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I am a fairly new Evora owner (2012 NA IPS) and am going to attempt my first oil change soon. I read the DIY in the sticky at the top, as well as watched probably every available youtube video. However, as the title states I am probably overthinking this, but wanted to get clarification on a few questions.

Ramps/wheel crib safety: I have seen it strongly recommended to use jack stands when under the vehicle, however, as some noted in the sticky, if using ramps this is not possible due to the very specific jack points. Does anyone have tips/recommendations around this? I was thinking about using wheel cribs in lieu of ramps and having a jack stand at the correct locations. Is that overkill, or the right amount of safety precautions?

Engine Oil: I know 5w-40 is the recommended spec and I have seen Shell Rotella T6 recommended. However, the only kind that I can find specifically states "Heavy Duty Diesel Engine Oil" I just want to make sure that is right before purchasing and potentially using the wrong kind. The term "Diesel Engine Oil" is throwing me off.

Finally, when filling the oil, whether on ramps or wheel cribs, the car is on a slope. How do you accurately determine the amount since it is not on a level surface?

Thanks in advance for helping the rookie. 馃嵒
 

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I see you are talking about the Evora. Anyways on my Elise, after I have drained the oil, I put in about 4.2 L (Canada) and then a day later I check the dipstick and then top it up some more, typically another 0.2 L.

Someone else with an Evora will probably chime in. You could measure the amount that you drain by pouring that into an empty oil jug. That would give you an idea.
 

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Ramps/wheel crib safety: I have seen it strongly recommended to use jack stands when under the vehicle, however, as some noted in the sticky, if using ramps this is not possible due to the very specific jack points. Does anyone have tips/recommendations around this? I was thinking about using wheel cribs in lieu of ramps and having a jack stand at the correct locations. Is that overkill, or the right amount of safety precautions?

Engine Oil: I know 5w-40 is the recommended spec and I have seen Shell Rotella T6 recommended. However, the only kind that I can find specifically states "Heavy Duty Diesel Engine Oil" I just want to make sure that is right before purchasing and potentially using the wrong kind. The term "Diesel Engine Oil" is throwing me off.

Finally, when filling the oil, whether on ramps or wheel cribs, the car is on a slope. How do you accurately determine the amount since it is not on a level surface?
1) Jack stands are for when using a jack. When using ramps, just lock the e-brake nice and tight.
2) Diesel oil tends to have different additives like zinc that work well for all motors. Not sure, but I'd guess there's some legislative reason why gas-engine oils don't use it.
3) You can always fill it last when the car is back on flat ground if you want. But I'd at least fill it halfway when still on the ramps to make sure there are not obviously leaks around the filter ro drain plug.
 

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No worries, you have this

Lifting with only 4 jack points is a bit troubling at first. Here is my favorite strategy for an oil change (since the tires can stay on, this works).

Place your jack at a designated rear jack point and jack up the entire side of the car. The front will come up too thanks to the weight being distributed to the rear. With one side of the car in the air, place a stand under the front jack point and a ramp under the rear tire. Lower gently. You have jacked one side. Repeat on the other side. The car is now safely on 2 stands and 2 ramps, nice and level. Perform your oil change. Reverse sequence to get it back down.

If you want belt and suspenders safety, you can add extra supports along the frame rails mid-car, just out of contact. Spare tires or more stands can work.

As for the oil, there are a number of good answers. I hear great words about Rotella, especially on this forum. It also seems a bit odd to me that it's optimized for diesel applications. Personally, I prefer Redline 5W40 (not 'euro series' which is actually for turbo engines). It is easy to find in the US and excellent. Added bonus, it comes in long neck bottles that make it easy to pour into an Evora.

Hope this helps, Cheers


added this picture:
1263981

The tire on the floor isn't holding the car, it's just a backup. There is a stand under each front jack point. It is just a bit visible.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
1) Jack stands are for when using a jack. When using ramps, just lock the e-brake nice and tight.
2) Diesel oil tends to have different additives like zinc that work well for all motors. Not sure, but I'd guess there's some legislative reason why gas-engine oils don't use it.
3) You can always fill it last when the car is back on flat ground if you want. But I'd at least fill it halfway when still on the ramps to make sure there are not obviously leaks around the filter ro drain plug.
Thanks!

As for the jack stand question my impression was it was a belt/suspenders approach in case the ramp failed. The jacks wouldn't be used to support the vehicle when using ramps, but as a backup CYA. Thanks for the response.
 

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Shell Rotella T6 is indeed a diesel oil. What makes it nice for us is the extra Zinc which protects our cams etc. Been using it or The Mobil 1 equivalent for well over a decade. At least this has been what the enginner types have supported for years. Lots of good oils out there. Nice thing is its readily available and can often be found on sale with filters. Again most are pretty darn good at this point short of Fram crap. It is a VERY easy job. That's what we are here for!
No one can yell at you when under the car! Also good excuse to have a few brews while letting it drain....hint:rolleyes:

Good ramps don't fail, just like good jacks or good jack stands. BTW ball cap must be backwards.
 

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Welcome, and good luck w/ the oil change. Aside from the altered lifting strategies compared to most vehicles, it's a rather simple task that almost anyone can accomplish.

If you get the T6, you may want to pick up one of these offset funnels. Makes refilling rather easy from the side of the vehicle vs reaching over the rear.
 

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1: Ramps are so much easier and I reckon safer too. Good ramps wont fail and the car is so light that [email protected] ramps probably wouldnt either.
2: Diesel oil concern is a good question. I have always wondered about this but have followed the recommendations for Mobil 1 5-40 Turbo Diesel Oil for both Elise and Evora. Diesel Oil general have extra Zinc which is good for bearings but bad for catalytic converters. It has a lot of detergents which is good for a dirty diesel cylinder bore but can be bad for a petrol engine (as it washes away the film). I theory and it probably makes zero difference.
3:Just look up how much you are supposed to put in there (its in the user book). Put it in when your on the ramps to check for leaks then top up after a drive. Its really not a big deal.
 

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I am a fairly new Evora owner (2012 NA IPS) and am going to attempt my first oil change soon. I read the DIY in the sticky at the top, as well as watched probably every available youtube video. However, as the title states I am probably overthinking this, but wanted to get clarification on a few questions.

Ramps/wheel crib safety: I have seen it strongly recommended to use jack stands when under the vehicle, however, as some noted in the sticky, if using ramps this is not possible due to the very specific jack points. Does anyone have tips/recommendations around this? I was thinking about using wheel cribs in lieu of ramps and having a jack stand at the correct locations. Is that overkill, or the right amount of safety precautions?

Engine Oil: I know 5w-40 is the recommended spec and I have seen Shell Rotella T6 recommended. However, the only kind that I can find specifically states "Heavy Duty Diesel Engine Oil" I just want to make sure that is right before purchasing and potentially using the wrong kind. The term "Diesel Engine Oil" is throwing me off.

Finally, when filling the oil, whether on ramps or wheel cribs, the car is on a slope. How do you accurately determine the amount since it is not on a level surface?

Thanks in advance for helping the rookie. 馃嵒
You're doing everything correctly. My first oil change took me 3 hours. I used ramps. Mobil 1 5-40 Diesel oil that mentioned and a Mobile 1 oil filter. Pretty simple, just time consuming. I have an MY14 Evora N/A, it required 6 qts of oil. I put 1 jug (5 qts.) in then measured, adding 1 more quart.
Oil and oil filter I bought from Walmart. Cheapest price I could find. Enjoy.
 

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2) Diesel oil tends to have different additives like zinc that work well for all motors. Not sure, but I'd guess there's some legislative reason why gas-engine oils don't use it.
Zinc bonds to the catalyst in the catalytic converter thus rendering it useless. ZDDP has been regulated out of gasoline engine oils due to excessive emissions when used.
 

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I am a fairly new Evora owner (2012 NA IPS) and am going to attempt my first oil change soon. I read the DIY in the sticky at the top, as well as watched probably every available youtube video. However, as the title states I am probably overthinking this, but wanted to get clarification on a few questions.

Ramps/wheel crib safety: I have seen it strongly recommended to use jack stands when under the vehicle, however, as some noted in the sticky, if using ramps this is not possible due to the very specific jack points. Does anyone have tips/recommendations around this? I was thinking about using wheel cribs in lieu of ramps and having a jack stand at the correct locations. Is that overkill, or the right amount of safety precautions?

Engine Oil: I know 5w-40 is the recommended spec and I have seen Shell Rotella T6 recommended. However, the only kind that I can find specifically states "Heavy Duty Diesel Engine Oil" I just want to make sure that is right before purchasing and potentially using the wrong kind. The term "Diesel Engine Oil" is throwing me off.

Finally, when filling the oil, whether on ramps or wheel cribs, the car is on a slope. How do you accurately determine the amount since it is not on a level surface?

Thanks in advance for helping the rookie. 馃嵒
Diesel vs auto oil......has been noted zinc (zddp) levels different and detergent additives different; may be other chemical differences also- when the zinc level decrease in auto oil was mandated, companies responded, adapted, and use different compounds to maintain protective abilities. The aggressive detergents in diesel oil concern me in a gas engine. With the knowledge, data and history of usage (some of which comes from racing application, a high stress engine/oil load), modern premium oils are up to the job. It is possible, but I am unaware of any manufacturer recommendation to use diesel oil in their gas engines.
 

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Diesel vs auto oil......has been noted zinc (zddp) levels different and detergent additives different; may be other chemical differences also- when the zinc level decrease in auto oil was mandated, companies responded, adapted, and use different compounds to maintain protective abilities. The aggressive detergents in diesel oil concern me in a gas engine. With the knowledge, data and history of usage (some of which comes from racing application, a high stress engine/oil load), modern premium oils are up to the job. It is possible, but I am unaware of any manufacturer recommendation to use diesel oil in their gas engines.
Very good points. What concerns me about using a diesel oil in a gas engine, specifically an Elise engine as is often recommended here, is that a diesel engine revs way lower than a Lotus engine. It is very rare to see a diesel engine rev anywhere near 6,000 rpms. The oils designed for these engines has no where near the shear stability that an oil designed for a gas engine needs. I would never, ever rev my Elise up to 8,000 rpm's if there was a diesel oil in the sump. I seriously doubt that the diesel oil's film will survive high reving.
 

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...you may want to pick up one of these offset funnels. Makes refilling rather easy from the side of the vehicle vs reaching over the rear.
I bought one of those funnels as well. Good investment if you are going to DIY oil change on an Evora. The oil fill cap is quite the reach and in a spot that makes it difficult to use a regular funnel.

One thing I always do when changing oil on any car is to start the car while it's still on stands/ramps and let it run for a minute. Watch the dash when it starts to make sure the oil pressure light goes out, then while it's running check for leaks around the filter housing and drain plug. If all looks good, shut it off, set it back down on the ground (so that the car is level), then recheck and adjust the oil level as needed.

Don't want to start an oil war, but without seeing some oil analysis reports for cars using diesel engine oil vs. cars using gas engine oil, I'm not sure I see the benefit. There are plenty of high quality gas engine oils out there made for high strung, high revving engines that give good results.
 
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I'm sticking with my oil engineer's insights from years ago. I'm sure you would be fine with NAPA oil...btw its Valvoline..use it in miata. After 9 yrs with my Elise, next owner pulled cover to inspect cam....was like new and I bounced off that rev limiter 100K times!!!
 

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I am a fairly new Evora owner (2012 NA IPS) and am going to attempt my first oil change soon. I read the DIY in the sticky at the top, as well as watched probably every available youtube video. However, as the title states I am probably overthinking this, but wanted to get clarification on a few questions.

Ramps/wheel crib safety: I have seen it strongly recommended to use jack stands when under the vehicle, however, as some noted in the sticky, if using ramps this is not possible due to the very specific jack points. Does anyone have tips/recommendations around this? I was thinking about using wheel cribs in lieu of ramps and having a jack stand at the correct locations. Is that overkill, or the right amount of safety precautions?

Engine Oil: I know 5w-40 is the recommended spec and I have seen Shell Rotella T6 recommended. However, the only kind that I can find specifically states "Heavy Duty Diesel Engine Oil" I just want to make sure that is right before purchasing and potentially using the wrong kind. The term "Diesel Engine Oil" is throwing me off.

Finally, when filling the oil, whether on ramps or wheel cribs, the car is on a slope. How do you accurately determine the amount since it is not on a level surface?

Thanks in advance for helping the rookie. 馃嵒
Our previous car was the same - had it for 7 years and 41K miles. I always used Mobile 1 - every 4K miles. Built my own ramps.

I made some ramps out of 戮" plywood, a 4'x8' sheet. The ramps are 1' wide by 1' tall. Simply drive on and an oil change is easy.

I made a center rib for strength plus braces as shown. I tested the ramps by driving the Astro Van on them - at over 4000 pounds, a good test.

I now use them for oil changes on the Evora, Hyundai, and Astro Van.

It is good to have another person watching while you slowly drive on.
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I am a fairly new Evora owner (2012 NA IPS) and am going to attempt my first oil change soon. I read the DIY in the sticky at the top, as well as watched probably every available youtube video. However, as the title states I am probably overthinking this, but wanted to get clarification on a few questions.

Ramps/wheel crib safety: I have seen it strongly recommended to use jack stands when under the vehicle, however, as some noted in the sticky, if using ramps this is not possible due to the very specific jack points. Does anyone have tips/recommendations around this? I was thinking about using wheel cribs in lieu of ramps and having a jack stand at the correct locations. Is that overkill, or the right amount of safety precautions?

Engine Oil: I know 5w-40 is the recommended spec and I have seen Shell Rotella T6 recommended. However, the only kind that I can find specifically states "Heavy Duty Diesel Engine Oil" I just want to make sure that is right before purchasing and potentially using the wrong kind. The term "Diesel Engine Oil" is throwing me off.

Finally, when filling the oil, whether on ramps or wheel cribs, the car is on a slope. How do you accurately determine the amount since it is not on a level surface?

Thanks in advance for helping the rookie. 馃嵒
I am a fairly new Evora owner (2012 NA IPS) and am going to attempt my first oil change soon. I read the DIY in the sticky at the top, as well as watched probably every available youtube video. However, as the title states I am probably overthinking this, but wanted to get clarification on a few questions.

Ramps/wheel crib safety: I have seen it strongly recommended to use jack stands when under the vehicle, however, as some noted in the sticky, if using ramps this is not possible due to the very specific jack points. Does anyone have tips/recommendations around this? I was thinking about using wheel cribs in lieu of ramps and having a jack stand at the correct locations. Is that overkill, or the right amount of safety precautions?

Engine Oil: I know 5w-40 is the recommended spec and I have seen Shell Rotella T6 recommended. However, the only kind that I can find specifically states "Heavy Duty Diesel Engine Oil" I just want to make sure that is right before purchasing and potentially using the wrong kind. The term "Diesel Engine Oil" is throwing me off.

Finally, when filling the oil, whether on ramps or wheel cribs, the car is on a slope. How do you accurately determine the amount since it is not on a level surface?

Thanks in advance for helping the rookie. 馃嵒

The manual states 6.1 liter capacity for the engine oil, which is about 6.4 US quarts. I use Mobil ! and have for many years. I wouldn't use a diesel formulated oil in a gas engine car, but what do I know? My first Lotus was a Europa Twincam. Rhino Ramps work great on the Evora for this. Safer than anything except being on the ground. Its easier than you think, but give a shout if you have questions.

Phil Mitchell
 

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Just FYI....my 2018 Evora 400 has an oil spec requirement of 0W-40. Did it change at a particular model year?
 

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Seems that the 400 vehicle data sheet shows 0W-40, and the S1 shows 5W-40. Not sure that difference matters a ton, but would afford the 400s a bit more cold start protection at the thinner viscosity.
 

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I am a fairly new Evora owner (2012 NA IPS) and am going to attempt my first oil change soon. I read the DIY in the sticky at the top, as well as watched probably every available youtube video. However, as the title states I am probably overthinking this, but wanted to get clarification on a few questions.

Ramps/wheel crib safety: I have seen it strongly recommended to use jack stands when under the vehicle, however, as some noted in the sticky, if using ramps this is not possible due to the very specific jack points. Does anyone have tips/recommendations around this? I was thinking about using wheel cribs in lieu of ramps and having a jack stand at the correct locations. Is that overkill, or the right amount of safety precautions?

Engine Oil: I know 5w-40 is the recommended spec and I have seen Shell Rotella T6 recommended. However, the only kind that I can find specifically states "Heavy Duty Diesel Engine Oil" I just want to make sure that is right before purchasing and potentially using the wrong kind. The term "Diesel Engine Oil" is throwing me off.

Finally, when filling the oil, whether on ramps or wheel cribs, the car is on a slope. How do you accurately determine the amount since it is not on a level surface?

Thanks in advance for helping the rookie. 馃嵒
I have two floor jacks, I place one on each jack place, I go back and forth jacking back side till I can fit my ramps under the tires, I also add a few 2x6x12's on the ramps to gain some height, I leave the floor jacks there with weight on them, I creeper under the car break loose all the 10mm bolts holding the pan on, then I take my cordless drill and zip them all out holding the pan up, I slide the pan out the back, now its just like a normal car, drain plug, and filter with a new "O" ring, reverse and you're done. I'm down to 1 1/2 hour, I take my time, I Love my car. every 3-4K miles. I put in 5 quarts while in the air, lower it to the ground, start it, recheck and top it off.
 
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