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Hello.
Today I cleaned off a bit of the rear fender that was dirty from transport.
I put some Maguires Polish on it and attempted to polish. Looks deeper red.
Good.
But I an still see swirls from days gone by being lit by flourescent lights.
What to you use on this boat bod??
Thanks.
 

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You're going to many and varied responses! If you have swirls you need to take the paint all the way back down. Since the car is new to you I would start there anyway. I use Zanio Brothers car show products. Look them up on the web.
 

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Less is Better
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Z-PC

http://www.zainostore.com/Merchant2...ode=Z-PC&Category_Code=Zaino&Product_Count=20

This is one of the most impressive polishes I've found. I have used this stuff to polish out wet sand marks after filling in rock chips and the results are EXCELLENT. Make sure to polish for a fairly long time as the polish particles break down to finer and finer pieces the more you use it. It's a polish, so you have to follow up with a sealer/wax. I'm not really even a Zaino fan, but this stuff is great.
 

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** The Enforcer **
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Just to clarify, Zaino isn't a wax, it's a polish. IMHO you should wash/clay the car with Dawn and start with Zaino AIO (all in one) as the base coat. Then use the Z-5 to fill swirl marks. When you're happy with the results you switch to Z-2 which has better optical properties. Use Z-6 or Z-8 between coats.

San
 

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Wingless Wonder
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^^ And if you can't find (or can't wait for) the Zaino products (which are excellent), buy some 3M Swirl Mark Remover (available at auto body supply or auto parts stores).

+++++++++

Flourescent lights are the worst for showing swirl marks BTW. Even if the finish doesn't look perfect in the garage, it will look great in the light of day.
 

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I happen to like the stuff from Griot's Garage (Car Care Products, Detailing Supplies, Auto Accessories - Griot's Garage 800-345-5789). They have all kinds of neat things to clean the car. It isn't the cheapest stuff but IMHO it is among the best stuff. For the leather go to Leatherique.com. For scratches and dings go to drcolorchip.com. The typical order of things is to wash the car thoroughly, rub it with a clay bar, polish it with the appropriate polish working your way from the coarsest necessary to the finest and then waxing. Next comes detailing which includes cleaning lenses, removing any bits of paste or wax, fixing scratches and dings, wiping the door jambs, cleaning the rubber seals, polishing the glass, and so on. GG has a good DVD on all of this.
David Teitelbaum
 

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If you do not have a buffer, pick one up and give it a shot on another vehicle to practice. You get much better results.

Each spring I go through the following process:
1. Clay bar
2. Meguirs swirl cut
3. Meguirs polish
4. Wax- I liked the meguirs tech 2.0 but this year I am going to try "Ammo" reflective creme paste.

I get great results without compounding or cutting the clear coat.

Jason
 

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I started using Zaino when I bought my Viper 13 yrs ago. The moron that owned it before me had no clue. It was black and had swirls and was a mess. I found out about Zaino from a Viper Forum and tried it. Did the whole Dawn dish soap, clay bar,various Z5 Z2 Z6 etc. It is amazing.

Tried the Griots, bought the polisher and used their products. They are ok but they are not Zaino. Even though I do it without a machine. Its just better.

Products are reasonably priced and the website is very informative. It clearly is the best product out there. The best part is the more you put on the better it looks, unlike wax (previous post mentioned its a polish not a wax) which gets hazy if you put on too much. I use it on everything I own, it is the best.
 

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I use 3M Imperial Hand Glaze. Ignoring the "Hand" part, I use a slow random orbital machine.

Do like 1Grand Blitz Wax for final wax. Don't want more than 2 steps....

Below site taught me to apply the Blitz with my hand. Body heat melts the wax and increases adhesion. It's surprisingly easy.

But, my cars are garaged. I would use different wax if they weren't.

For wash, it's P21S Conditioning Shampoo.

Drying, P21S Drying Towel. Highly absorbent. Drag across paint vs. scrubbing.



I always, and highly, recommend

Car Care Specialties - Quality Car Care Products

Many pages of instructions, including the best method for dealing with chips in paint.

Larry tests all his products.
 

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I use Adams premium car care products.

The scratch and swirl remover works wonders.
I do agree with everyone else . Get a buffer, clay bar, use the remover and polish,then wax or teflon treatment.

The comments I get at car shows usually follows along the lines of " I didnt know white could shine like that " :)

Here's the link to Adams.
Adam's Premium Car Care - Cleaners, Waxes and Polishes Made in the USA


Alan
 

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It is important to understand how the Lotus paint is different from the usual cars.

Obviously we all understand that the cars are fiberglass that is gel coated.

Then unlike most boats the gelc oat is painted. I believe Lotus used a 2 part base/color coat and then that was clear coated.

Most Esprit paint problems in the late 80's and up to later 90's cars are with the clear coat breaking down/separating from the color coat. Spot repairing the clear coat is extremely difficult.

Gel coat cracks often referred to as spiders also occur. These damage the three layers (gelcoat, paint, and clearcoat).

So many would suggest only using Clay and then wax on your first try. If that is not good enough, use a high quality polish, but use it infrequently. As a rule I would not compound unless you are repairing the paint.
Frequent polishing will gradually thin the clear coat.


Sun damage will also eventually destroy the clear coat, so shade and garages are your friend

Randy
 

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I have had success with Meguiars 205 on Lotus paint. The others mentioned here do a good enough job but they dont finish as well as 205. FYI I am a detailer so I am a bit biased to certain products but find what works for you.
 

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It is important to understand how the Lotus paint is different from the usual cars.

Obviously we all understand that the cars are fiberglass that is gel coated.

Then unlike most boats the gelc oat is painted. I believe Lotus used a 2 part base/color coat and then that was clear coated.

Most Esprit paint problems in the late 80's and up to later 90's cars are with the clear coat breaking down/separating from the color coat. Spot repairing the clear coat is extremely difficult.

Gel coat cracks often referred to as spiders also occur. These damage the three layers (gelcoat, paint, and clearcoat).

So many would suggest only using Clay and then wax on your first try. If that is not good enough, use a high quality polish, but use it infrequently. As a rule I would not compound unless you are repairing the paint.
Frequent polishing will gradually thin the clear coat.

Sun damage will also eventually destroy the clear coat, so shade and garages are your friend

Randy
I agree up to the point of using clay.

Here is what my guy says about that:


"Clay: Literally a plasticene/abrasive mixture used to smooth new paint and remove fresh paint overspray. This type of product must be used with lots of lubricant. The technique of using a clay is a learned skill. Use too little lubricant or get contaminants in the clay and you have moved into scratch city. This is one product that is the fast lane to trouble if not used with extreme care. I do not recommend frequent use of this type of product. You literally grind off a small amount of paint. It should be used as was intended, to grind off paint overspray or contaminants that may not be dissolved with a solvent."


I always go with the least aggressive approach when it comes to finishes. Clay did help with (my stupidly applied) overspray on wheels.
 

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** The Enforcer **
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I agree up to the point of using clay.

Here is what my guy says about that:


"Clay: Literally a plasticene/abrasive mixture used to smooth new paint and remove fresh paint overspray. This type of product must be used with lots of lubricant. The technique of using a clay is a learned skill. Use too little lubricant or get contaminants in the clay and you have moved into scratch city. This is one product that is the fast lane to trouble if not used with extreme care. I do not recommend frequent use of this type of product. You literally grind off a small amount of paint. It should be used as was intended, to grind off paint overspray or contaminants that may not be dissolved with a solvent."


I always go with the least aggressive approach when it comes to finishes. Clay did help with (my stupidly applied) overspray on wheels.
I'd find a new guy (or gal). Clay doesn't "grind off paint".

Clay isn't complicated. If you can't use a clay bar, you should probably pay someone (qualified) to detail your car.

San
 

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Ok - you'll learn that 'Car Detail Guys' are right up there on the 'dork-o-meter' with Dungeons and Dragons afficionados and 40 year old virgins! EVERYONE will have differing opinions. I'll let others chime in on wax/polish as I'm too lazy and outsource that to my buddy's great detailing shop. I'll just offer some experience with products I like:

- Matte Black Wheels/Car Trim/Tires - Adam's Polishes VRT (Vinyl Rubber Trim)
- Quick Detailer - Adams Detail Spray or Dodo Juice Red
- Quick Spray Paint Sealant - Wolfgang High Gloss
- No Rinse Wash - Optimimum No Rinse with Wax

And my FAVORITE product - Smart One waterless wash/wax. It's a spray on/wipe off wash/detailer. Creates a haze which you buff by hand with a microfiber cloth. Stuff is AMAZING. Smells great and makes your car SUPER smooth. And works absolute miracles on your glass!
 
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