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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,

I plan to run my Elise with 10 PSIg of boost on a GT2871R turbo. Now, I still have stock oil lines and I believe that this issue should be addressed before I install the turbo. I currently only have one front oil cooler. My question is; what is preferred when it comes to oil cooling when using a turbocharger ? I know that the turbo will add more heat to the oil.

My options are:

-Replace lines with better ones and keep the front cooler.
-Go with water/oil cooler, reduce weight but add more stress to the current cooling system.
-Replace the front cooler to a rear cooler to reduce weight and add oil pressure (but probably reduced efficiency though).

Anyone currently running a turbo with any of these solutions ?

Thank you.
 

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I'm running a GT2860RS at ~12psi with only a single front intercooler, (mines an early 2005) and haven't had oil temp issues. I'd be interested to hear stories of anyone who has, because maybe I need to add one of your options to my list.
 

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Wait...with the recall they added the second oil cooler?
Not sure but when my line blow out I was ****ing pissed so the guy was like I'll take care of you.. I'll do it like they have it on the track pkg since you track it... I was like your the ****ing man! But not sure if he's just blow air in my ass or if they just fixing the clamps! Ether way I'm a happy customer! :nanner:
 

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I run 2 stock oil coolers, S111 aluminum radiator on my track and race Elise at 15 psi with no overheating issues at all. Note I modified the coolers to accept AN10 lines and I run race fuel and standalone ECU (Hydra EMS). This is in Texas with near 100F ambient. I think a Laminova cooler will work, but I'd want to be sure the water radiator had enough capacity. Personally I am a believer in oil/air coolers as I personally think oil at 250F will dissipate heat better than water at 200F. The car is designed to manage airflow across three coolers and I like to use all that surface area rather than try to dissipate all engine heat in the area reserved for the water radiator. There is obviously a weight, complexity and oil pressure drop trade off to the long run up to the coolers and back. There is probably merit to both approaches.
 

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I'm running 8PSI and having no trouble with oil temp at all.
Water cooling lines into the turbo got fried by the heat at the track.
We modified them to a solid pipe that extrudes about 3in out of the housing
so now the hose doesn't fry.
At 10PSI you'll start to tax your engine internals, you plannin to upgrade your engine?
 

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I'm running 8PSI and having no trouble with oil temp at all.
Water cooling lines into the turbo got fried by the heat at the track.
We modified them to a solid pipe that extrudes about 3in out of the housing
so now the hose doesn't fry.
At 10PSI you'll start to tax your engine internals, you plannin to upgrade your engine?
"heat at the track" or heat from the engine?
 

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Heat from the engine/exhaust while at the track.
The coolant line enters the turbo in the middle of the 2 halves.
When tracking you get high sustained heat generated for prolonged periods of time. The coolant line gets cooked on both sides. I seems that normal city
driving does not create the same level of prolonged high heat at the turbo that track driving creates. See pic attached.
 

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Heat from the engine/exhaust while at the track.
The coolant line enters the turbo in the middle of the 2 halves.
When tracking you get high sustained heat generated for prolonged periods of time. The coolant line gets cooked on both sides. I seems that normal city
driving does not create the same level of prolonged high heat at the turbo that track driving creates. See pic attached.

You happen to have any pics of the modification? Sounds like something I might want to look into.
 

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You can also do the following to reduce heat

#1 rear panel eliminator
#2 side scoops to get more air through engine bay.

i did this and noticed less heat. I run two front oil cooler and have not had oil temp problems with 8 psi boost
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I'm running 8PSI and having no trouble with oil temp at all.
Water cooling lines into the turbo got fried by the heat at the track.
We modified them to a solid pipe that extrudes about 3in out of the housing
so now the hose doesn't fry.
At 10PSI you'll start to tax your engine internals, you plannin to upgrade your engine?
For now I plan to run 8 PSI max without changing internals.

I will probably set my boost controller to 5 PSI for 1st gear then 8PSI for other gears in order to try to save the trans.

Thank you for the input, it's very useful. I will add heat shields or insulators to the coolant lines.
 

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Turbo coolant and oil lines

Remember that hot water/oil/air rises. So water should enter the turbo from the bottom and exit through the top. There is more discussion about oil. It should exit throughthe bottom for better oil drainage, since it gets aerated through the turbo bearing (more so with old style thrust bearings). Better to have oil exit through the top, since it will stay in the turbo when the engine is shut off.

As far as lines. I always used good qulity steel braided lines. Steel (stainless) is a good insulator. If youwant ot be extra safe a teflon braded line or a hrard line could be used.

Anton


Heat from the engine/exhaust while at the track.
The coolant line enters the turbo in the middle of the 2 halves.
When tracking you get high sustained heat generated for prolonged periods of time. The coolant line gets cooked on both sides. I seems that normal city
driving does not create the same level of prolonged high heat at the turbo that track driving creates. See pic attached.
 

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I'm running 8PSI and having no trouble with oil temp at all.
Water cooling lines into the turbo got fried by the heat at the track.
We modified them to a solid pipe that extrudes about 3in out of the housing
so now the hose doesn't fry.
At 10PSI you'll start to tax your engine internals, you plannin to upgrade your engine?
Yea the whole 9... Pistons rods sleeve valve train the good stuff
 
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