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Discussion Starter #1
Since I painted my center console, my shift linkage is exposed. One of the ball joints for the cables, the upper one, is a bit wobbley. This would fatigue fail in a year or two. So I will tack weld it to avoid that issue. You can see why the whole deal can move side to side....and how to remedy this in a variety of ways.



 

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Discussion Starter #4
>>>Would this 'modification' affect the warranty?<<<

Sure it would affect the warranty.

Instead of waiting for it to snap off and then making a warranty claim, it will just keep on going indefinitely.
 

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Stan,

It is difficult to tell exactly, but replacing the ball joint with a hiem (spherical rod end) and adding a plate so as to put the rod end in double shear would appear to be the ultimate fix. It would eliminate all the torque motion on the ball portion.

Kiyoshi
 

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hey stan, after looking at it, is there a reason why the shifter is so long? I would think cutting it down an inch or two would greatly reduce the throw lengths (trigonometry and all). I don't see any reason to not have the shift knob 2" lower. Enlighten me...

-Steve
 

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Discussion Starter #8
>>>It is difficult to tell exactly, but replacing the ball joint with a hiem (spherical rod end) and adding a plate so as to put the rod end in double shear would appear to be the ultimate fix. It would eliminate all the torque motion on the ball portion. <<<

Yessiree that would be very nice indeed! The stock setup uses balls on studs that go through a hole on the stamped steel linkage whicht then get swaged in place. My upper cable's swage allows some wiggle at each shift. So fatigue failure will kill it off in the long run. Like bending a paper clip back and forth. I think you install new sockets by popping the old ones off so there must be some residual play with the OE approach nto be able to fit back over the balls. On the other end of the cables, apparently the Celica gt-s bronze bushings will drop in. It looks like the critical cable is the one for forward/backward movement.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
>>>hey stan, after looking at it, is there a reason why the shifter is so long? I would think cutting it down an inch or two would greatly reduce the throw lengths (trigonometry and all). I don't see any reason to not have the shift knob 2" lower. Enlighten me... <<<

Well not too far below the reverse lockout collar is the end of the cable that attaches to it. The other end of this cable leads to a rectangular bar you can see in the pic which prevents the linkage from left of the 1-2 area. This could be moved downward or elsewhere. You can try shifting the car with a shorter lever by just holding the lever further down. Since it is a cable setup, presumably you could raise the bottom up so that the shorter lever wound up in the same or similar hand position. That could affect the hand brake though.
 

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another good post stan....
do u think we can shorten the throw by changing the linkage??
or is shortening the stick the way to go here??
i usually like when they change the linkage.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
>>>another good post stan.... do u think we can shorten the throw by changing the linkage?? or is shortening the stick the way to go here?? i usually like when they change the linkage.<<<

Both appear to be doable. And the side to side flex you can see the console make with side to side lever movement or handbrake use can be vanquished.
 

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Ok, perhaps it's just me - but which cable handles lateral left-right shift motion and which one handles forward-back motions?

It appears that both cables will pull with forward-back motion...

Someone care to MSPaint over these pics to illustrate?

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Well the upper cable is directly attached to the shift cable...so it handles fore and aft motion.

The lower cable is actuated via a bell-crank on a pivot. It's actuated when the shift lever moves side to side. The shift lever itself is ball mounted at it's bottom end.

The rectangular steel bit is the reverse lockout which is cable operated. The nearby pin is what gets blocked by the rectangular piece.
 

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evomind said:
another good post stan....
do u think we can shorten the throw by changing the linkage??
or is shortening the stick the way to go here??
i usually like when they change the linkage.
An option to shorten the fore-aft throw might be to increase the length of the lever arm at the tranny. This would preserve the height of the shift lever, but will require more effort to shift (loss of mechanical advantage).

If I recall someone had posted some pixs of the cable attachments to the tranny. Might be worth a look.
 
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