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Discussion Starter #1
I was toying with the idea of plastidipping my wheels. I figure it's easy to remove if I don't like it and it's somewhat durable.

Anybody know how it will handle heat and brake dust? Would brake dust just cake on top and be difficult to remove because of the texture?
 

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I did it on my bmw wheels a while back and it actually held up great to snow/rain/etc.

And if you don't like it, it just peels off.

Here is the closest pic I have of them:

 

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Discussion Starter #3
Did you have any problems trying to clean brake dust off of them? That's my main concern haha
 

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Just did them on my buddys 11' SS Camaro. Turned out great for a Saturday afternoon project.
 

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I dipped my gas door, mirrors, and the painted parts of the interior door panels in my elise. It turned out great aside from having a few trial/error moments with tape. I also planned on doing my wheels. But, i might just powdercoat them instead. I dont see myself peeling it off to make them silver again. I like the black better.
 

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Can't hurt. Lots of people have done it.

Easy to reverse. Dirt cheap.

Go for it.

But use sparingly. I've seen people go overboard with the whole plasti-dip thing (as in the entire car). I did a few random bits on my Jeep and it's held up since August of last year through the Chicago weather changes.
 

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I did it to my wheels - I loved the black so much I got them powder coated.

A 5 layer spray "dip" lasted a good 6 months without issues - after that sections needed touching up.
 

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Few months no issues. Be sure to apply correctly (4-5 coats, First dust, 2-3 smooth even layers, last coat heavy ALMOST running)


 

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I'm thinking of doing some exterior panels, but I don't want to use a razor blade to trim. Can someone suggest a better way to trim plastidip without scratching the paint underneath?
 

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There is no need for a razor blade ever for PlastiDip.
How can that be? I'm thinking of painting my rear panel (bandit mask). There is no real edge where the line needs to be, so I must paint past the virtual line and manually cut a line...then peel away the access. How do I do this without some kind of blade???
 

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How can that be? I'm thinking of painting my rear panel (bandit mask). There is no real edge where the line needs to be, so I must paint past the virtual line and manually cut a line...then peel away the access. How do I do this without some kind of blade???
I am planning to do this. You will need to mask it off with tape. The key is that you need to remove the tape before it drys.

Don't use a knife!
 

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I am planning to do this. You will need to mask it off with tape. The key is that you need to remove the tape before it drys.

Don't use a knife!
This exactly. Get a good base spray down (should still be able to see the paint - barely speckle the plastidip on) and once that is good and dry - layer a nice thick (but spread evenly or else it will look chunky) coat ontop of the base layer and before it drys remove the tape and bam - perfect mask.
 

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This exactly. Get a good base spray down (should still be able to see the paint - barely speckle the plastidip on) and once that is good and dry - layer a nice thick (but spread evenly or else it will look chunky) coat ontop of the base layer and before it drys remove the tape and bam - perfect mask.
Trust him, he plastidipped a big chunk of the back of his car.
 

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This exactly. Get a good base spray down (should still be able to see the paint - barely speckle the plastidip on) and once that is good and dry - layer a nice thick (but spread evenly or else it will look chunky) coat ontop of the base layer and before it drys remove the tape and bam - perfect mask.
Do you have any tips? Usually you try to get 5 or more coats, but I don't think it is possible to do without it drying.

Does the initial light spray not peel off?

How easy does it come off the lettering?
 

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Awesome. Good tips. I did a rear valance on my gf's car and used a razor to trim. Only needed 3 coats though and it looks perfect. So I'll use the masking method on the lotus and see how it goes!
 
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