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Discussion Starter #1
Here's an FYI on what I did to solve this issue.
I replaced the factory pads with Pagid blacks (RS-14's), which I love, however as a daily driver the fronts will squeal like mad when not up to temp.
So I took them out and used some high temp shim grease, no go...
So I took them out again, cleaned off that junk and tried the CRC red goo..., a little better, but still no go...

After hours of prowling the internet, I determined that I needed some shims (sure, did I peel of the factory shims before I tossed the pads??, nope...)
Anyway, being the impatient type that I am I made my own.
I got some 1/16" (.065") aluminum sheet from the hardware store, if they had stainless I would have gotten that, did I tell you how impatient that I am?
Then to the auto parts for high temp (copper) permatex silicone.
Pulled the pads again and cleaned off all the red goo...
I then cut four pieces of aluminum the size of the pads (I didn't bother tracing out for the mounting pins, I just cut the shim off below the retaining pin holes)
I applied some silicone to the back of the pad, spread it evenly then squished this a little in a vise so that shim was flat against back of the pad.
I let them set up for a good 10 minutes, then applied the high temp lube to the outside of the shim (the side that will now be against the caliper piston), and inserted them in the calipers.
After both sides were done, I depressed the brake pedal at medium pressure (car not running) to take up any remaining slack.
I let my little shims cure over night.

I gotta tell you, they work like a dream, squeal is all but gone. Only sound that remains is very very high pitched and only there under light pressure at a few MPH. I can live with that. Pedal feel is good, and the brakes work well. Went for some spirited driving, nothing caught fire, no brake fade. I'm a happy guy.

Notes on the install:
.065" is about the largest shim thickness that you can fit, If I had all the time in the world I would have ordered some in the .040 range.
Stainless is a better choice for this since it's heat conductivity is a lot less than that of aluminum.

I'm going to the track at the end of the month, so I'll let you know if I have any issues under those conditions.
 

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I would think that you would want high, rather than low conductivity.

Jerry
 

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Discussion Starter #3
From what I've been able to gather the prime contributor to fluid boiling is heat transfer from the pads to the piston to the fluid, but I'm not a mechanical engineer. So providing some kind of insulator between the two makes sense, but from a pratical standpoint I'm not sure if it makes a difference or not.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yes I am!
Looking forward to it!
 

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I think it was Doug Hayashi on NSXPrime that said "If your brakes don't squeak, You have girly man brakes" :)
 

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Titanium shims are very popular with the Vette guys to keep heat from transfering to the piston/fluid...that would be best.

Also, let's say your pads do get to 1000degrees or higher during some track day...will the silicone still hold the shim in place? My concern is that you didn't cut out a place for the retainind pins and that they may move later on.

Be good,
TomK
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well if they do come flying out, there's isn't much lost. I'll make another set with the retaining pin holes, or pony up the $80 bucks for the titanium ones...
 
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