relay to power the DLs when the high beams are on.

Less hassle, less cost, cleaner install.

In 40+ yrs of driving, I've never been in a situation where I wanted the DLs off when the high beams were on. Or, vice-versa.

K?

-g
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
I drive a 2 hour drive at night in the middle of nowhere to get back from Sebring, My Xenon lights distance is pretty sad and I ended up hitting an animal which took out my front spoiler.
Ideally I would like to turn them on with the low beams sometimes. I trip to a local stereo shop for the wiring might be a good idea.

How long does it take to get the front clam off?
Are there instructions on LT? (I am searching after this post)
My front grills are in rough shape anyway, Allot of rust, so I might replace them with the new powder coated screen I just bought.

Thanks for the help guys.
 

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Shawn
I was installing the HIDs so had the wheel wells out and figured what the hell. It wasn't difficult to remove (didn't have instructions, just undid everything we could see and then pulled gently to see where it was still attached) but since it was taken apart in stages I've no real idea how long it took. A friend helped me and we put everything back together, including the HIDS, in about 2.5 hours.
 

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I installed the light on my exige with out taking off the clam. With some chalk, snips, a screw driver, a dead blow hammer and a brave soul to start cutting into the mesh. But if you think you can handle a slight chance of screwing up the mesh and alot of patience it can be done without taking off the clam.

I was even able to bend the mesh backward to give it the cleaner look. I can take some pics to show you guys what im talking about. And some basic instructions from what i remember from the install.

Oh yea OP the kit should have, lights, relay, switch panel, and switch. Also to get them to work at any time requires cutting the supply line to the the relay (they only come on with the highs) and splicing that with whatever function you want them on. Example at anytime or when the side markers are on. I have mine setup so they turn on when the side lamps are on.
 

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skip the switch.
<...>
Less hassle, less cost, cleaner install.

In 40+ yrs of driving, I've never been in a situation where I wanted the DLs off when the high beams were on. Or, vice-versa.
Less hassle? Hacking up the wiring instead of just plugging it into the factory switch on the factory panel? I highly suspect that you would spend more time trying to hack something together as compared to just plugging things together as designed.


As for wanting to turn off the driving lights with the high beams, like I've said before, in some states, they are illegal (the laws usually limit how many lights can be on at the same time - usually four - , and low beams, high beams, and driving lights all on add up to six).

That said, my car is one that is not "pre-wired" and the driving lights always come on with the high beams...
 

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Can't imagine why anybody would want them on with the low beams. They do not have any form of beam cutoff. When you turn on these driving lights they are effectively brights anyway, so you might as well be using the full light of the bright setting.

xtn
 
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