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I've run the oil line delete mod for a couple years, but now that dealers have had time to figure out how to replace the lines, I'll probably go ahead in the late fall and get it done. In anticipation of this, I wanted to check if there's some procedure to fill the lines and oil cooler. Of what I've read, others have simply filled at the engine and let the system fill as the thermostat starts to open. Is this all I have to do?

The reason I ask is that I'll put the system back to stock and bring the car in.
 

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** The Enforcer **
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I've run the oil line delete mod for a couple years, but now that dealers have had time to figure out how to replace the lines, I'll probably go ahead in the late fall and get it done. In anticipation of this, I wanted to check if there's some procedure to fill the lines and oil cooler. Of what I've read, others have simply filled at the engine and let the system fill as the thermostat starts to open. Is this all I have to do?

The reason I ask is that I'll put the system back to stock and bring the car in.
Thermostat for the oil? The only thermostat I'm aware of is for the radiator.

San
 

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I'd really look at what people are doing with the rear mounted oil cooler. Just eliminate the front coolers, lines, and their liability for leaks and damage, and weight.

What does two coolers, all three lines, and the oil in them weigh?

And I believe you are touching on the fact that all that oil is not affected directly by a standard oil change. It just sits there and mixes back in with the fresh oil after the change. That means more oil capacity I guess but would be nice to change nearly all the oil.
 

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Here's the cooler/line filling procedure from the manual:

The foregoing oil change procedure does not disturb the oil quantity contained in the twin oil coolers and associated pipework, but is considered perfectly satisfactory for routine maintenance operations. In instances of major engine failure where the oil system may be contaminated with metallic debris, all oil cooler lines should be thoroughly flushed out and the oil cooler radiators replaced. If the oil cooler circuit is drained or replaced, the following procedure should be adopted to fill the cooler system before starting the engine:

1. Attach a tube to the bleed nipple on the sandwich plate between oil filter and engine block, and lead into a catch tank. Open the bleed nipple.
2. Disconnect the outlet hose from the top of the LH oil cooler, and pour engine oil into the cooler until oil reaches the bleed nipple (approx. 2.5 litres). Close the bleed nipple, tightening to 8 Nm.
3. Connect the LH cooler outlet hose and tighten to 40 Nm.
4. Add a further 0.7 litres of oil into the engine to accommodate the volume of the return hose between LH oil cooler and engine.
5. After starting the engine, restrict running to idle speed for a minimum of 5 minutes, to allow the oil cooler lines to be purged of air. Stop engine and re-check oil level.
 

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** The Enforcer **
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I'd really look at what people are doing with the rear mounted oil cooler. Just eliminate the front coolers, lines, and their liability for leaks and damage, and weight.

What does two coolers, all three lines, and the oil in them weigh?

And I believe you are touching on the fact that all that oil is not affected directly by a standard oil change. It just sits there and mixes back in with the fresh oil after the change. That means more oil capacity I guess but would be nice to change nearly all the oil.
Around 27 pounds. Deleting the oil coolers and going with a Laminova setup was one of my first mods. More consistent oil temperatures and better oil pressure are additional benefits.

San
 
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