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Discussion Starter #1
I am wondering if its ok to cap the 3 nipples with white caps on them. I know 2 of them are for the throttle body bypass and those are ok to bypass, but I didn't know what the other 1 of the 2 close ones was for....and the pictures I took before hand don't show where this connects too :(



This is the best pre picture I could find and it shows the 2 ports being used for the throttle bodyy, but the 3rd is already disconnected.
 

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I was wondering about those throttle body ports also. I ended up just connecting one to the other with a short bend.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yep thats what I did, looped 'em back to each other. Mostly because I wasn't sure how well capping them would be, but also because keeping coolant moving through the system probably isn't a bad thing.
 

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Yep thats what I did, looped 'em back to each other. Mostly because I wasn't sure how well capping them would be, but also because keeping coolant moving through the system probably isn't a bad thing.
If you want to eliminate most of this you can do the following:
Cap one white port on the head.
Run the other one to the overflow section of your coolant tank.
Take the remaining white cap, run that to the top of the recirc section of the tank (this will be how you bleed the thing)
The bottom section of the coolant tank goes to the T fitting at left side drivers chassis.

The smaller black caps can be left capped if you wish to eliminate the heat soak pump, just understand the implications of that removal.

Also, I see that you've capped off your crank breather port, that is not a good idea, you're likely to push oil from your crank seals...
 

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Look at BOE solution

I cut mine right where it turns to go to the back of the engine!
 

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I cut mine right where it turns to go to the back of the engine!
I have no idea what the boe solution is, in my case I did this:
Thermostat bypass return, threaded NPT into block with AN-6 (you could thread a block off plate too)
Factory cooler donut supply, threaded NPT plug into block
Crank breather, threaded block off plate with -10 port fitting
 

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Plug Whisperer
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You really need to leave one of the small ports on the head going to the top of the fill tank for the system to work correctly when running the stock water pump. You can cap off the second nipple on the head and the one of the metal heater return line, no problem.

As far as crank venting goes. Virtually none of the highly modified race cars run the additional OE vent line. Not mine, not Redbull, not a lot of them... The entire front cavity (behind the front cover) of the motor is open from the head down to the oil pan and there are several passages in the head that go through the block, next to the water jackets, to the crank area. In otherwords, there's way more than enough internal "venting" that makes the additional external vent not needed. At most, you'll run 2 -10 (-10 =5/8") lines from the valve cover for crank venting. Most only run 1 vent line from the remaining PCV vent and it's about .5' diameter. The reason I made the block off plate as thick as it is for threads or AN bulkhead fitting was to attach to a catch can return. Not to connect it to the valve cover...

Cheers,

Phil
 

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Also, I see that you've capped off your crank breather port, that is not a good idea, you're likely to push oil from your crank seals...
Please see my last. This statement is not correct.

-PV
 

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You really need to leave one of the small ports on the head going to the top of the fill tank for the system to work correctly when running the stock water pump. You can cap off the second nipple on the head and the one of the metal heater return line, no problem.
Did I not say that?

The reason I made the block off plate as thick as it is for threads or AN bulkhead fitting was to attach to a catch can return. Not to connect it to the valve cover...

Cheers,

Phil
Sorry to have abused your blockoff plates...

Regarding our other issue..., do you ever check your PM's?
 

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As far as crank venting goes. Virtually none of the highly modified race cars run the additional OE vent line. Not mine, not Redbull, not a lot of them... Phil
The RedBull Exige you refer to is dry sumped, it doesn't need a vent...
 

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LOL- No abuse of the plates. Just wasn't the intent. You're most certainly ill informed on the need of the additional vent though. Better to use that AN fitting you installed in the plate for a catch can return and ditch your PCV valve system. You'll find in pretty short order, that a dedicated track car driven in full anger will exhaust the limited ability of a closed loop PCV system like you're running... not to mention a sequential trannied track car that hangs out near the rev limiter. With only 1 little vent that's .5" diameter, you're still going to carry a fair amount of oil with the blow-by and fill up your little catch can. You can help the condition by running more and bigger breather lines and a bigger catch. Since that's hard to do on an elise, you're likely back to a return system from your catch.

-PV
 

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Did I not say that?


Sorry to have abused your blockoff plates...

Regarding our other issue..., do you ever check your PM's?
Sorry, I missed that part of your post... You did say that... Might add that he would not just be blocking off the heat soak pump, but the heater as well if he left the black caps in place.

If one choses to ditch the heater and heat soak pump, then you can block off the port above the stat and remove that entire metal line and just fill into the second nipple on the head... Real clean plumbing in that case... That's how my car is, FWIW...


...PMs- working on it...
 

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Sorry, I missed that part of your post... You did say that... Might add that he would not just be blocking off the heat soak pump, but the heater as well if he left the black caps in place.

If one choses to ditch the heater and heat soak pump, then you can block off the port above the stat and remove that entire metal line and just fill into the second nipple on the head... Real clean plumbing in that case... That's how my car is, FWIW...


...PMs- working on it...
Not so sure about blocking off the port above the tstat, that port is also used to return coolant flow through the engine and coolant tank when the tstat is closed...
At least that's how I see it, and how I used it.
You can see that in the pic above.

We'll see about the catch cans filling up, hasn't happened yet, even with the single can setup I had before
You don't shred two gearboxes in two years as I have done by pussy putzing around the track...
 

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Not so sure about blocking off the port above the tstat, that port is also used to return coolant flow through the engine and coolant tank when the tstat is closed...
At least that's how I see it, and how I used it.
You can see that in the pic above.
The heater core circuit you're referring to isn't needed for this, as the stat does this on its own. It acts as a 2 part valve. 1 part is the stat that we all know about. The other is that it opens a bypass valve when the stat is shut. The bypass allows for a small closed loop system in the head/block. There's no need to circ the fluid through the heater core like you're suggesting because of this. I believe the Toyota cars the motor was originally designed for actually had a shut-off valve in the heater circuit to increase AC efficiency, which I'd assume is the reason for this internal bypass...

...Didn't Viper or some other forum member write up a script about installing a heater core shut-off to help with our A/C? Again, the internal bypass that the stat controls helps keep the pump from cavitating from this mod.

-PV
 

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We'll see about the catch cans filling up, hasn't happened yet, even with the single can setup I had before
You don't shred two gearboxes in two years as I have done by pussy putzing around the track...
But you *can* shred the boxes in short order by shifting them hard and not rev-matching, etc... not questioning your lack of pussy putzing around the track! Just say'n: Some rip through boxes and are slow and some rip through boxes and are fast... Some are pretty easy on boxes too... :D
 

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The heater core circuit you're referring to isn't needed for this, as the stat does this on its own. It acts as a 2 part valve. 1 part is the stat that we all know about. The other is that it opens a bypass valve when the stat is shut. The bypass allows for a small closed loop system in the head/block. There's no need to circ the fluid through the heater core like you're suggesting because of this. I believe the Toyota cars the motor was originally designed for actually had a shut-off valve in the heater circuit to increase AC efficiency, which I'd assume is the reason for this internal bypass...

...Didn't Viper or some other forum member write up a script about installing a heater core shut-off to help with our A/C? Again, the internal bypass that the stat controls helps keep the pump from cavitating from this mod.

-PV
Right, that's what I'm talking about, that circ loop that you're talking about uses the port above the tstat.
It is also the port thats near the bleeder section of the stock coolant tank, and is ultimatly the line that should be cracked on the high side (if you've replaced the stock tank) to bleed the block.
At least that's what works for me, takes only a few minutes to bleed the block, done bam, works every time.

It's all well shown in the cooling section of the Lotus factory manual.

I'm not talking about the circ pump loop through the heater core, totatly seperate deelybob...
 

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that circ loop that you're talking about uses the port above the tstat.
Not right;) That's not the loop I'm talking about...

The lotus service manual is incomplete in this regard, as it does NOT mention the internal bypass that's *inside* the engine. It says a lot of things that aren't correct, and this just another. I've got 6 disassembled engines in the room next to me. The cooling passages are pretty easy to see.

When the stat is shut, it opens a bypass that's internal- part of the engine/head casting. Separate from the port above the stat you're talking about (and not on the lotus coolant diagram). When that valve is open (stat closed) it opens an internal passage way to the head/block. This is the same cavity that the pump is moving water too. It's short circuit. Coolant doesn't even *need* to leave the block. In the stock configuration, it DOES leave the block since it can, but it does *not* need to. In stock form it BOTH goes through your BP circuit you're describing and the internal BP circuit I'm describing. However, it doesn't NEED to leave the block and still circulate fluid while the engine warms. It only needs the internal circuit I'm descrbing-- -that's not in the diagram;) It just does what's in the diagram because Lotus elected to plumb it that way.

Only real reason to even have that internal BP is to be sure the stat opens timely by avoiding an air pocket on the back side of it and the internal BP does a plenty adequate job of this... As I mentioned, there are a lot of car running a VERY simple cooling system in this way with no BPs at all (other than the internal one that's only active with then stat is shut).

When you take your engine all apart, you'll see what I mean.


-PV
 

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Not right;) That's not the loop I'm talking about...

The lotus service manual is incomplete in this regard, as it does NOT mention the internal bypass that's *inside* the engine. It says a lot of things that aren't correct, and this just another. I've got 6 disassembled engines in the room next to me. The cooling passages are pretty easy to see.

When the stat is shut, it opens a bypass that's internal- part of the engine/head casting. Separate from the port above the stat you're talking about (and not on the lotus coolant diagram). When that valve is open (stat closed) it opens an internal passage way to the head/block. This is the same cavity that the pump is moving water too. It's short circuit. Coolant doesn't even *need* to leave the block. In the stock configuration, it DOES leave the block since it can, but it does *not* need to. In stock form it BOTH goes through your BP circuit you're describing and the internal BP circuit I'm describing. However, it doesn't NEED to leave the block and still circulate fluid while the engine warms. It only needs the internal circuit I'm descrbing-- -that's not in the diagram;) It just does what's in the diagram because Lotus elected to plumb it that way.

Only real reason to even have that internal BP is to be sure the stat opens timely by avoiding an air pocket on the back side of it and the internal BP does a plenty adequate job of this... As I mentioned, there are a lot of car running a VERY simple cooling system in this way with no BPs at all (other than the internal one that's only active with then stat is shut).

When you take your engine all apart, you'll see what I mean.


-PV
My motor's already back together so can't check this. Internal bypass, external bypass whatever, i don't care at this point.

I do know that what I have is very easy to bleed perfectly with no issues and the Radium coolant tank has all the connections it wants.
 

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My motor's already back together so can't check this. Internal bypass, external bypass whatever, i don't care at this point.

I do know that what I have is very easy to bleed perfectly with no issues and the Radium coolant tank has all the connections it wants.

Well I guess I stand corrected--- you won't see what I mean:D...yet;)... Check it out on your next motor. Hope you have better luck keeping the stock short block together with a sequential than Lotus does!:crazyeyes
 
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