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Discussion Starter #1
Because of prolonged winter I've only been able to drive my "new" '05 Elise a couple of times, but already the alarm/immobilizer system drives me nuts. I have only one working key fob and the other replacement one refuses to be programmed.:wallbang:.

Worse yet, the instructions for the system read like something from a Monty Python routine. All of the uberthread posts I find on the subject are just further elaborations on the already crazy alarm system manual... More to the point, I have no need for the system at all, and I wish I could just rip it all out (although I'd be just as happy to disconnect it). Is there a way to do this? :shrug:
 

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PM TheViper for answers to your alarm questions.

If you want to try to program the 2nd fob again with my assistance, PM me and maybe we can get together over the phone next weekend and work through it.
 

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make sure your interior light is in the down position. That was my problem for the first year. I did have a fob go bad under warranty- I had to sync it everytime I went to use it.
 

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Simplest thing to do is program the immobilizer not to arm automatically (passive arming), then if you don't want to use the remotes, simply use the key to lock or unlock the doors.
Michael
Because of prolonged winter I've only been able to drive my "new" '05 Elise a couple of times, but already the alarm/immobilizer system drives me nuts. I have only one working key fob and the other replacement one refuses to be programmed.:wallbang:.

Worse yet, the instructions for the system read like something from a Monty Python routine. All of the uberthread posts I find on the subject are just further elaborations on the already crazy alarm system manual... More to the point, I have no need for the system at all, and I wish I could just rip it all out (although I'd be just as happy to disconnect it). Is there a way to do this? :shrug:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Simplest thing to do is program the immobilizer not to arm automatically (passive arming), then if you don't want to use the remotes, simply use the key to lock or unlock the doors.
Michael
I tried this, and never even locked the doors at all. After each start cycle it still switches back to the "active" mode. It's like some super cockroach that just won't die! :mad:
 

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If you really want to disconnect the system, you need to;
a) Pull the molex connector plug on the alarm.
b) Disconnect the immobilizer and connect the plugs 2 tops wires together & the 2 bottom wires together.
Michael

I tried this, and never even locked the doors at all. After each start cycle it still switches back to the "active" mode. It's like some super cockroach that just won't die! :mad:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
If you really want to disconnect the system, you need to;
a) Pull the molex connector plug on the alarm.
b) Disconnect the immobilizer and connect the plugs 2 tops wires together & the 2 bottom wires together.
Michael
Wow, it's really that simple? Would this make the car a key only proposition for locking and unlocking?

How difficult is it to access those wires?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Before I perform a cobraectomy, I'm going to re-try the new fob programming. First, I need to know if I am even using the correct PIN#.

Inside my owner's manual is a separate sheet titled: Cobra Car Alarms, Installation Confirmation Certificate. Near the upper right corner is a box titled "Cobra System" with a hand-written 4-digit number in the box. I assume that is my PIN? (below this is my car information and VIN)

The trouble we had was counting the flashes for the code. My first digit is 8, and it flashed eight times at about 1X per second...no problem. The second digit however is 1, and the second series of flashes occurs at a rate of about 6X per second, making it nearly impossible to respond quickly enough to confirm the number. It all went downhill from there...
 

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There's your problem, that number 8186 is the Cobra model number.
The PIN is on a tri-folded card the size of a credit card. It has a green stripe around 2 sides and says "Emergency Key Card". Inside, at the top it gives the PIN.
Michael

Before I perform a cobraectomy, I'm going to re-try the new fob programming. First, I need to know if I am even using the correct PIN#.

Inside my owner's manual is a separate sheet titled: Cobra Car Alarms, Installation Confirmation Certificate. Near the upper right corner is a box titled "Cobra System" with a hand-written 4-digit number in the box. I assume that is my PIN? (below this is my car information and VIN)

The trouble we had was counting the flashes for the code. My first digit is 8, and it flashed eight times at about 1X per second...no problem. The second digit however is 1, and the second series of flashes occurs at a rate of about 6X per second, making it nearly impossible to respond quickly enough to confirm the number. It all went downhill from there...
 

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Discussion Starter #11
There's your problem, that number 8186 is the Cobra model number.
The PIN is on a tri-folded card the size of a credit card. It has a green stripe around 2 sides and says "Emergency Key Card". Inside, at the top it gives the PIN.
Michael
Thanks Michael, now we're getting somewhere.

I don't find that card in any of my car's papers. I see a note on the original dealer's predelivery inspection that says, "Completed PDI, Note PIN code card missing". No subsequent records say anything about the PIN...

Here is one other possibility: I have a little green 3X5" "Maintenance Record" book, and written inside is the "Key No:". This is "L 5__4" ("L" plus a 4-digit numeric). Could this be my PIN?

Thanks for your patience! Todd
 

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You can do it completely. I think I have pics of the wires you must "defuse" on the module up to the right and under the dash...hang tight...
 

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I took the entire module out of the back and then disconnected the black/purple up front.

IMG_0279 - Copy.JPG

IMG_0285 - Copy.JPG

IMG_0283 - Copy.JPG
 

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Todd,
No that should refer to the door key I believe.
You need to get a dealer to fax a request to Lotus to get it. They need the alarm serial number and proof of ownership. The serial number is in two places, on the tri-fold card that you don't have and on the alarm module itself. Pull the right side dash access panel and it is hidden in there.
Michael
Thanks Michael, now we're getting somewhere.

I don't find that card in any of my car's papers. I see a note on the original dealer's predelivery inspection that says, "Completed PDI, Note PIN code card missing". No subsequent records say anything about the PIN...

Here is one other possibility: I have a little green 3X5" "Maintenance Record" book, and written inside is the "Key No:". This is "L 5__4" ("L" plus a 4-digit numeric). Could this be my PIN?

Thanks for your patience! Todd
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Todd,
No that should refer to the door key I believe.
You need to get a dealer to fax a request to Lotus to get it. They need the alarm serial number and proof of ownership. The serial number is in two places, on the tri-fold card that you don't have and on the alarm module itself. Pull the right side dash access panel and it is hidden in there.
Michael
Thanks Michael. You really know your Sh!%. Now, can you direct me to any diagrams or pics of what I'm looking for, and where that panel is? (I know, you're taking the hand of an idiot...)

Thanks, Todd
 

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Now, can you direct me to any diagrams or pics of what I'm looking for, and where that panel is?
Take a look at the far right (passenger) side of the dash below the face level vent. You will see a plain rectangular shaped panel with the storage area under it. If you look into the storage area you will see two screws holding the lower part of the panel in place. Remove those two screws and pull the lower part of the panel toward you while slipping the two tabs at the top of the panel out of the dash. Look inside the opening you just made and to the right where you will see the alarm module wrapped up in a plastic bag and there may be a bunch of foam around it as well. Once the bag and/or foam is out of the way you should be able to see the serial number on the module.
 

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OK, here is the location of the module, behind the rectangular black panel on the right side of the dash, its a mirror of the panel with the start button on the left side. To remove it you have to remove 2 screws accessible through the little cubby hole below it, then pull the tabs out at the top. Once removed, if you have the "touring"package, there will be a block of foam that you will have to remove. The module is wrapped in a plastic bag, that will have to be pulled back. The serial number is on the front of the module.
Be VERY carful, there are very sharp aluminum edges in there.
Michael
P.S. Dan beat me :)
 

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Be VERY carful, there are very sharp aluminum edges in there.
Great photo Michael!
Don't even think of sticking your hand in there until you cover the raw edges of the aluminum extrusion with a couple layers of duct tape or similar. If you don't, you won't even notice your hand is all cut up until you see the blood everywhere. :eek:
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Great photo Michael!
Don't even think of sticking your hand in there until you cover the raw edges of the aluminum extrusion with a couple layers of duct tape or similar. If you don't, you won't even notice your hand is all cut up until you see the blood everywhere. :eek:
Ouch! that sounds like the voice of experience! :eek:

Thanks you guys for everything! Michael, the pics are perfect.
 
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